Is the stock temp. gauge going beyond mid range? if it is let the engine cool off and check your coolant level. need more information on where the oil leak appears to be coming from to really make a suggestion on where to begin searching.

hey guys, thx for being helpful. heres a little more info. as i said i just bought the car. this is all i know!!

The previous owner told me he had just done a radiator swap.

the temperature gauge stays in the middle even just after car started (which leads me to believe thermostat is broke)

i havent been under the car yet but i took a look just from laying down and everything under the motor was soaked in oil (but not leaking so fast it was dripping) although there was a puddle under my car after i moved it

the coolant is topped off, i did that my self.

Edit: after just a few miles of driving headers are super hot and so is basically everything else! underhood temps are just to warm for comfort and u get that smell of something burning. I was driving in rain today and my hood was so warm that the rain was steaming off of it.. Scary.

if the temperature gauge is reading mid range right after starting the car that wouldn't be your thermostat. your thermostat is mechanical and opens and closes due to your coolant temperature it doesn't send a reading to the temperature gauge. Is your CEL light on?

numbertwelve said:

if the temperature gauge is reading mid range right after starting the car that wouldn't be your thermostat. your thermostat is mechanical and opens and closes due to your coolant temperature it doesn't send a reading to the temperature gauge. Is your CEL light on?

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No it isnt on.

xXEclipse said:

Head gasket even thought the oil is leaking externally??

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It happened to me. Ran right down the back of the block.

Another place for oil to shoot out would be the oil sending unit/sensor. It's placed on the back side of the block, It's easier to get at from underneath.

I made my assumption a little early yesterday, sorry everyone.

okay.. so no ones really helping.. What can i do to prevent overheating or help keep my car cool until i have cash to have a mechanic look at it. this is my only car and its daily driven i cant have it heating up after only driving a few miles

pandaswag said:

okay.. so no ones really helping.. What can i do to prevent overheating or help keep my car cool until i have cash to have a mechanic look at it. this is my only car and its daily driven i cant have it heating up after only driving a few miles

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Defrost, and blast the heater if the gauge is reading above normal. Use the heater, open the windows and crank it up

Defrost setting will turn the A/C fan on. Sorry if this isn't what your asking for.

okay so i took a few minutes to look for oil, what i found is that i think the back side of the valve cover seems to be where oil is leaking from thats the highest point and its all wet with oil

Then replace the Valve cover gasket, simple enough job with few tools involved.. you can do this yourself.

As far as your temp gauge, it could be the gauge or the sendor, I would replace the temp sensor first and see if the gauge looks better to you.

As far as the stem from the rain and high underhood temps, not much can be done there, you can get some headder wrap and wrap the header, or go back to a cast iron exhaust manifold.

A tubular headder will let more of the exhaust heat pass thu it, that allows under hood temps to rise faster than a cast iron manifold.

Your asking what to do to keep it cool, but the bottom line is if its overheating you shouldn't be driving it.. If its a serious problem your probably only going to make it worse

Based on what you said....

Oil leak is from valve cover, either you need to replace your valve cover gasket or you valve cover has a crack. You need to take off the valve cover either way and inspect it. Easy job

If your dash temp gauge is reading in the middle no matter what either your coolant temp sensor is bad or the gauge itself, most likely the coolant temp sensor.

As far as tips for keeping under the hood temps cool, get your stock heat shield back on and defrost + heater as previously stated. Flush coolant and an oil change after repairing and your chrysler should be fine

most def headgasket, i had same symptoms

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/419113-another-overheating-thread.html

actually just did the compression test this morning. good luck

hey folks, yes sir, if you told a doctor that u had a runny nose, and a cough he would make the most practical medical assesment wich would be a common cold, SO. like every one else, think's the head gasket might be an issue also due to the fact that you dont know what conditions the vehicle was put under, so it is an educated assesment,....but to cover diffrent aspect's. . start with fuses / wires/ check the thermometer, it's common to install the wrong one. ..But if your header's are on fire, then shield wont cure her, back to the gasket.. start with what you see, clean her up , then make sure you stop that leak,.

miliman13 said:

hey folks, yes sir, if you told a doctor that u had a runny nose, and a cough he would make the most practical medical assesment wich would be a common cold, SO. like every one else, think's the head gasket might be an issue also due to the fact that you dont know what conditions the vehicle was put under, so it is an educated assesment,....but to cover diffrent aspect's. . start with fuses / wires/ check the thermometer, it's common to install the wrong one. ..But if your header's are on fire, then shield wont cure her, back to the gasket.. start with what you see, clean her up , then make sure you stop that leak,.

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umm where would one find this thermometer?

the exhaust being hot is most likely from the headgasket pushing coolant causing it to run lean, which in turn raises egt's

Are you basing the overheating from just opening the hood and it being hot? or do you have a temperature reading of some sort?

