why bump a 6 month old thread

urbansmoker1 said:

dude u got a huge dent in that thing... scrap it even if it is going to be put back on a truck .. prob wont even hold boost anymore

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Thank god you saved him from running it. Whoo that was close... Wait that dent your talking about is on the last row and isn't even a tube its just a flat piece of plate that holds the last row of fins. It's fine.

I have seen it in person the core is fine. Plus with a good fab guy this thing can be a normal height extra long core with cast end tanks very similar to the dvdt core.

You would be surprised how much abuse tube and fin can take. Mine is dented, twisted, and crushed and still hold boost just fine. And since its a garrett core it still cools more efficiently than a lot of these ebay cores on this site.

OH man.

WHAT A BUNCHA ####ING IDIOTS.

Haha people are still fighting over this.

The world has not seen the last of this beast... FYI it holds boost great, I used the butt plates from my vacuum chamber clamped onto the inlet/outlet, took it down to 0.1 Torr and it held pump off indefinitely. There's no leaks.

These cast end tanks are worth $400 alone, the core is the cheapest part of the unit.

I think I'm going to remove a few vertical inches and run it just to jibe the haters.

casuprock said:

I had to get the out the angle grinder, cut some frame, and delete power steering to get this point. So far, it looks like it's within reach while retaining drivable ground clearance.

The air coming out of this behemoth will be pretty close to ambient temperature.

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OMFG!!!! I thought you were joking at first. I was gonna suggest a bicycle rack on the roof with it mounted up there but holy hell, if you've got a turbo that ccan fill that thing with air fast enough (probably gonna increase lag is what i'm getting at) but man IF you get a system working with keeping temps below ambient shou'dn't be an issue at all ..keep pics coming, agian i'm shocked you're really taking this on!! Best of luck, I really do hope you succeed just so i can say "i saw one on a aDSM on my forum i'm always on"

But hey, at least isntead of trimming the bumper to fit the core you can just paint the bumper on to the core!!! i'm not knocking you at all.. I'm wanting to see more progress although there was the part about not doing it, i'm secretely hoping you did or are gonna finish this just for shits and giggles

This doesn't make any sense to me, pressure drop results from the increase in travel distance through the intercooler, so to actually effectively cool more with it, you want a thicker core, not necessarily the length and height. This seems anti-productive to me, but...oh well.

turboglenn said:

you can just paint the bumper on to the core!!!

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This is awesome. I laughed a lot. I've got a friend who paints, I could have him do a "perspective" painting on the core to make it look like a 3D bumper.

o wow can't wait to see how this turns out. more power to you

this is dumb..

Me:

Delete the hood and use it as a top mount.

I say rock it! Top mount, roof mount, windshield mount... hahaha!
80% of cooling takes place in the first 2 inches of an intercooler's width anyways so this honker with its nice slim core, huge surface area, and nice flowing endtaks should yield results.
I wouldn't drive it on the street or anything, but if you're lookin' to goof around and only go 1320 feet you might be surprised.

turbolarry said:

I say rock it! Top mount, roof mount, windshield mount... hahaha!
80% of cooling takes place in the first 2 inches of an intercooler's width anyways so this honker with its nice slim core, huge surface area, and nice flowing endtaks should yield results.
I wouldn't drive it on the street or anything, but if you're lookin' to goof around and only go 1320 feet you might be surprised.

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Sir, you deserve a medal for understanding thermodynamics and fluid mechanics.

She swallowed it!

The job required some slight modifications and 45 degree orientation which turned out to work favorably providing common mounting points for a front air dam and guess what... I get to keep my headlights.

Pic of the cast end tank with red dust cap. It's a couple feet away from the TB with no sharp bends:



Drivers side:


Front view through my beat up bumper:

this is just amazing! but i think you should cut out a bigger mouth in you bumper to get more air actually flowing through it . or get an aftermarket one but not rice that would be stupid

Different strokes for different folks I guess. Looks like you cut up a decent car to use an intercooler that's job could have been done by one with a 1/3rd the size.

I bet you would be way better off running a hot piped setup with lots of meth injection, in terms of system efficiency. Even that monster is going to have several psi drop across it at 50psi and 60-70lbs/min. That few extra psi could turn out to be as much as another 50hp the turbine has to extract from the exhaust gas? What do you think that's going to do to your drive to boost ratio? When you have 70-100psi of drive, how much exhaust gas is going to be left in the chamber to dilute the charge? What is the temp of your fresh charge going to be after it mixes with a bunch of 1500* exhuast gas?

Once again your putting way to much effort into areas that don't matter. A $100 A2W cooler off ebay would flow more, cool better and fit better. Ya you'd have to run ice water, but you wouldn't have to cut the shit out of your car.

