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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
Richmond_Va.
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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I was going to answer but I thought you already bought the car? This thread reminds me of the thread "what's this dsm worth" LOL
A car that overheats on the highway with mass air flow going through the rad is a major problem if you ask me.
 
I was going to answer but I thought you already bought the car? This thread reminds me of the thread "what's this dsm worth" LOL
A car that overheats on the highway with mass air flow going through the rad is a major problem if you ask me.

No I didn't get it. I'm just trying to brake into the dsm world. Anybody in the mississippi area have a 95-99 that they want to get rid of and need a truck? :)

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Why is everybody mentioning the fans? He said right away that it is on the highway that the overheating occurs, and at highway speeds the fans are of no issue anyways. I am betting on a thermostat that is not operating properly. However, depending on how long this has been happening, that thermostat not operating properly could cause you to have water pump, radiator, and/or head gasket issues pretty quick.
 
The thing is I'm unemployed and I can't afford to drive the truck all over the place looking for work getting 13mpg. Its about a 30 min trip just to walmart. And when I do finally find work it will prob be an hour or so away and half my check would go straight into the gas tank. I have seen a few in ok shape around here for 800 or so I just don't have the extra cash.

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i can think of a few things that can be the problem. blown head gasket, bad thermostat, radiator, or even a radiator cap. $3000 sounds reasonable here b/c turbo eclipses are very rare. try to find out what the problem is and if it wont cost you much to fix it i say go for it, jst tell him to knock down some off the price since your having to fix it.
 
I honestly think that 3,000 is too much for that eclipse. you can get one in good running conditions for that same price. And by the way, if you trade your truck for it your pretty much getting ripped off.

Thanks for the input but I'm not getting that eclipse, I'm looking for a nicer one. And as for the truck, its not perfect. Its got 213k on it and needs some bodywork. I'd prob only get 3000 for it.

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Good idea on not getting the eclipse. 3k is a lot for that car when you dont know for sure whats causing the overheating. Just be patient and they will show up on craigslist.
 
I am having a similar problem, and it seems that with a new thermostat, new radiator cap, new water pump, temps between the upper and lower radiator hoses being close (at least to touch), and flushed radiator, the remaining culprit would be the head gasket.. Correct?

Also, could a leaky turbo have ANYTHING to do with this? I was told that with the appearance of bluish-grey smoke (that I kinda see, or have been persuaded that I saw) comes a busted seal that would have to be rebuilt/replaced.. Attaching my train of thought to this theory, the turbo not-working to capacity would mean the not enough air is reaching the head, which would explain why I also have a low idle..

Any thoughts at all?
 
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Alright, so today I decided it was a good idea to replace my engine coolant temp sensors (the one for the gauge and the one for the ecu). I have a 98 GS. It has been having some idle issues. After long trips it starts blowing black smoke and i always tend to smell gas in the exhaust. I read the temp sensors could cause all these. I drained all my antifreeze and replaced the sensors. After filling up the car with new antifreeze it is now overheating. It goes to about 75% on the stock gauge. I'm completely confused as to why. I read that bleeding it may be the issue, but I've done that and the heater is blowing out constant hot and I mean hot air. The gauge wasn't ever showing it was overheating before I replaced the 2 sensors. Any ideas of what I may have done?
 
Mmk, i'll have to look into getting that done, but my biggest question would be though is that the car was operating at normal temperature at the gauge before I switched out the sensors and now it keeps fluctuating. I'm not 100% convinced that the hg randomly started to go out at the same time I replaced these sensors. Definately possible though.
 
you probably got the wrong sensors which aren't allowing the fan to kick on once it reaches normal running temperatures. check to see if the fans kick on. if not i would just put the old sensors back on.
 
Yeah, I thought it might be a bad sensor as well. The fans are kicking on, so i believe I got the correct ones. I'm gonna let it sit overnight and bleed it again tomorrow morning before work since I did empty all the fluid, hopefully if air in the system is the problem, it will have worked its way to the top by then. If not, I'll probably put the put the old sensor in after work and see if I can't get a replacement to try.

Alright, so went out this morning and the fluid level was lower, so I added more and let it run for a little while with the cap off. On the way to work, it started overheating at idle again, getting to about 75% on the gauge and not moving past that. The cap was looking in bad shape, so i'm going to replace that if I can get one today. Any other ideas?
 
Yeah, I thought it might be a bad sensor as well. The fans are kicking on, so i believe I got the correct ones. I'm gonna let it sit overnight and bleed it again tomorrow morning before work since I did empty all the fluid, hopefully if air in the system is the problem, it will have worked its way to the top by then. If not, I'll probably put the put the old sensor in after work and see if I can't get a replacement to try.

Alright, so went out this morning and the fluid level was lower, so I added more and let it run for a little while with the cap off. On the way to work, it started overheating at idle again, getting to about 75% on the gauge and not moving past that. The cap was looking in bad shape, so i'm going to replace that if I can get one today. Any other ideas?

How much fluid did you lose? Like...a lot or just a little bit? I dealt with overheating quite a bit so I figured I'd chime in here. Do what the member above said and swap you old sensor back in to rule out a faulty/incorrect sensor. When the gauge gets 3/4 over to the hot side, do you notice anything visually? Is any coolant boiling in the reservoir?
I think the best thing to do is to swap that sensor out with the old one and check things visually when it's getting hot and make sure it IS actually get hot and not just the gauge telling you it is. :hellyeah:
 
1) Do you have logging software to see what the ECU is reading from the ecu-temp sensor?

2) Pressure check your cooling system. You can rent a kit for free at autozone/pep boys or wheverever else to test. Make sure to test the cap as well. A leak in your cooling system could cause overheating.

3) Silly question, but I've seen it happen. Are your fans blowing the correct way? They should be drawing air from the outside of the car THROUGH the radiator towards the motor. If they are backwards, they draw HOT air from the engine through the radiator and makes it do poorly to cool the system.
 
also there probably a Resistance for the sensor that you can test with a multi meter that are like 15 and a very valuable tool if you own a dsm. after you do a compresson test and you are still questioning the numbers if you know anyone with a shop that has a exhaust gas analyzer see how many hydrocarbons are are comming out of your exhaust when you say the so called rich mixture comes about and you can also put it over your open radiator and see if you see any hydrocarbons in there. if there is then you are getting combustion in your coolant which means a blown hg. also your old sensor could have been faulty and thats hot hot your car was running all the time before you changed them
 
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