O and I'm not cheap, just unemployed at the moment. Once I get a job and get things rolling again I'm planning on dumping a lot of money into her

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Jon91TSi said:

FYI, you aren't risking your engine by running with a cheap bov or even without. Quit posting false information for others to read. Your RFL isn't any better than what the op bought......

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Sure without one is fine, you just have a huge boost leak and will be running extremelly rich if at all.. And if you BOV isn't working, charged air in the engine whenthere shouldn't be is great too!

If you just want a daily driver you can drive with it leaking. Its recirculated so it wont hurt anything.

camsmurdered2g said:

Sure without one is fine, you just have a huge boost leak and will be running extremelly rich if at all.. And if you BOV isn't working, charged air in the engine whenthere shouldn't be is great too!

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WHAT?

Do you know how a diverter valve works?

Without the valve you won't have a boost leak, you would plug the holes so there wouldn't be any lean condition from the non existent vacuum leak at idle or rich at boost.

With out the valve, the air would travel back to the turbo compressor wheel and try to spin it backwards. It's not going to affect the motor one bit.

I forgot it was recirc, I apologize. I am used to aftermarket vented.

camsmurdered2g said:

Sure without one is fine, you just have a huge boost leak and will be running extremelly rich if at all.. And if you BOV isn't working, charged air in the engine whenthere shouldn't be is great too!

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You completely missed the point... I meant either no provision for a BOV or blocked off. Several of my friends who drift choose not to run a BOV, their engines are under constant stress and abuse and are all running strong. Your second statement makes no sense, sorry.

slayer450 said:

O and I'm not cheap, just unemployed at the moment. Once I get a job and get things rolling again I'm planning on dumping a lot of money into her

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Its all good!

And as for my other leak. Is there supposed to be a gasket before and after the throttle body? Are they the same gasket?

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slayer450 said:

And as for my other leak. Is there supposed to be a gasket before and after the throttle body? Are they the same gasket?

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Yes there are two gaskets, one before and one after. They are different, you can pick them up from one of our vendors.

can someone post a pic of the 2? One of mine is m.i.a. and want to make sure I get the right ones

Yeah, I'm a complete noob.

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Nevermind, ordered the set from stm. Be here in a few days

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1g all the way

Jon91TSi said:

You completely missed the point... I meant either no provision for a BOV or blocked off. Several of my friends who drift choose not to run a BOV, their engines are under constant stress and abuse and are all running strong. Your second statement makes no sense, sorry.

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Your friends are either venting to atmosphere, using a recirc system somewhere or they're idiots. The point of the BOV is to prevent compressor surge from destroying your turbo when the throttle body closes.

A turbocharged system will continue to build pressure for a bit after you get off the gas. That extra pressure needs to go somewhere, if you're running a closed system and close off the throttle body, guess where it goes? That's right, back through the turbo! This compressor surge will at the very least destroy your oil seals, which is bad news unless you like pretending you're playing "Spy Hunter" every time you go for a drive.

If you leave it open, your letting metered air out, and you're allowing un-metered air in to the system. This is bad. If you dump a recirculated system to atmosphere, you're letting metered air out, this is also bad.

Don't be stupid, guys. Use good parts and tune your car properly for the system you're running. It's a lot cheaper than replacing engine parts.

Ok, so I ordered an hks ssqv last night. My bov started making a funky noise with vacuum on it. I took a video of it but don't know how to upload it. It stops when I pinch the top vacuum line. is this thing safe to drive for the week its going to take for my new one to get here?

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slayer450 said:

Ok, so I ordered an hks ssqv last night. My bov started making a funky noise with vacuum on it. I took a video of it but don't know how to upload it. It stops when I pinch the top vacuum line. is this thing safe to drive for the week its going to take for my new one to get here?

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Provided it's not compressor surge (it likely isn't, and you rather have a boost leak), you should be fine.

FYI, you could always upload it to YouTube or some such and then just post a link to it here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcRRA7XaHO0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Please don't point out my exhaust leak. It will be fixed as soon as I get my test pipe

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i just can't believe i threw away my 1g bov i thought it was junk

DSMReviver said:

i just can't believe i threw away my 1g bov i thought it was junk

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thats sad, 1g bov are the best band for your buck. I always see honda kids running them, telling me its a JDM BOV etc etc, and are shocked when I show them the little mitsu symbol on it.

If they only knew that mitsu is making it possible for them to keep up with us.

I love my 1g BOV, never had a problem, I use a HKS BOV right now, but that is due to engine bay fitment issues and easy removal and installation due to the snap ring. The adapter from 1g to HKS allows me to rotate the BOV in any direction, makes recirculation it much easier. TiAL and Synapse also have this benefit.

I run a 1g on my 2g it works fine.
Lucas English recomended the 1g also.

Just find a good 1g BOV and call it good.