1991 awd talon said:

this is just amazing! but i think you should cut out a bigger mouth in you bumper to get more air actually flowing through it . or get an aftermarket one but not rice that would be stupid

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Yeah, no rice bumpers! My bumper is beat up anyway I won't feel bad opening it up some.

If you can get back to the sub frame, tube out from there. Angle that bear with it's outlets up. Good luck that monster is going to be a bieach to finalize.

bastarddsm said:

Different strokes for different folks I guess. Looks like you cut up a decent car to use an intercooler that's job could have been done by one with a 1/3rd the size.

I bet you would be way better off running a hot piped setup with lots of meth injection, in terms of system efficiency.

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Strokes for some 2.1 de-strokes for others.

You are correct. 100% methanol and nitrous is a great thing for drag. I could burn meth for fuel but I decided to use pump gas because methanol is a pain to store and isn't convenient to purchase (let alone burn on a trip). The gas stations around me don't even sell E85 and I don't want jerrycans of meth in the back seat. I've got a meth spray, but that's as far as I want to go with alcohol.

A2W requires an extra pump, can get heat soaked, etc. Ice down A2W is amazing, but then again it's all drag. All things considered before going ahead with the large A2A.

I think it's awesome build a nice bumper so your baby doesnt get hurt and make sure you flaunt us some pictures .

Please post up some Dyno numbers with the t-25!!! Haha!

If you open the bumper up more and add some sheet metal ducting you should have some serious cooling with no pressure drop!

Keep the pics coming!

97gst_spyder said:

Please post up some Dyno numbers with the t-25!!! Haha!

If you open the bumper up more and add some sheet metal ducting you should have some serious cooling with no pressure drop!

Keep the pics coming!

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haha yeah it does look especially ridiculous with the small turbo in there. That's a FP-T28 in the pic, but it will get replaced soon enough with a 351VE.

I want to see pics man!! this is a sweet break from the norm

casuprock said:

Strokes for some 2.1 de-strokes for others.

You are correct. 100% methanol and nitrous is a great thing for drag. I could burn meth for fuel but I decided to use pump gas because methanol is a pain to store and isn't convenient to purchase (let alone burn on a trip). The gas stations around me don't even sell E85 and I don't want jerrycans of meth in the back seat. I've got a meth spray, but that's as far as I want to go with alcohol.

A2W requires an extra pump, can get heat soaked, etc. Ice down A2W is amazing, but then again it's all drag. All things considered before going ahead with the large A2A.

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I never suggested nitrous, or straight methanol as fuel. I suggested just the typical meth injection as a availble from devils own, snowmist, ect...

I'm not sure you've done your homework on the A2W stuff. How much heat do you think a 1500 hp diesel setup creates? We run a 6.6l duramax, on a single hx60 non-wastegated in a 32cm housing. Its moving on the order of 160lb/min, at 70 psi boost. Our pre intercooler temps are in the 400*f range. We run a PTE 2000hp rated A2W cooler with about 8 gal of water and 40lbs of ice. We logged post intercooler temps of 50* and less than 1psi drop. We were able to get 10 30 second dyno pulls without melting all the ice. We also don't run a heat exchanger. Just to see how it would work, we made a pull with just chilled water. We still logged a 50* post intercooler temp, and less than a 5* increase in the cooling water temp.

So tell me how a well designed A2W is going to get heat soaked. This was our first shot, and most of it was just a good guess. Anyway, look for an article featuring a yellow 97 chevy in diesel power magazine.

bastarddsm said:

I never suggested nitrous, or straight methanol as fuel. I suggested just the typical meth injection as a availble from devils own, snowmist, ect...

I'm not sure you've done your homework on the A2W stuff.

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Yes, I have an AEM mist kit. Sorry I misunderstood what you meant because I've seen hot pipe cars burning meth for fuel. My mist kit is not sufficient to run without an intercooler at the boost being discussed.

The thermal resistance of an A2W setup is greater at steady state than an A2A setup with equal cooling surface area. A2W is passive, just like A2A, there are no heat pumps or magic tricks involved. A2W involves one more step through which the heat must transfer. A2W is superior during transients because of the specific heat of water, but this comes at the cost of higher thermal resistance at steady state and an additional pump/radiator system.

A2W is better than A2A is when 1. You don't have the room for an A2A cooler with low pressure drop 2. During drag use when ice is used to bring the charge temperature below ambient. 3. The engine is mid-mounted or located in a position difficult for airflow.

I had considered an A2W in series with a A2A to get the good transient response from the A2W with the steady state performance of A2A. Because of the added pump, rad, and fluid, I decided against doing that and elected to use an A2A cooler with very high cooling capacity.

Here's my 'homework' showing A2W and A2A in series, posted a long time ago. You can use cyclepad and a thermodynamics book to figure out this problem and check the answer.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/395327-free-modeling-software.html