It is normal for the headers to get hot like that. First thing that you have to do is stop driving the car and find out what the problem is. Because if you keep driving it and overheating it you can get major engine problems.( warp head, melted piston/rings, valve problems etc...). What i would do first is visualy check and see if there is any coolant leaks. If its not coolant check the fans. If everything seems fine check the voltage to the fan, its relay, connector etc....

If the fan is fine and you didnt find any coolant leaks check the compression. You can get a compression tester from advance auto parts. Check the thermostat maybe it stock closed, see if the water pump has any noise from it cause that could be a problem.

If you have a much lower compression on one of the cylinders you might have a blown head gasket. The usual symptoms are white/blue smoke, overheating, oil mixing with water, loss of power, car hard to start, milky oil, car dosent start etc.....

Also find out where the oil is leaking from cause that can also kill your engine ( bearings are usually first to go). If its a gasket change it. It could also be valve seals leaking (lots of blue smoke when you start the car). Could also be piston rings ( that will give you lower compression and constant oil consumption with blue smoke) Could also be as simple as the PCV valve clugged pushing oil into the intake.

You can keep the fan running always by energizing the relay. Put a metal clip between 87 and 30 and it will be always energized

Hope that helps

I posted a question earlier this week about my eclipse over heating. The gauge warms up normally but goes past the hot mark when im driving but goes below it when im idling. I've recently done a tune-up, changed the spark plugs, oil, and coolant. It,s got oil, coolant and the fans work so i dont know if its actually getting hot or what, i dont know how to tell how hot it acutally is. Someone suggested i check the sensors so i did and i saw what you see in the pictures attached(i pulled one of the wires out to show you how they slide on). There are two wires that go into that sensor and pull right out, like they just slide on a prong in there. I think this might be the problem, but i dont know what it is, what i need to get to fix it, or if it even needs replaced. Also could this have anything to do with my heater not working? The plug is below the thermostat housing. Any help would be appreciated, thank you!

You should really fix those wires, they look like they are about to come off.

It also sounds like you might have some air bubbles you coolant. When was the last time your coolant was changed?

ok so i just got my car back, here is the mod list to the engine, the reason for this post is the car is acting very funny, it is untuned but the fuel settings seem to be correct for 850cc fic injectors (47 global 330 deadtime) i also have set up the 2g da timing table.

Basically the car heats up during idle to around 180 degrees and stays, then when i start to drive over a matter of 10 minutes it climes to 220 and keeps going so i have to shut it off and run the fans to cool it off. The car idles at an afr of 12-14.5 to 1 and under any throttle even 2 percent it is 10-12 to 1 , i notice the front o2 sensor only cycles when i touch the throttle, and even at 220 degrees it doesn't cycle unless you are touching the throttle. I have a brand new radiator, 160 degree thermo stat, the correct coolant water mix, a little water wetter and 2 slim fans on a shroud, but the slim fans only come on with the ac button depressed (ac has been removed) so i keep them on all the time. also the car stalls if you let off the throttle and it gets below 2k, this is very annoying and tough to drive, in between shifts it tries to stall as well, if anyone could shed some light on this it would be great, im terified that there is something rong with my new motor

mods in a nut shell
90 6 bolt, fresh cylinder head just back from machine shop with 272 cams and 3g lifters, arps, mls gasket, new water pump, dsmlink v3, fp green, stock radiator with 2 beast slim fans, vrsf fmic, jmf smim, stock wires, step 7 plugs, 160 degree tstat, tial bv50 bov,sbr ex manifold, tial f38 wastegate, punishment o2 housing, 2.5 inch exhuast

First 220* is not over heating.

212* is boil point of water at sea level

For every pound of pressure applied to a cooling system you add 3* to the boil point.

You should have a 13lb cap so 13 x 3* = 39*
212* + 39* = 251*

Next is how are you getting your temp readings? Stock gauge? Aftermaket Gauge? DSM link?

Also how many cores are in front of the radiator? Ac Condensor? FMIC? Oil cooler?

Next is the fan shroud sealed to the radiator? If not the fans will pull air from the path of least restance.

just realized i had the fans pushing air towards the radiator , my temp readings are coming from dsm link, but before my new build the stock temp gauge never read over the half mark and now it does, my cam angle sensor is dead center, im not sure but i this is the stock radiator cao that came with the my last motor believe, i also do not no if the coolent system was bleed

Well looks like you are on the right track.

Rewire the so the pull and check temps again.

Also a rad cap need to be tested and/or replaced every other year.

ok i would rather just replace the cap to be on the safe side can i get that at advanced and should i make sure its a certain pressure, sorry im very new to dsmlink and a dsm thats not stock. could the radiator fans wired backwards really make the car overheat while driving? also any ideas why my o2 isnt cycling unless i hit the throttle, or is that the way it is supposed to be

yes the fans wired backward will cause a car to overheat... you have forced air from driving going one way and the fans are tryin to push air the other way
Plus at idle you are tryin to push hot eingine air thu the rad.

Just get a stock pressure cap from the parts store

Thanks guys i will keep ya posted