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turbo glowing red

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josh90laser

10+ Year Contributor
59
0
Oct 13, 2011
chattanooga, Tennessee
At idle to 1800 rpm

Started glowing red
cut off
Tried to start 5 minutes later and wouldn't really run
Idle at 500rpm and wouldn't go up



Tell me what to check and how.

Thanks!
 
This exact scenario happened to me the last time i had a turbo failure. Turbo was glowing and puking oil, got it home and shut it down.

Next day tried to restart and it sounded like someone had there hand over the TB and was choking the air supply enough it could barely run.

Check for shaft play or damage to the wheel, as well as oil in your piping. If any of those are evident in excess, you likely have a blown turbo and either need a rebuild or replacement.
 
check for oil flow and coolant flow through turbo, essential systems. Clean maf, and seal intake leaks , and change primary o2 sensor to make sure the car is running the right mixture. If possible measure exhaust temp with an EGT sensor and air/fuel with a wideband o2 sensor for analysis.

Note: red hot turbo and components can cause oil coking inside the housing which could require a rebuild. Check for coking inside the turbo housing, a thick black carbon deposit.
 
check for oil flow and coolant flow through turbo, essential systems. Clean maf, and seal intake leaks , and change primary o2 sensor to make sure the car is running the right mixture. If possible measure exhaust temp with an EGT sensor and air/fuel with a wideband o2 sensor for analysis.

im running a maft
just put new maf from autozone on the car

do not have a wideback
or timing light
i think i might need to tune the maf-t some more, but its all stock and set to stock settings :hmm:


any way to check on valves without pulling off the head?
i dont have a compression leak down tester



when i first got this car it was all stock, put a boost gauge on it and it built boost. then i head a loud pop and it wouldnt rev fast and it idled at 500 and you had to hold it to the floor for a few seconds and once it was above like 1400 rpm it would start to rev quicker... i thought the loud pop was the exhaust manifold when it cracked and replaced it with a 2g manifold because i thought that was the loud pop was the manifold or the stock intercooler or piping

so all intercooler piping is tight and manifold isnt cracked

when i hooked up the new maf for the maft it idled fine and revd fine and it does make a noise under the engine bay like something is slapping something, ima make a video or something here soon.... and show everyone whats happening.. LOL
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You must be running super lean, make sure all the setting on the translator on right too.
 
View My Video

Idles fine and will Rev fine.

Now if it dies and restarts it might idle at 500 and not go higher
And if I put a loaf behind it fir first gear and ease off clutch at full throttle it will die

This was after standard tune on maft new maf and unplugging ground for a few minutes and engine hasn't been started in over 3 hours.
 
Since your profile is not filled out I m gonna have to assume you still have stock exhaust. Have you checked maybe your cat is plugged.
 
Whens the last time you set your timing with a timing light?

Maybe your Cam angle Sensor got moved an your timing is retarded...... or like said above your cat is clogged if you have one
 
Its stock exhaust but straight piped back no cat now...

I have full 3" but I'm.not fooling with it now LOL

Haven't checked time yet. But I will do. Don't have a light :/
 
Line your cam marks proper, cam dowels at 12 O'clock
and then check the crank marks
 
so there was a boost leak, now it spools up faster and a lot more boost.. but itll still only max at like 2500-2800 rpm and when i let off it instantly goes down rpms.. and when i touch the gas itll move from 1000 to 1500 or so easy, but getting to 2800 takes time and boost

boost gauge stock is reading off the charts and aftermarket gauge reads like 5 then after 2200 rpm will go up 5-9 or so.. i always let off way early but thats what itll do

any idea?

thanks

how can you see the crank marks on the engine? pull wheel and all those plastic covers off?
 
In the video we heard lifter tick. Which means it's time to change your oil.
Also, did you ever check for shaft play on your turbo?
I'm also thinking tha you still have a boost/vacuum leak somewhere.
Also, I think you should check voltage at your o2 sensor at idle.
Take a wrench and knock on the bottom of the muffler, see if it sounds full, it could be plugged as well.
 
Your new symptoms, sound like a faulty or unplugged TPS. I've had this happen a few times with your exact symptoms.
 
Check your around your throttle body for leaks.
Spray the are down with starting fluid at idle, if the RPMs rise, then there is a leak.
You can do this at all vacuum lines and silicon couplings.

i hooked up a boost leak tester to where the turbo goes to the intercooler and it held pressure for a while all the way from turbo pipe to throttle body with all piping hooked up minus from turbo to intercooler where leak tester was.. and it held pressure for a while till i unhooked my tester

no couplers had leaks and tb was all hooked up and it didnt leak either


i took pictures of the crank itself and of cam gears.. idk what in the world im looking for to be honest with this timing

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lmk if these pictures arent what you want, and ill get whatever! thanks!
any help is appreciated

and starter fluid didnt affect anything.... and all my vacuum lines are plugged off around tb

In the video we heard lifter tick. Which means it's time to change your oil.
Also, did you ever check for shaft play on your turbo?
I'm also thinking tha you still have a boost/vacuum leak somewhere.
Also, I think you should check voltage at your o2 sensor at idle.
Take a wrench and knock on the bottom of the muffler, see if it sounds full, it could be plugged as well.


just changed the oil out with full synthetic
flushed what was in the car completly out, might be a tad low/high ill adjust that shortly

guarentee no boost leak :p have a nice air compressor and tire inflater and was pushing some air to the piping and filled it up with pressure and it sat for 30 seconds or so and when i removed that cap it still had pressure behind it when i took off my tester i went back and double checked since recent post tonight

ill check on the muffler, havent even looked at it.. its that huge stock one still

how do i check o2 voltage?

Your new symptoms, sound like a faulty or unplugged TPS. I've had this happen a few times with your exact symptoms.


ok, how can i test?
i think i know what your talking about.. little plug type thing on top of TB that looks like a knife going in ish... LOL hard to describe but i pushed it last week when i was looking over everything, it and it might be bad..

Check your around your throttle body for leaks.
Spray the are down with starting fluid at idle, if the RPMs rise, then there is a leak.
You can do this at all vacuum lines and silicon couplings.

just hosed the crap out of everything with starter fluid!!

nothing changed
 
Last edited:
while the key is on grab a multimeter and check the voltage on it, at idle or just key on, it should be .63- .65 v swing the tb with your hand to wot, it should reed 5 volts on the dot.

If this isn't the case, adjust it or it may be bad, I have a spare i can help you out with if it is indeed bad.

Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off - YouTube
 
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