So I read all about this bov and it seems great so I ordered one and it arrived quick. I installed it and now I'm having a issue. It seems that no matter where the adjustment screw is, it sounds and drives the same. I feel like I am doing something wrong and Idk what to do. What do I do? Any help would be appreciated.

Can you post a pic of your install? Also, how big is the vaccum line to the Bov?

Done a boost leak test lately? You might have some leaks which will affect your performance and the way the BOV sounds.

Ya mine flutters but im not too worried about the sound just as long as it doesn't leak. I would check for boost leaks and go from there.

I bought a ngr type s about 2 years ago. It had a nice crisp sound and didnt leak. Mine would only flutter very little if I shifted under 3k rpm.

I know it is installed right, I have done plenty of bov's but I can post a pic tomorrow. I did a boost leak test about 2 weeks ago and I have some pretty bad leaks but Idk where they all are. I know a small one at the biss and the hks bov I had was leaking terribly which is why I bought this one. It's not that I think it's leaking but shouldn't it flutter when it's all the way to hard. No matter where I put the adjustment screw it's the same. Right now it is all the way tight or at least I think it is, it's screwed in all the way until I hit something and I read that if I do it to tight I'll strip it so I didn't go any further.

DSMxJB said:

I know it is installed right, I have done plenty of bov's but I can post a pic tomorrow. I did a boost leak test about 2 weeks ago and I have some pretty bad leaks but Idk where they all are. I know a small one at the biss and the hks bov I had was leaking terribly which is why I bought this one. It's not that I think it's leaking but shouldn't it flutter when it's all the way to hard. No matter where I put the adjustment screw it's the same. Right now it is all the way tight or at least I think it is, it's screwed in all the way until I hit something and I read that if I do it to tight I'll strip it so I didn't go any further.

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thats why its fluttering back it all the way out. I never messed with my adjustment screw and it sounded great out of the box

nickk90 said:

thats why its fluttering back it all the way out. I never messed with my adjustment screw and it sounded great out of the box

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It's not fluttering. That's the problem. I feel like the adjustment screw does nothing. Whether it be backed out or turned in it sounds and feels the same so I can't adjust it and Idk where to put it.

Do the single spring mod. I did it to mine. Zero flutter. Light whistle on easy shifts, and more of a quick whoosh on harder pulls. But depending on how much boost you run you might not want to do it. Mine started leaking around 18psi, with the small sping and adjustment screw at about half. But its fine for me since im only on stock boost right now.

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Lol oh Jimmie. Okay guys I think you all might have a hard time understanding what he's trying to explain. I'll do my best to explain since I met up with him today. Basically, he wants to tighten it to the point where he can hear the flutter. This way, he knows exactly from there how much to loosen it so he can eliminate that flutter. This would serve him as a good reference point. Regardless of how much he tightened the dang thing (all the way), it still doesn't flutter which makes us think that maybe it's still way too lose or something. Does this make sense? Hope I helped bro . I don't know how else to really explain.

If it's not flutering whats the problem? Now do a BLT and see if it leaks.

The fact that it's not fluttering is the problem . I guess I didn't do too well of a job at explaining. He want's it to flutter so that he knows exactly how much to back it off to make the flutter go away. He's tightened the thing all the way and it sounds exactly the same. So we can't tell if it's even hard or soft because it's been soft regardless of how much he tightened the bolt on top (which he tightened all the way). Does this make more sense?

ishnish said:

The fact that it's not fluttering is the problem . I guess I didn't do too well of a job at explaining. He want's it to flutter so that he knows exactly how much to back it off to make the flutter go away. He's tightened the thing all the way and it sounds exactly the same. So we can't tell if it's even hard or soft because it's been soft regardless of how much he tightened the bolt on top (which he tightened all the way). Does this make more sense?

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It makes sense but you are better off just setting it and testing for boost leaks, since you have no flutter, now just test for leaks. If the bov is holding fine and you have no other leaks, then you are set.

Why try to create the flutter if you want to get rid of it. I suggest the OP check for boost leaks. Fix all boost leaks he can possibe fix and then go from there. You would be surprised what a few new gaskets, zip ties, new vaccum lines and some RTV sealant will do for your cars performance.

Also how much psi is he testing the BOV for flutter?

I understand what you mean. Your trying to get it to flutter for a starting point to fine adjust it. What sound is your bov making then if its not fluttering? If its not a type s sound or a fluttering sound, do you think its compressor surge?
I've been through a few bov's. I had a ssqv before and my car would only compressor surge. I took it off and swapped bov's and hooked the ssqv straight up to a vaccum source to test it. I found out that the valve wasnt opening at all. I took it back and got a new one and it worked fine.

I know that this is a hard concept to grasp but I want to make it flutter so that I know it is adjusting. I feel like the adjustment screw does nothing and it is stuck all the way loose. I am planning on getting link,fuel, and a 16g within the next 6 months and I want to make sure that the bov is going to adjust to the higher boost levels. I'm running 10psi right now on my t25 and it had no problem opening the bov on the hardest setting. That worries me because from what I've read it should flutter if it is tight. It's a faint sound like the greddy I can only hear it if I let off from under 5psi. If I build full boost I don't hear anything. I vented it to see if I could hear it then and it was loud but it wasn't the greddy sound just a whooosshhh. It's definitely not surge, I also had that with my ssqv3. I will do a boost leak test on Wednesday when I am off. I don't know how to explain it any differently than me and ishnish explained it.

Easy to move the plunger with your hands compared to another BOV? Opened it to verify the diaphragm isn't FUBAR?

I didn't try to move it with my hands I have not opened it either. Is the adjustment screw supposed to be hard to turn?

My adjustment screw was easy to turn. When I ran the ngr type s my car was stock except for intake and exhaust. I actaully had to have mine almost adjusted all the way out to make that famous type s sound and it didn't leak. Like LandoAWD said, open it up and check the diaphram.

Okay, so I don't even want to post this because I feel so dumb but I figure everyone should know there was nothing wrong with the bov. I was only tightening it hand tight and was afraid to go any tighter because I read about stripping the screw(also didn't see the allen hole) so I tightened it with a allen and it works perfect. I do have a leak at the flange but I'm going to get some rtv soon so maybe that will help. It is adjusted good now though sounds and works great I am very happy with it. Sorry to waste everyone's time.