The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

What are your HP goals, and what are you doing to reach them?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

My hp goal is 300-350 hp. I plan on not using the engine in the 1g but im building a rear engine rwd ariel atom-esque car. Its gonna be dope. Im starting with a buddies 1g n/t so I have some work to do.
680cc's
Big 16g
wally 190
SAFC
280 cams
 
New plans since car is down engine is out, upgrades, link, pistons, rods, cams, wideband, hallman mbc, 1000cc fic injectors, 18g, fmic, looking for 400 hp then my engine is going into a awd.
 
200hp @ the crank DD N/T without complicating gas mileage...
 
More Timing = More Power. Less timing = less power. Boost doesn't really make a difference if your timing is retarded like crazy.

I also used to believe this. However, in practice boost will more than compensate for any loss from ignition timing retard. I would say based on experience that +10* timing advance, in the range of say 10* to 20* timing advance, is maybe worth 30 h.p. on a 400 h.p. car. I use the rule of thumb that 1* advance is about 3 h.p. Anything thing higher than 18* timing advance the gains are very small. On the other hand, every 1 psi of boost is about 8 h.p. If I took 10* timing off the car I'd loose 30 h.p. but I could recompensate by jacking the boost up +10 psi and gain 80 h.p. back for a net gain of +50 h.p.

My buddy runs his EVO at 5* WOT timing, 28-30 psi on pump gas. Anyhow, that car is easily a 370-380 w.h.p. ride. I turned my timing down from 21* WOT to about 16* WOT, and still with the timing retard I ended up with 10-11* WOT timing on 23 psi pump gas. I notice no major loss in power and in fact the power and torque are very very nice.

A little detuning isn't a bad thing and in fact, boost is much safer on the motor than timing anyway, as long your intercooler and fuel pump are up to the task.
 
Goal:
300+ WHP Daily Driver

3" Greddy Evo 2 Cat back
2.5" Apexi N1 Downpipe
FIPK K&N
Greddy type S BoV
Greddy FMIC
DSMLINK v3
Wide Band o2

Waiting to be installed in my garage:
FIC 850CC Injectors
Walbro 255 HP + Rewire Kit
Fuel Lab AFPR
ARP Head Studs
Composite HG
MHI s16g + Rebuild
Balance Shaft Elimination
Cruise Control Delete

Not for power wise but hows this on suspension set up?

Tein SS w/damper Coil overs
Energy Suspension Polyurethane Front and Rear Bushings
Front and Rear Sway + Strut Bars don't know what kind yet basically one of the last parts of the suspension mess LOL

&Armin
 
I also used to believe this. However, in practice boost will more than compensate for any loss from ignition timing retard. I would say based on experience that +10* timing advance, in the range of say 10* to 20* timing advance, is maybe worth 30 h.p. on a 400 h.p. car. I use the rule of thumb that 1* advance is about 3 h.p. Anything thing higher than 18* timing advance the gains are very small. On the other hand, every 1 psi of boost is about 8 h.p. If I took 10* timing off the car I'd loose 30 h.p. but I could recompensate by jacking the boost up +10 psi and gain 80 h.p. back for a net gain of +50 h.p.

My buddy runs his EVO at 5* WOT timing, 28-30 psi on pump gas. Anyhow, that car is easily a 370-380 w.h.p. ride. I turned my timing down from 21* WOT to about 16* WOT, and still with the timing retard I ended up with 10-11* WOT timing on 23 psi pump gas. I notice no major loss in power and in fact the power and torque are very very nice.

A little detuning isn't a bad thing and in fact, boost is much safer on the motor than timing anyway, as long your intercooler and fuel pump are up to the task.

hmm, i'll have to experiment with this.
 
Goal 400 hp

Comp cams
Manley rods, and pistons, arp head bolts, arp mains, and rods,

Im looking at this set up, in the next few months,
Possilby comp cams, this all takes time, and money so i have time to plan
and get parts, Im happy with everything else for now, i have all the upgrades
i like, I just want a built bottom end, and a upgrade from my evo 16g turbo,
so im excited to get block from machine shop soon. And start buying parts.
 
