You check your SAFC.

sounds like injectors are not receiving the signal from the ecu

i agree with johnson, do you have a spare ecu you can plug in to test?

numbertwelve said:

i agree with johnson, do you have a spare ecu you can plug in to test?

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Yes. Something is going on computer wise if everthing is checked and checked out good.

Yea my afc seems fine when I was driving the car jurked and the idle went down to 400 and I don't know why it did that but I'm going to do a mood light test.

Check the blue MPI fuse by the battery. If that's blown, the car will not start.

If you have a logger, plug it in, turn the key on and check to see what codes the ECU is showing. Also, turn the key on, but dont try to start the car. Look at the factory boost gauge; it should come up to the 0 position, the check engine light should come on, then the check engine light should go off seconds later. If these things arent happening, the ECU and or its wiring are at fault or you need to clean the crap out of your battery terminals. If those things do happen, try and crank the engine for 3 seconds or so and when you let off the key, you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds, followed by the relay clicking back off. Does this happen? Check these things and get back to us and I will come up with a solution for you

Yep my ecu passes all those tests. I don't have. Logger and I hear the fuel pump. I took off the fill side on the fuel rail turned the fuel pump on and fuel blasts out so that's good I'm going to see if my injectors are getting a signal by using a nois light I'm going to go buy one real quick.

So, you were just driving around when this problem began, and the car just bogged down and died, and now it wont start. Is that correct?
What color was the fuel when it was coming out of the line when you did your test?
When is the last time the fuel filter was changed?
What FPR is on the car- factory or AFPR, and by what manufacturer if so? (These dont go bad often, but it can happen)
You say you have spark- how did you verify this? (I know that previously you stated that if you sprayed starting fluid in, the motor would try and start, but it would still do this even if it were only firing erratically)
It seems to me that your CAS may be at fault, though it may not be because the ECU wont turn on the fuel pump unless it sees feedback from the CAS when youre cranking the motor, and you say your pump turns on- have you inspected the wiring at the CAS and checked the plug to make sure its on all the way? You can easily verify proper spark and fuel by taking the CAS off and rotating the CAS with the key in the ON position with one plug wire at a time- rotate the CAS til that wire fires, then move to the next one- same thing with the injectors when you get the noid light.
I would also check the plug at the ignitor by the coil.

^^Answer these questions for me and we will go to the next step

check to see if your injectors are pulsing. take the cas out, turn the key on, spin the cas by hand. you will hear the injectors "fire". if they don't, test the injector resistor box/cas.

kchazz beat me to it.

try what we asked. Then report back.

Alright I'll give it a try tomorrow thanks to both of you.

Ok well I did what you guys said and the CAS Is working so idk what it could be. I rotated it and I would here the fuel pump injectors all that and did a few multi meter tests. Any other ideas guys? Thanks

volcomsnow245 said:

Ok well I did what you guys said and the CAS Is working so idk what it could be. I rotated it and I would here the fuel pump injectors all that and did a few multi meter tests. Any other ideas guys? Thanks

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In my previous post, I asked what happened when this problem began, were you just driving around and the car just bogged down and died? Were you boosting WOT when the car jerked and died down? Was the jerk accompanied by a loud pop or similar sound?

What color was the fuel that came out when you were checking to see if fuel was reaching the rail?

What FPR is on the car? If not stock, by what manufacturer is it made, and do you have access to another reg, whether it be stock or otherwise? Running a Wally 255 on the stock regulator isnt a great idea as the stock reg cannot flow enough and you end up with base fuel pressure that is higher than what your ECU expects it to be and you will run rich all the time.

Also, I noticed that you are running a Tial BOV to atmosphere, which will cause you to run rich every time you shift because the BOV is allowing air that has already been metered by the maf to escape.

Did you check the spark when you rotated the CAS?? Check the plugs to see if they are all fouled out with fuel/oil?

If your coolant temp sensor is bad it will make your car very difficult, if not impossible to start when cold and possibly run like a bag of asshole when its warm.
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