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God, doesn't anyone know what's wrong???

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Blk93tsi

10+ Year Contributor
50
0
Oct 29, 2011
Leola, Pennsylvania
I have checked for fuel,spark and timing and compression was good, there all good. Car cranks starts 1 sec later shuts off. It's trying to start!! She wants to but cant. I 2nd guessed my results so I took it to the garage.. To have them do all the tests. Well, the got the same results! So I paid $150 for nothing but a 2nd opinion.

I can only think of 2 things:
1.) Ecu "no visible evidence on that" took it apart
2.) gm maf wit translator

Also some one out there has to know the setting for these!! I don't want full throttle site... Id like stock injector set up. 450cc. Example
"aux__,then the 4 switches up or down?, MAF base___wot___. SPARK base__ wot___

Please help me!!!!!

Thanks Robert
 
I have checked for fuel,spark and timing and compression was good, there all good. Car cranks starts 1 sec later shuts off. It's trying to start!! She wants to but cant. I 2nd guessed my results so I took it to the garage.. To have them do all the tests. Well, the got the same results! So I paid $150 for nothing but a 2nd opinion.

I can only think of 2 things:
1.) Ecu "no visible evidence on that" took it apart
2.) gm maf wit translator

Also some one out there has to know the setting for these!! I don't want full throttle site... Id like stock injector set up. 450cc. Example
"aux__,then the 4 switches up or down?, MAF base___wot___. SPARK base__ wot___

Please help me!!!!!

Thanks Robert
Have you check for any boost leaks..?
 
Uh, for stock injectors your MAFT shouldn't need to compensate for anything, so they should all be zero'd. As for Fuel, Spark, and "all other things checked", have you been able to determine the condition of the engine at all? Have you looked into compression and timing?

What are your current settings on your MAFT? It sounds like the ECU is seeing too much air and is pulling fuel, or vice-versa..kind of like the settings on a certain -tuning- solution is incorrect.
 
Check the engine coolant temp sensor and wiring. When I rebuilt my motor I got it all put back together but could not get it to start and stay running. I changed out the gas, fuses, fuel filter, plugs, and plug wires. Finally I plugged it into the logger and it was showing that the ECT was -74 degrees. I used some resistors shoved into the connector and fooled the ecu into thinking the ECT was 80 degrees and it fired up and ran. Changed out the sensor and have not had the problem since. Throw a logger on it so you can make sure everything is as it should be.
 
I checked for vac leaks I couldn't find any. Gm maf is set. Aux=0 off,off,on,off, base=2 450cc injec, idle,mid and wot are zero. That's how it's supposed to be. NOTHING. Where is that sensor and can u give me a bypass write up? Or what u did?
 
Check the engine coolant temp sensor and wiring. When I rebuilt my motor I got it all put back together but could not get it to start and stay running. I changed out the gas, fuses, fuel filter, plugs, and plug wires. Finally I plugged it into the logger and it was showing that the ECT was -74 degrees. I used some resistors shoved into the connector and fooled the ecu into thinking the ECT was 80 degrees and it fired up and ran. Changed out the sensor and have not had the problem since. Throw a logger on it so you can make sure everything is as it should be.

Do this.
 
You could also check to see if your CAS is 180 out - it will have interesting results if it is, sometimes enough to keep the car from running.

ECU issues can also be stealthy - if you can get your hands on another and swap it in that is a worthwhile test to do.
 
Have you looked at your IAC? When mine crapped out, my car would not run, it would crank and crank, maybe cough and idle for a second and die. I would test it per the hainse manual and see if it is bad, FWIW.
 
Check the voltage at ecu pin 56. This is the portion of the ecu that activates the fuel pump when the car has started. The voltage should go down to about 0V when the car has started. Otherwise it should be 12V when the car is ON but not started. If it stays at 12V all the time, the ecu will need to be rebuilt or replaced.
 
Uh, for stock injectors your MAFT shouldn't need to compensate for anything, so they should all be zero'd. As for Fuel, Spark, and "all other things checked", have you been able to determine the condition of the engine at all? Have you looked into compression and timing?

What are your current settings on your MAFT? It sounds like the ECU is seeing too much air and is pulling fuel, or vice-versa..kind of like the settings on a certain -tuning- solution is incorrect.

Zero'd out for a 1g with 450's is aux 0 base 2, and the rest at zero. The dip switches need to be set for the maf you are using also.
 
I'm trying to answer all questions please work with me:
Cas 180 what does that mean? How do I do that?
Pin 56# where is that located? Big middle or small Ecu plug?
Iac?
You guys gotta stop abbreviating things LOL NEWBIE FORUM
TUNRABLE COMPUTER is the maf translator
Check engine light looks odd...like...
_____
(000000) looks something like that
---------

Also my rad is after market and don't have fans hooked up yet
 
Found pin car is on position with key, pin reads 0 12 volt tester isn't turning the light in my meter on. So Ecu is good?
 
If English is your first language, please start posting more legibly.
 
I didn't understand that, but you really need a multimeter for this test. They're pretty cheap if you don't have one already.
 
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Edit: I think he meant "German is, dick." See why punctuation is important, kiddos?

Let the warnings commence! :trumpets sound:
 
Ich uberprufte stift #56 wenn der autoschlussel zum anfang gedreht wird, der belichtungsmesser 12v einschalte nicht. Damit durchschnitte der Ecu fein ist?

Ok, I still don't know what you are asking about the 12v you see (or don't see) at pin 56 with the key on. (See Bert's statement in post #10).

And please... don't be a smart-ass and post in German. This is an English site.
 
I'm not trolling, I have 12v screwdriver light meter, I turned the car to the start position and tested #56 pin. The light didn't turn on so I'm assuming it's fine.
 
I'm not trolling, I have 12v screwdriver light meter, I turned the car to the start position and tested #56 pin. The light didn't turn on so I'm assuming it's fine.

Did you read this post?

Check the voltage at ecu pin 56. This is the portion of the ecu that activates the fuel pump when the car has started. The voltage should go down to about 0V when the car has started. Otherwise it should be 12V when the car is ON but not started. If it stays at 12V all the time, the ecu will need to be rebuilt or replaced.
 
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