I am in the process of assembling a 6 bolt bottom end with a 7 bolt (2G) head. I am using the ARP headstuds (12mm for the 6 bolt). The head has been bored for the larger studs so the head drops down over the studs no problem. However, I am having some major clearance issues with the valve springs and the nuts for the head studs. I am also running dual coil valve springs, which I am sure is not helping the issue. I remember this being a slight issue on an all 7 bolt engine I helped build a few years ago, and also on an all 6 bolt engine (a bit worse in this case) which I finished up a couple months ago. But it seems that this issue is even worse (in my experience) when putting a 2G head on a 6 bolt block.

Has anyone dealt with this and have some solution to getting the head bolted down?

Thanks in advance.

This has been covered about a thousand times. Just shove the valve spring over a bit with a flat tip screw driver.

This happened to me during my first 4g build and I had a panic attack because nothing had said this would occur. As stated, on here as you can imagine many people have come to this cross road.

Based on the issue with these washers you would think after 10 years they would have been made that 1-2mm smaller.

Good times.

The washers all fit no problem, just put them in the head before dropping it over the studs. The nuts can be ground a few mm to clear. It's only 3-4 of them that have an issue.

I always put the studs in after laying the head on the block. Just put the washers in the spot where they go, drop the stud thru and thread it in with an allen wrench. Put oil on the lower threads when you do this or else it will contaminate the head gasket sealing surface with oil.

bryanwheat said:

I always put the studs in after laying the head on the block. Just put the washers in the spot where they go, drop the stud thru and thread it in with an allen wrench. Put oil on the lower threads when you do this or else it will contaminate the head gasket sealing surface with oil.

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+1 but be sure to use ARP lube and not oil.

Place the head on the block first, then the washers, then the studs, then the nuts. If you put the studs in first you run the risk of scratching the deck when positioning the head onto the block.

he meant oil in the threads in the block

Oops, i meant to say don't put oil or any other lube on the lower threads or you will contaminate the gasket.

Boostinsideways said:

This has been covered about a thousand times. Just shove the valve spring over a bit with a flat tip screw driver.

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Believe me, I tried that, these springs are pretty stiff. And not to mention a couple of them have virtually no room to even move in the direction away from their adjacent stud. And I had no luck finding this exact discussion anywhere on the forum, although I expect it does exist somewhere on the forum.

I also wish this was something ARP would address, it really is looking like I am going to have to grind down a few of the nuts.

Thanks for the info guys.

ed1380 said:

he meant oil in the threads in the block

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So did I


The threads going into the block need to be lubed. If you're not sloppy with the lube you wont contaminate the gasket. NEVER run them in dry. Use either ARP lube or blue loctite.

A small update:

I ground down the flange on 4 of the head stud nuts, they clear the springs fine now. However, the springs are still so close that getting a socket onto them once they are ran down next to the springs is a royal pain.

I am in the process of trying to get the head torqued down now.