The first goal is 400 awhp on my e316g on 93/meth. Then from there I build the drivetrain, suspension, and rest of the car up. Then is 700+ awhp stock bottom end. We'll see how it goes, but as of right now Im working on my meth setup, then adding boost and timing. Mods in profile.
 
The first goal is 400 awhp on my e316g on 93/meth. Then from there I build the drivetrain, suspension, and rest of the car up. Then is 700+ awhp stock bottom end. We'll see how it goes, but as of right now Im working on my meth setup, then adding boost and timing. Mods in profile.

Woah, stock bottom end and 700awhp? That's a lot.. Good luck.
 
The first goal is 400 awhp on my e316g on 93/meth. Then from there I build the drivetrain, suspension, and rest of the car up. Then is 700+ awhp stock bottom end. We'll see how it goes, but as of right now Im working on my meth setup, then adding boost and timing. Mods in profile.

Make sure your AAA is payed up :D
 
Ahhh crap, I forgot about this thread and I have quotes to respond to. :ohdamn: Well, I'll just have to wait until after work because my lunch is now up, unfortunately.

To be 100% honest, however - I have no idea what my setup is capable of.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My goals are to have the widest powerband possible while peaking out between 500-550 WHP
(think i'm going to need to convert to AWD because the F in FWD mean FAIL past 400hp)

Right now the mods are

engine/block:
6 bolt with ARP hardware
.020 wiseco 1400 pistons 9:1 CR
eagle H-beams
ACL race bearings
BC springs retainers
FFWD 264/272 cams
Fidanza gears

bolt ons/turbo:
PTE6776rs DBB turbo (rated 750 - shown to max out near 900hp) - wanting hx35
1000cc injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
1g NT TB w/ custom 2.75" TB elbow
2.5 intercooler piping
Griffin top to bottom core with sparco tank FMIC
-6 AN fuel system complete
2 x walbro 255hp pumps intank and parallel
prothane motor mounts
turbonetics cast T3 manifold
Tial 38mm external gate (dumped to atmosphere)
Devils Own waster injecttion (not surrently used but installed - running E85 now)
HKS ssqv (waiting to put on indutrial valve that's 44mm)
Nitrous Oxide system - single nozzle jetted to 90hp
*full 3" exhaust system - Thermal CAt-back, custom made 3" SS Dp/cat delete


drivetrain
Fidanza 9lb aluminum flywheel
ACT 2900 PP with RPS friction disk
T.R.E. Stage 2.5 trans
Quaiffe LSD

electronics:
Haltech E6X - Runs fuel/spark, controls nitrous, alky injection nd more
GReddy EBC
J&S safeguard knock detedtion system
AEM Wb02
Autometer EGT
Autometer boost
MSD DIS-II
* a really good tune :D

Previous Best was on a to4e 57 trim 438hp 396lb/ft @ 30psi, the new turbo maxed out my 1000's pretty easy and the datalogs were estimating 546hp @m100% IDC and 12.8:1 AFR's
 
Well mine have changed.

Wiseco HD Customs/Manley TT's 2.0L
BW 366 T4 matted on a Shearer Top mount
Kiggly/Kelford 288/1mm OS in the head
E85/98
Tons of weight loss
Link v3 w/ SD
Shep 4
DSS 3.5"
DSS axle bar upgrade
4 bolt swap
etc

Hoping for 150+ traps. 700whp area. Will go auto Winter 2012 and probably switch to 374 w/ 125 shot and Sinister converter.
 
ill be glad to get anything above 350AWHP ALSO im glad you guys are having fun with my farts..?..I'm Brian also BTW.. anyway im wanting at least 350 at the wheels and here is my setup. im kinda a noobie sooo if there is any parts tat i still need please let me know so i can run out and buy them.. literally. But i think i have everything

