I've got until the end of the month, so about 4 more trips. If I can get what I want out of the 16g I plan to toss a 14b on if I can borrow one somewhere before the track closes.

I doubt anyone here cares, but I went to the last track day of the year. Ran a new personal best of [email protected]. Also had a [email protected]. This is done on 94 pump fuel with a stock clutch that was slipping pretty good. A good clutch and the car would easily run 12s as it is.

1990AWD said:

I doubt anyone here cares, but I went to the last track day of the year. Ran a new personal best of [email protected]. Also had a [email protected]. This is done on 94 pump fuel with a stock clutch that was slipping pretty good. A good clutch and the car would easily run 12s as it is.

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Naw man of course we care! It's nice to see anyone getting out and doing something with this turbo! Low 13's on 94 aren't bad at all, I've seen alot of 16g guys stuck in the high 13's haha. What kind of 60 foots were you getting?

EDIT: Checked your profile, 12's will be easy with a new clutch and anything in the low 1.7 range which is totally doable with more practice. A 1.89 isn't terrible, but you can do a lot better and take that time down quick with awd.

1990AWD said:

I doubt anyone here cares, but I went to the last track day of the year. Ran a new personal best of [email protected]. Also had a [email protected]. This is done on 94 pump fuel with a stock clutch that was slipping pretty good. A good clutch and the car would easily run 12s as it is.

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Congrats! 104 mph is high 12's mph.......

1990AWD said:

I doubt anyone here cares, but I went to the last track day of the year. Ran a new personal best of [email protected]. Also had a [email protected]. This is done on 94 pump fuel with a stock clutch that was slipping pretty good. A good clutch and the car would easily run 12s as it is.

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I said the same thing when I first started posting on this thread. You'll see a lot of 14b records talk but this isn't the "14b record chase thread", its the "14b drag race discussion". You and I are drag racing our 14b's and that is what this thread is about. Good times by the way! Traction must be nice

9!'clipseDOHC said:

I said the same thing when I first started posting on this thread. You'll see a lot of 14b records talk but this isn't the "14b record chase thread", its the "14b drag race discussion". You and I are drag racing our 14b's and that is what this thread is about. Good times by the way! Traction must be nice

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Couldn't have said it better Nate! Although the record chasing is great, it's the personal records/goals that are what keeps this thread alive and continuing.

Thanks a lot guys. I definitely think I would be in the 12s with a better clutch. 60' was a 1.892 which is my best, but the clutch slipped pretty bad, and my suspension is all stock, so it's pretty soft.

Plan over winter is to do all suspension bushings, new clutch, and possibly a 2g head and cams.

Well, bad news: looks like Im done for the season now. I was starting to get going on putting the car together today and while scraping the gasket surface of the block, I noticed an indentation in the area where the last HG/head was torched through. It's very small, but it's like a .005" deep "recess" and it would definately not seal up with a metal hg. Running it again would most likely lead to another nitrous/alky torched cyl head in that cyl. The block needs to be decked before re-used.

Frankly, even if I had the time to pull the motor/trans, break down the shortblock, have it decked, and re-assemble everything it would be kinda stupid to do so. 2 pistons have spark plug porcelain damage on the tops. One is scuffed pretty bad and has questionable ring seal. I'd rather not spend the effort to half-ass it anymore this year and don't want to risk torching the last good 2g head we have.

My plan now is to empty the engine bay & break everything down for inspection. Re-build for 2012 plans are in the works; here are some of my ideas:

• Obtain a new set of +.030 pistons in 10.5:1 compression. bore/deck block and reassemble.
• Port the 2g head, then have machine ship swap all the upgrade valvetrain & ss valves from torched head.
• Remove the fuel side of the nitrous system all together - run the nitrous dry. no backfires & nothing to clog. 1650cc injectors are enough to support 14b & 150hp of nitrous dry.
• Chop off the front framework...weld in tubing to hold up front body/rad/fuel cell. ~25lb
• Aluminum civic radiator w/ -16 lines. already have the fittings, lines, rad...just didn't have time to fab.
• Ford explorer 8.8" live axle ladder bar rear suspension. ~100lb weight loss
• Thinking about a bigger intercooler once the front frame is cut up w/ more room.
• Adding in a shiftbox setup that will auto upshift the trans at adjustable rpm.
• finally get a vacuum pump for the brakes
• shorter tires: 23.5 M&H to replace my 24.5" MT's

Sorry to hear that Nate, but it sounds like the best plan. Can't wait to see what that new setup does next year! I like the sounds of what you're planning, that explorer 8.8 rear certainly sounded more intriguing after hearing about the weight loss, any idea what that will cost you?

sbstar said:

sorry to hear that nate, but it sounds like the best plan. Can't wait to see what that new setup does next year! I like the sounds of what you're planning, that explorer 8.8 rear certainly sounded more intriguing after hearing about the weight loss, any idea what that will cost you?

