Car Won't Run... Everrrr

92PandaTalonTSI · Oct 6, 2011

So I live in Bethlehem, PA. I bought my first DSM (6 Bolt) in March and have been having problems with it since. Eventually had to put a new engine in itbecause of bad piston rings and other things. So I bought an engine and built it with all good parts. Stock pistons etc etc. But now the engine is in and I've conquered all the wiring and the vacuum hoses and everything. Now I'vebeen trying to get it running so I can drive it. Car just runs like crap. Won't keep a stron idle. Feels like its running on 2 cylinders. I pulled the ECU to check it and it looks like it was recently rebuilt by motoguysgarage.com. Plus when turning the car to the on position, the check engine light comes on for 5 seconds then turns off, therefore I know the ECU is gettng power. I just need a lot of help and was wondering if there is anyone in the area with any kind of expertise that could help me figure this thing out. Cars been down since April and I'm getting tired of bumming rides off of people. Any help would be fantastic!!! I've looked through all the ECU threads, all the CAS threads, and can't find anything that can relate to anything I'm defintitely having problems with.

Ev0Stev0 · Oct 6, 2011

badly running dsm as only car FTL! ive felt your pain years ago back in the lehigh valley when i lived there. Could be a number of things, good luck figuring that out. hows the MAF look? and the idle screw? leaks? I dont think Motoguysgarage.com still does work? i could be incorrect, but i tried calling them and the number on their site is definitely not their number anymore. Also left feedback on the site and never got an email back. I dont know. I got my new ecu from madfablab with upgraded caps recently and its fine. but you say yours looks fine anyway. Do you know alot of DSM people in the Valley? Hit me up with a PM, i still have some connections back there....

TuRBoTaLooN · Oct 6, 2011

I'd help if I was nearby. But in the meantime check the basics:

1) Spark
2) Fuel
3) Compression

LiquidX · Oct 6, 2011

It sounds stupid but did you do a full boost leak test to ensure a 100% sealed system that is leak free?

92PandaTalonTSI · Oct 6, 2011

Yea i did a full boost leakdown test and fixed all the leaks, majority was coming from the injector seals and the j pipe. Did both of them, when we tested the injectors with the light kit (don't know the actual name) th light was coming up very very dull. So I really feel like its something to do with it getting fuel. New walbro fuel pump, aeromotive frp, and oem fuel filter, don't really know what else it could be with the fuel except some kind of wiring from the ecu, the ecu itself, or the CAS, but would the CAS cause as much of a problem im having? Checking compression this weekend but used engine with new Cometic MLS with head resurfaced and ARP head studs torqued to spec, really hope its not something in the head...

LiquidX · Oct 6, 2011

92PandaTalonTSI said:
or the CAS, but would the CAS cause as much of a problem im having? Checking compression this weekend but used engine with new Cometic MLS with head resurfaced and ARP head studs torqued to spec, really hope its not something in the head...

Well, if the CAS is 180* out then it's trying to fire at the wrong time in the wrong cylinder. Only 2 bolts to pull it out and rotate the shaft. Just make sure you re set the ignition timing with a light.

Hopefully your head and block were surfaced to the proper RA number (mirror shine without being able to catch a fingernail) for use with the MLS HG. I'm going to be swapping mine out to a composite for that reason.

92PandaTalonTSI · Oct 6, 2011

I really apreciate the input, but I looked up the timing on the CAS, because apparently they have specific timing marks too right? On mine there is a mark on the one side that has to be lined up with a groove. That's where they say to time th CAS before install. If I can find a pic I'll try to explain better... But I put the engine at TDC, all timing marks lined up. Then I put the timed CAS in and it runs like crap. I definitely have to check spark still and the computer might be fried, but from all the pics I see on ECMTuning.com, when they go they get very sloppy. Mine looks clean except for a few minor spots on the chip next to where the Eprom would go on an Eprom ECU (mine is not Eprom).

LiquidX · Oct 6, 2011

Ignition timing =/= mechanical timing. The CAS itself has to be bolted in at the proper orientation to achieve the 5* BTDC which would be had by grounding the timing pin and then pointing a timing gun at the timing marks on the timing belt cover.

