The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i had a similar problem out here in arizona and it turned out my radiator wasnt getting enough air because of the FMIC...so i got the ETS street intercooler and pretty much fixed the problem...the thing thats weird is that its fine in traffic and hot on highway speeds...should be the opposite.
 
I would check the thermastat, it may only partialy opening.

It would allow enough coolent flow at low speeds, but not enough when on the hiway
 
It is actually my car that he is talking about. I didn't know how to post videos so he made this thread for me. When the car is cold, I still see air bubbles floating up. It's not shooting out like in the video, but they are still there.
 
Do a coolent pressure test and see if the coolent system is holding pressure.
 
I did a few weeks back. I was told to test it at the pressure that my cap was rated at. So I tested it to 13 psi and it held fine. Also as stated above, it passed the leak down test and compression test. I'm replacing the thermostat with a new 170 degrees, but was thinking that maybe I need to burp the system the proper way and see if that helps.
 
I had a similar problem a few months back. All of the mods in my profile are recent, and before them the car ran - dare I say - perfect. I would drive it cross-country. Then put the turbo, manifold, radiator, fmic, etc on and my coolant temps would go as high as 240! Everyone was telling me it is the head gasket, and I disagreed as before the mods the car was fine, and even today I am still at 12psi trying to get everything tuned. So it wasn't like I beat the piss out of it and blew the gasket overnight.

Anyways, it turned out to be the slim fans I installed with my new radiator. I got the Punishment Racing radiator and fan kit. I purchased the FAL dual shrouded fan (first they sold for a 1g), put it on, and now at idle my temps are 160-190 deg and cruising, even during a 3rd gear WOT pull, don't go above 206 deg. I also have an adjustable fan controller from Advanced Auto and run Water Wetter.

Anyways, burp it (I found a lot of air in my system by doing this), try water wetter, maybe look into a better fan, adj controller, or even try adding shrouding around the front bumper to the radiator to ensure that it is getting air flow.

Let us know how it turns out!
 
Ok guys I burped the system today. I turned the heater on and topped off the coolant and started the car and let it run with the cap off. The bubbles started coming and slowly started to disappear. It got to the point where the bubbles coming out where barely recognizable but thats the best it got. Does it usually take multiple times to completely clear the system of all the air, or is something not right?
 
I have added a 3rd fan on the front side as a pusher fan. Wire is so i can controll when it is on or off. Fixed my problems. Notice it always once the FMIC gets installed.

Drive around a few days with no bumper. See if that helps. If so its an Airflow problem.
 
Ok. I changed out the thermastat to a 170* and burped the system and no more cooling issues. Problem solved. Thanks for the help guys.
 
Hey Tuners,

I've just started this problem. I'm overheating at idle and cruise, and now the blower motor isn't blowing any hot air into the cabin (it works, just no heat).

I've recently replaced the tbelt, w/pump within the last year but I have a feeling the thermostat is crapping out. The rad itself is also relatively new. So I can't point my finger at it, along with the cooling fan(working/newish).

Any ideas of where to start looking?

Rad cap doesn't show any signs of leaking.

Please refer to my profile for my mod list.

Thanks guys,

-DOHCTA
 
Thermostats usually get stuck open, sounds like a clog in the system to me. Possibly the heater core since you don't have heat. If you feel the inlet/outlet pipes on it is one hot and one really cold?

Joel
 
Usually if your heater core goes bad you will have some evidence of antifreeze on the floor. Sounds to me ike the thermostat is stuck closed and not allowing the coolant to cycle throuht he heater core. Let the car warm up to opperating temps. and check to see if both of your radiator hoses or soft and allowing coolant t pass through. Are you could just replace it for like 10 dollars...and don't forget to bleed you coolant system!!!
 
My brother was pulling my 95 Eclipse GS out of my drive way for the first time. I park the car in gear because my ebrake is iffy. my brother starts the car and with the foot on the clutch (obviously) and a foot on the brake (BUT ON ACCIDENTLY ALSO WAS PRESSING THE GAS)

Once the car started the car revved up real fast we went forwards about 5 feet and then stopped. I was really pissed it scared the shit out of me. He popped the clutch. we took it around the block a few times and i smelled burning oil. We popped the hood and the oil was burning on my exhaust downpipe smoke everywhere. I looked underneath the car and oil was leaking out about as fast as if someone busted your nose open. there is no oil in the car anymore , so i wont be driving it ill tow it to a shop.. the oil seemed to be coming from the trans area, but really i dont know where it came from.. can anyone give me a clue of what ####ed up so bad that oil was absolutely spilling out of my engine and a price ill probably be looking at.. thanks..
 
did you get under the car and see where it's coming from? what color was it? black/brown is motor oil red is tranny oil.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top