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x2 how much?

I have no idea how much it's going to cost, that will be very dependent on how much fabrication work is involved. Need to really research it, I'd like to see how feasable it is to use the stock brakes and stock type shocks. Looks like chassis engineering makes a basic ladder bar kit for about $450.

Just yesterday I was looking at the updates from the build thread titled "project superman" . His car is at the fab shop getting an aluminum ford 9in rear installed with 35 spline axles and is still using the dsm rear brakes and dsm rear coilovers. Also an adapter would be needed to connect the rear u joint to the ford rear. Rear is also supposed to be ever so slightly narrower then ours from hub to hub. Pictures look beautiful and the fab shop even made it possible to convert back to the stock subframe and IRS if ever needed.
He also said it dropped roughly 100 lbs estimate.
C Dub Racing also has a thread on on this using a ford 8.8. it is very interesting to consider and I think this may also work in an auto-x car. It may allow the car to actually become loose and slide around through the corner due to the narrow rear track width. I may be wrong on this but there is only one way to find out.
The amount of ford explorers in the scrap yard are endless. Someone needs to get out and start cutting and welding.

note- Dogbox racing also did something similar using a Mustang Cobra "R" Which is an independent ford 8.8 unit.
"
Nate- Please do this and I'll send you my car to do the same thing. You are much more local then c dub racing and I dont trust leaving my car to many places. Sorry to hear about the block. I know at this point you just want to build it once and for all but couldn't you also use a composite gasket with the arp studs? I've seen many memebers claim in excess of 26 psi on 16g's with that set up and daily drive and report no issues. Im sure its not something youd like to chance exspecially with the nitrous but it could be something to consider

Yeah, I dont want to chance killing my last good cyl head for one shot at a glory pass. I can wait till next season.

Especially after iv got all these ideas in my head for upgrades and improvements. I'm also considering a change from dsmlink to aem ems. Ems has dry nitrous fueling, good auto trans control logic, on board datalogging without laptop, adjustable knock control, and more robust extra input/output versatility. Used ems's go cheap, it might only be a $100 upgrade to swap and at this point if I go higher compression and dry nitrous, I'm going to have to completely retune anyway.

DSMlink can do dry shots too, I'd hold off on the AEM until you get everything working as advertised, then make that change by itself. It takes time to get used to the AEM and getting it working well, so it can be extremely frustrating if you're still chasing other issues with the car. Once you know the car is working well, any issues that pop up are likely due to the AEM and are easier to figure out and fix. That would be my advice as far as that goes. You're close to getting the working well, I think the switch to a dry shot alone will solve most of your issues.

Regarding additonal fuel, if a 14b makes 300 hp on its own, and you're adding 150 hp with the nitrous, you need roughly 50% more fuel. Anything ~650s and up should do it. I would certainly do at least 950s of course, you want plenty of extra room, but just wanted to pount that out. 1600s (unless they are the high z version) are another pain in the ass you may not want to deal with yet.

Good luck!

95GSXracer said:

DSMlink can do dry shots too, I'd hold off on the AEM until you get everything working as advertised, then make that change by itself. It takes time to get used to the AEM and getting it working well, so it can be extremely frustrating if you're still chasing other issues with the car. Once you know the car is working well, any issues that pop up are likely due to the AEM and are easier to figure out and fix. That would be my advice as far as that goes. You're close to getting the working well, I think the switch to a dry shot alone will solve most of your issues.

Regarding additonal fuel, if a 14b makes 300 hp on its own, and you're adding 150 hp with the nitrous, you need roughly 50% more fuel. Anything ~650s and up should do it. I would certainly do at least 950s of course, you want plenty of extra room, but just wanted to pount that out. 1600s (unless they are the high z version) are another pain in the ass you may not want to deal with yet.