Engine Timing

92PandaTalonTSI · Oct 6, 2011

Yea I timed the engine, done it many times before. I adjusted it to 5* before after it was warmed up like stated with the car seeming like it was running on 2 cylinders (hoping this would fire everything up). When I turned the car off and back on nto see if it would still be timed, it went haywire again. Bounced around and never stayed above 500 rpm stil feeling like its on 2 cylinders. That's what made me think it was the ECU because it couldn't remember the timing I did to it. So it's either the ISC motor, EGR, CAS, Coil Pack, ECU, or engine I spent about $2,000 building is shot before I even get to spool around town...

LiquidX · Oct 6, 2011

Well if you figure out what is causing your issue out of the list you posted (you seem to have a solid game plan), post up the results. My buddy is having a hard time with is doing the same thing but on a fresh rebuild and hopefully doesn't have to re ring from it not wanting to run.

92PandaTalonTSI · Oct 6, 2011

Ok thanks man, back to the garage for some more craziness.

LiquidX

I must have missed this step when timing my car... What exactly are they talking about here, and can that really effect the timing of the engine that much?

LiquidX · Oct 6, 2011

Without grounding the pin, you cannot adjust timing properly. It locks timing at 5*BTDC so you can manually set the timing via the CAS. Make sure to unground it when you are done.

92PandaTalonTSI · Oct 6, 2011

Which pin are they talking about? I'm looking at the location and can't tell what they are attaching the alligator clip to? Is there a wire there or something else? Very confused by the picture.

LiquidX · Oct 6, 2011

That's as much as I know about the pin. I use ECMLink so I just click a check box.

Ev0Stev0 · Oct 6, 2011

Did you also post this in regional? i suggest doing that. I know there is one guy in Coplay near you on this site that has a crazy first gen. i dont know him personally but he may be able to help out off the top of my head.

92PandaTalonTSI · Dec 12, 2011

Hey guys, just wanted to update everyone. Turns out the car had 3 of the 4 injectors clogged to the point where they didn't even drip. I guess when I installed the Walbro 255lph pump last April it picked up all the crappy fuel in the tank. So cleaned the injectors and new fuel filter and now its running on 3.5 cylinders instead of one. Ordered 3 used 450cc blue top injectors on eBay today and wanna replace 2 of the ones I currently have in it after I clean the eBay ones. Just have to find where the oil leak is coming from (Oil Pan Gasket is my guess. Never used the RTV on it just gasket material) I was told Honda Bond is the best. Is that true? But thanks for everyone's input and trying to figure this out. One long process that I can't wait to be over!!!

Talondvr · Dec 12, 2011

Did you find the timing ground pin? Its behind the battery on the firewall. Look for a wire coming out of the loom with a connector that should have a cap on it. Take the cap of and there's a pin to ground with a wire like the above pic.
Glad to here you found the issue. Don't forget to change the fuel filter too. :thumb:

Edit: nvm, I see you have the filter on the list. LOL

lasercrazy1313 · Dec 12, 2011

Don't use honda bond it sucks use black rtv in the cheese wiz can seals up any thing!!

92PandaTalonTSI · Dec 13, 2011

Yea I found the grounding pin, when setting the idle and timing we grounded the pin under the steering wheel and the timing pin, becoming a dsm expert. Still ordered three injectors top replace two of them. And I'll take your advice on the sealant. Any advice for fan relay switches?? I'm running one to the throttle body for coolant temp sensor and one on a switch, what you think??

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk

1gAWT · Dec 13, 2011

Hmmmmm, are you hearing the relays click when you turn to the on position?

92PandaTalonTSI · Dec 14, 2011

1gAWT said:
Hmmmmm, are you hearing the relays click when you turn to the on position?

The stock relays never worked when I bought the car, never overheated because it was winter and I was doing all highway driving to and from work and school, but I want to install new relays now.

These:
Flip Switch In Car- Painless Performance Products 30101 Painless Electric Fan Relay Kits

Temp Sensor one that taps into Thermostat Housing-
Painless Performance Products 30103 Painless Electric Fan Relay Kits

What do you guys think? Pretty basic installation I bet.

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Car Won't Run... Everrrr

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