So about 4ish months ago maybe a little longer I noticed abit of blue smoke when I pulled my car out the garage. And i was a little worried but then it went when i drove it and has only done it a few times since, mainly at idle and taking it out the garage if its stopped for a bit. Last Thursday I had to have an MOT this is a UK inspection every year and this year it failed on emissions by 0.2 I'm not sure on what part of the emissions it was but it failed! It's still got a cat and my profile is upto date if you need to look at mods. I'm just thinking its blocked the cat up a little but I'm going to replace the seals soon anyway and just get it to pass this year by cleaning the cat a little bit to help.

The cars done 141k and really only gets driven on the weekends, now I've done aload of research and I'm 100% sure its them! As it only does it after sitting and not while driving or under load. I had done a compression test in summer this year and they seemed good. (I can't remember off the top of my head but I think around 170-175 across the board) and only went up a little with a wet test, warmed engine of course

So being this would be the first time I'm doing this I need to know what I need and what special tools I need. The list I've got is as follows.

Timing and balance belt inc water pump and tensioner/pulleys. Wanted bse kit but I'm not taking the shaft out so I can't so I've read!
Supertech valve stems.
Gsc 3mm lifters.
Ferrera valve locks. do I need to replace them???
Valve cover gasket kit.
Cam cap seal??? I don't know about this so need advice.
Fluidamper crank pully with Arp crank bolt just because its old.
Jay racing timing belt kit.
A spring compressor.

Do i need to lube it all up when re-installing with assembly lube or is oil ok as lube? And if i do use special lube do i have to change my oil soon after so its not contaminated?


I know this has been talked about loads of times but the minor answers I've not found and has not been stated so it helps to get all the info now so i can order every part I need. So if i have missed an item I need to buy or something I don't need then please let me know but I'd rather change what i can and do the work now then do it in the near future if you know what i mean as I keep the maintenance at the top of my list.

Sorry for the super long post and i hope some people can help.

Thanks bobby

My valve stem seals are shot too and were on my to-do list to replace. But it wasn't until my balance shaft belt snapped and took out my crank position sensor am I now finally getting around to it.

I got VERY lucky it didn't touch my timing belt, so if you're already going to be tackling all this maintenance, PLEASE do yourself a favor and get the BSE kit.

I'm in the middle of doing my timing belt, BSE, water pump, ARP headstuds, and all new gaskets from the head up.

No you will not need to replace the valve locks, unless there is damage or wear on the lock or the bead of the lock.

Any viton "blue" valve stem seals will be fine.

Oil for assembly will be just fine.

I can believe that afyer 141k miles and 13 years the Valve stem seals have gotten a bit hard.

BogusSVO said:

No you will not need to replace the valve locks, unless there is damage or wear on the lock or the bead of the lock.

Any viton "blue" valve stem seals will be fine.

Oil for assembly will be just fine.

I can believe that afyer 141k miles and 13 years the Valve stem seals have gotten a bit hard.

Click to expand...

Yeah I read Bout the viton ones Supertech but don't the exhaust only come in blue? At least that's what the pictures look like.

As to the valve locks for the sake of 80 bucks should I just get upgraded ones that are stronger and coated? As I'm not bothered about cost I just want it done and i want it done better then Oem Haha.

Jaxness said:

My valve stem seals are shot too and were on my to-do list to replace. But it wasn't until my balance shaft belt snapped and took out my crank position sensor am I now finally getting around to it.

I got VERY lucky it didn't touch my timing belt, so if you're already going to be tackling all this maintenance, PLEASE do yourself a favor and get the BSE kit.

I'm in the middle of doing my timing belt, BSE, water pump, ARP headstuds, and all new gaskets from the head up.

Click to expand...

Ouch well that's lucky for you it didn't hurt anything else! But i guess that's what happens if you ignore it though.I'm not about to ignore it. I thought you had to take the whole shaft out for the BSE kit?? Am I wrong! I might need to do a little research on this.

I was going to replace it with a Hks timing belt anyway so it would be stronger and a little safer but not against a stone or anything I guess.

Your old retainer locks are fine. My 92 Talon with BC spring/retainer upgrade using the original locks held up to 9200 rpm just fine.

Like it was said, oil is fine to use when installing, and it sounds like you've got a good list of the rest for preventative maintenance.




BOSS David
Tacoma, WA
92 Tsi 635hp - stock bottom; receiving another winter shop build.
95 Tsi - daily bruiser
91 GSX - for sale

Sent from my iPhone

BTW the cam cap seal can be reused.


BOSS David
Tacoma, WA
92 Tsi 635hp - stock bottom; receiving another winter shop build.
95 Tsi - daily bruiser
91 GSX - for sale

Sent from my iPhone

Kid4g63 said:

BTW the cam cap seal can be reused.


BOSS David
Tacoma, WA
92 Tsi 635hp - stock bottom; receiving another winter shop build.
95 Tsi - daily bruiser
91 GSX - for sale

Sent from my iPhone

Click to expand...

Ok I guess that's good to know I've not searched how much they are so if there not a lot I might just replace them and leave the locks then. Do I need a gasket if I do the balance belt? As i have to take something off to get to the balance belt is this correct?

Thanks for the help

If you have stock spring/retainers/cams stock locks will be just fine.

Sounds like supertech may be seelling split sets of seals, all the seals I buy for A 4G63 are a brite blue color and work as well on intake and exhaust.

St may be giving a lower temp seal for the intake to help reduce cost.

Oh well I want them all blue viton so i shall make sure before I order the set. Yup stock head so i guess I'll keep the locks then. I did consider kelford cams but I've not got anything to surport them so I'm not going to do it.

Do you know if i need another gasket or something as I have to take something off to get to the balance belt correct? I can't find any info on this part.

For the BS towards the firewall, you have to remove the front case/oil pump so you will need that gasket.

BogusSVO said:

For the BS towards the firewall, you have to remove the front case/oil pump so you will need that gasket.

Click to expand...

But if I'm doing just the normal service of belts do i still need this gasket atall? Sorry for being such a silly question.

With all you are doing you may as well do the "3/4" BSE
Remove the belt to the front BSE and just let the front shaft "go for the ride"
And do the rest of the BSE at the rear shaft.

BogusSVO said:

With all you are doing you may as well do the "3/4" BSE
Remove the belt to the front BSE and just let the front shaft "go for the ride"
And do the rest of the BSE at the rear shaft.

Click to expand...

Is this safe to do and don't cause excessive oil pressure?

There are "fies" for the high oil pressure, porting the OFH is one.

But you will still be letting oil pressure off by not flipping the bearings in the front shaft.

Look into it, its a common mod done to the engine.

Yeah I've read a lot on it and see it a lot. I'm not new to engines but I'm new to building and rebuilding them so I'm learning as i go along. But I'm confident in my work as i work on other cars installing turbos and superchargers and many other items. Rebuilding is something new to me and i will get there but i like to have someone with me while doing it.

I might find someone local who knows about these more and get them to help. Thanks again for all your help.