Good luck!

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I may be pretty rusty with AEM tuning, as I haven't been on the EMS since 2005, but I did run it in this car as well as my Evo8 and the evo had a dry nitrous single fogger on it fueled with secondary maps. It worked really well, hence why I'm considering going back to it. Also looking to have the ems shift the trans rather than buying a $100+ "shift box" and a $259 multiple adjustable RPM shift timer box. DSMlink can't do the trans without extra equipment. Also looking at a 4 EGT setup that link is unable to log. But I hear you on the "AEM complications".

I'v been running 1650cc bluemax FIC injectors all year along with that EZTune voltage box, at about 41-43% duty cycle. When I did the dry evo8 setup w/ stock turbo I had 850's and I think I got to about 75-85hp of nitrous before running out of fuel, granted, on racegas. Im currently on a "special blend" E85 but am flexible on fuel choice for next year. I'v got PLENTY of overhead in the injector department already.

My main feeling with AEM is killing a few birds with one stone:
better dry nitrous fueling
auto trans shift logic built in
EGT inputs, backpressure logging
onboard datalogging: 7lb weight loss & non destruction of my laptop

I forgot you ran it before, which changes everything of course. In that case it seems like the benefits certainly outweight the risks. I'm going to switch to ECMlink at some point on the race car, and one thing I'll really miss is the onboard logging. Ultimately though I would have a series 2 box with the AEM data aquisition box CANed to it for another 8 analog/frequency channels, as well as 3 axis g force and so on. There's a lot of stuff I want to log on the compounds. Everything is always a compromise...

Is anyone here on a high compression built motor? By high compression, I'm talking 10:1 or higher? Just curious to find out. I'm getting parts together right now for a high compression motor and plan to run a 14b to see what I can get it to do. The car is a 91 FWD Laser RS...hopefully I can strip it down pretty good once it's running good and make some respectable passes. I'm planning the build over the whole winter and into early spring...so hopefully she'll be up and running around April or May!

Seems 2.0l 6bolt pistons are hard to get over 9.0 compression and be a shelf stock normal piston. I'm looking myself to build a high comp bottom end this winter and unfortunately much of the high comp pistons are evo 7bolt or stroker stuff.

Yeah...there is one site that sells them for a 6 bolt. Can't remember the site, but they are Wiseco. They are 10.5:1. I assume they did a batch order or something. I talked to Wiseco and JE. Both are $650+ for a custom set depending on what coatings and all that you want on them. JE has an order form. The rep I talked to said to send them the compression you want along with the application and what head and setup you'll be using and they will make the pistons so your final compression is exactly what you want. I like this because I'm going to run a 2g head. The small chamber would bump the compression, so I would have to calculate how much and figure out the exact numbers and then order the right compression piston to get the right overall compression. Not to mention, I used JE pistons on my Evo that did 620whp on a Mustang Dyno with no problems!

I'm going 10:1. My last set up was that and car ran fine for almost 2 yrs til timing jumped.

Custom pistons?

Yea custom wisecos. Ordered from the store they have in dallas. I will be reusing them since they still look in good shape. Used yo be able to get em in any size, pin height or what not. But yea I'm still learning I didn't think It was bad for my 1st build. Not sure if they still do that. Been about 2 yrs or so

My black 1G is running an Al rod high compression setup and I might be breaking it in on my 14b so we'll see..

And by high compression, I'm not talking that off the shelf crap, I'm talking HIGH compression -



Here it is next to a 9.5:1 ross-

Definitely looking forward to seeing what you can pull out of it. With E85 and E98 skys the limit. Only thing holding anyone back is time and money.

Time and money for sure!

On a good note, I have my car running again...finally! I'm going to pick up my wife from work and bleed the clutch then I'll give it a test drive. I set the base timing and started getting the airflowperrev's in check, pulled a bit of timing, and I'm going to be real cautious until I feel comfortable with this motor running.

SBstar said:

Time and money for sure!

On a good note, I have my car running again...finally! I'm going to pick up my wife from work and bleed the clutch then I'll give it a test drive. I set the base timing and started getting the airflowperrev's in check, pulled a bit of timing, and I'm going to be real cautious until I feel comfortable with this motor running.

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Awesome Shane! Are the tracks still open way up north where you are?