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1G Sudden Jerk or Shake During Hard Acceleration

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NinjaClyde

Probationary Member
17
0
Oct 10, 2011
Fairbanks, Alaska
I will start by saying i have searched for similar problems and have done the fixes for those problems and it hasn't fixed my issue.

I recently got a 90 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD and for the first week or so of having it i drove it fairly regularly. Recently i went to go overtake someone and when i was accelerating the car made a sudden strong jerk. Later I tried to see it i could cause the issue again on purpose by doing some full throttle launches. First gear went though fine, but then it second and third gear it had this hard shake at about 4500 RPM. Maybe forth gear as well, but i didn't want to go that fast with what ever issue that my car may be having.

To help clarify this is not a gradual shaking like wheel balance or alignment. it is a sudden hard shake like if you where push starting a car in first gear, though i don't know how many of you people know what that is like, i didn't until recently when i had to help my brother.

I have already cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the fuel and air filters, and checked the spark plugs, which looked fine and gaped properly. When it shudders there is not check engine lights flashing or anything. I think it might be something to do with the turbo letting go or something but i don't know if that would cause such a violent shake.

My car is basically completely stock, as in no aftermarket mods, just it has 130,000 so obviously a few parts have probably been replaced.

PS: I don't know if this is related to the issue but one out of about five times i start my car it has a hard time holding an idle.

SOLUTION: For those who may have the same issue. Once I installed a real boost gauge i saw it was boosting too high for a stock turbo set up. It was a fuel cut issue caused by the hose in not connected to my blow off valve so it wasn't releasing the pressure.
 
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Iv had this problem twice with my car and each time it was something different, the first time it was my plugs, witch looked fine and were gapped properly, the second time it was my battery terminals.
 
My 1g had something similar when taking off. Your situation sounds like mine. I had a bad shaking but didn't know what it was until when at highway speed my transfer case bound up and the car went sliding with all the tires locked up. May want to check transfer case for proper fill level. My car went close to 100 miles with the issue.
 
Ravenous, how much did you reduce you spark plug gap? i remember when i check my plugs they were all gaped to the lowest recommended gaping as listed under the car's hood, i don't remember the amount off the top of my head.

Also, i guess i will try a boost leak test if the plugs thing doesn't work because as i mentioned i can't imagine that a boost leak would cause such a violent and sudden of a shake.

Also again to clarify it is not a gradually more intense shaking. It runs perfectly up until it suddenly has this hard jerk like a misfire or something.

If I don't get this for a while i might try making a video to help show what exactly happens.
 
He said it's stock, so I would imagine stock boost, so probably not fuel cut.

OP, yes a boost leak will cause it to jerk like that if it's big enough of a leak. So do a BLT.
 
How much boost are you running? This could be fuel cut.

I agree it sounds like fuel cut. On a stock fuel system in a 1g this will happen between 16-20 PSI, without a piggyback or link. It's very dependent on other conditions (temp, load, rpm, etc). I understand he said the car was stock, but there are ways to change boost levels other then with a boost controller. Motorcycle carb jets in the vacuum lines to the BCS will restrict how much boost the BCS "sees," thereby raising boost pressure.

Op, do you have a boost gauge, other then the stock one, installed?

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 
Ninja what plugs and wires do you have in there. These cars give alot of issues if you don't use NGK plugs(bpr6es) and wires or at least some type of performance wire. If you don't know what kind of plugs or wires there are. I would change them! That autozone, and pep boys crip doesn't work well. If you have a bunch of performance mods you may need the the (bpr7es plugs).
 
I prefer to go by "Clyde" ninja was just an add-on to let me use the name Clyde.

Anyways, I re-gaped my plugs at .022 but I got sick and I haven't been able to go out and test drive it yet. Also i couldn't really tell anything from the plugs in terms of company, but do to their lack of visual appeal i can be pretty sure they were just some sort of generic plugs and not some high performance ones. also the rubber seal that is typically just part of the wire didn't come out with the wires, like they melted slightly. so they were a paint to get off, i guess that is an indication i should have them replaced anyways with the performance high heat ones.

As i mentioned if this spark plug thing doesn't help then i will be looking more into doing some boost leak testing. I have seen some vague things about building some PVC contraption. Can anyone post a link to a nice "How-to" hopefully 1g dsm oriented.

Also to reply to a couple other posts. the car doesn't shake when i release the gas slightly, it happens during the full throttle type of acceleration. Also the bad tps symptoms sound similar but there is not hesitation in the acceleration response time so i don't think that is it.
 
Ok, now after re-gaping the spark plugs at .022 the car feels like it is running better. In terms of the issue on hand though i still got the weird shake (jerk/shudder what ever you want to call it) in 3rd gear but not 2nd gear. This makes me think it probably is the plugs and this temporary fix will probably be fine for now, the roads where i live are starting to get slick anyways.

I will look into those high performance NGK plugs soon, also from the age and mileage on the car i should probably still do a boost leak test anyways, before i start any performance upgrades.

So thank you for the replies, and suggestions. I look forward to further seeking advice and hopefully later start being able to share it later.

On a side note: Did my first snow drift session today in a parking lot, and i have to say i a so glad i got my Talon, it felt so natural and the car control came easy. Also i took my neighbor out for a drive in my car a couple days ago and he noticed even in my Talon's limping state it would be quite a challenge for his BMW 535i.
 
sound like a boost cut
in first gear it just can't build enough boost to hit limit, but in higher gears it overboosts
do you have boost gauge ?

my mate recently purchased evo4 and the car did same things in second and third gear

installed boost gauge and it was boosting 1.6 bar ! instead of 0.8-0.9 bar
 
You most likely have a boost leak. Perform a BLT then come back to us with the results.

IC Pipe Tester

It is possible you have a coil pack going on it's way out. Mine did something similar At around 3500 rpms and above it would miss, about a month after the coil pack went bad and was firing on 2 cylinders. Swapped the coil pack out and never had a problem with it since. You can also test your coil pack.

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It is basically a stock car at the moment, so i doubt fuel cut.

I have been looking into assembling a boost leak tester, just need the 2 1/2 coupling which i think i will nees to get at an actual plumbing store. Technically there was one at an autoparts store but it seemed a bit over priced.

I also have been looking deeply into getting an actual boost guage. Looking into where i tap into and such. I think i will order the guage online though, very small local selection. Where do you like to mount your boost gauges? I was going to mount mine to the pillar, but i might change that if i hear a particularly intresting place.

PS: posted from my phone so sorry if there is any typos, i tried to go back and correct the ones i saw.
 
Mine is currently mounted on the A-pillar. I've seen many people mount them in the center vents. I would move my gauges there in a heartbeat, if I could find the plate. Mach V used to make them. Discontinued them a few years ago. However I did see another cool idea that I may do instead with my center vents. A local guy here has his SAFC mounted in his center vents. I will probably do that when I decide to redo the interior.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 
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