Bolt-on Modifications:
-EVO8 16g (have a 20g not sure if ill use it or not)
-stainless steel header
-tubular stainless steel O2 housing
-2.75" stainless downpipe -650 cc injectors
-all new vacuum lines
-type R BOV -3 bar MAP
- DSMlink V3
- 3 bar MAP,
- 650 cc injectors,
- knock gauge,
-IPT Performance Transmissions shift kit
-triple pillar pod with Autometer C2 45 psi boost gauge Autometer C2 air/fuel gauge -Datalogging cable with Palm M PDA and software
-FMIC
-Injen CAI
-Drop engineering motor mounts
-Stainless steel catalytic converter
-2.75" stainless cat back exhaust (ebay) "option racing"
-255LPH wahlbro fuel pump with rewire
-NGK plug wires
-Improved PCV system "2 can set up"
-MAF-T and 3" GM MAS -Apexi II SAFC ( will lose due to purchasing link)

Engine Management:
3" GM MAS w/ MAFT 3 bar MAP triple pillar pod with autometer C2 45psi boost guage. oil temp, water temp, A/F ratio, EGT gauges as well, datalogging cable with palm M PDA and software hks turbo timer, DSM link v3

Engine Internals:
-dks 272 cams
-evo 8 valve springs &retainers
-ARP head stud kit
-composite HG
-new oem pistons
-ACL mains and rod bearings
-NPR rings
-ARP rod bolts & main studs

Drivetrain Modifications: (automatic)
IPT performance transmissions shift kit

Suspension Modifications:
front and rear strut tower bar KYB GR2 struts and shocks 2 inch lowering springs



there is more but im sure im forgetting some stuff. does anyone think ill hit 350 at least??
 
1st. break the 200whp mark. Break the tsmall into mid 14's.
2nd. Next year. Just looking for solid 300whp. Evo 3, 264 cams, 650injectors, hopefully all on a rewired 190 LOL.
 
400HP or bust!

Engine:
Stock bottom end
Balance shafts eliminated
ARP headstuds
OEM MLS Headgasket
1050CC Low impedance FIC's
16G....LOL. (JUSMX141)
DSMlink
SIM stage 1 head
HKS 272's
Hopefully a custom DP made of T304 pipe....
Bosch 044 Inline fuel pump (fuel cell)
Magnus cast intake manifold
Haven't decided on an exhaust mani, will probably go custom.

Drivetrain:
TMZperformance Stage...er... custom.
Southbend kevlar clutch, Supra hub.
3bolt rear end
LSD
Steelies on Blizzaks, as usual.


Free shit:
Gutted interior
Removed AC
Removed P/S
DSM 1G Subframes
2 Extra doors
Rear seats intact
Broken rear window mod
Tiny ass front mount
External oil cooler (hanging out of le bumper)
Driver weight reduction mod (150lbs)

Extras:
Rust
shit brakes
shit suspension
 
Red = still need.

350 HP, as much torque as I can get out of a 2.0.

Boltons :
MHI E3 16g
E3 Manifold
E3 o2
Custom downpipe
Tanabe Catback
FP Intake
K&N Filter
1g Throttle Body
1g Fuel Rail
Ported 2g intake manifold
HKS SSQV

Engine Management :
GM Maf
DSM Link V3
AEM UEGO
AEM Truboost
Autometer h2o

Fuel :
JNZ Rewire Kit
Wal-bro 190 LPH
PTE 880cc Injectors

Drivetrain:
Fidanza Flywheel
Exedy Stage 2 clutch
Stock 5-speed with 16x,xxx miles. Smooth as butter.

Internals :
Delta 272s
Evo Springs and Retainers
Stock Block
ENGNBLDR valve train
 
Something similar to the AMS camshaft test car/numbers. Just a well balanced 16g setup. I'm a set of cams (either going to do 264/264 or 264/272) a FMIC, and an exhaust manifold away pretty much. The car stays right next to my buddy's 2011 5.0 (traps 112) right now (on a closed course in Mexico) so with the above mods, I'd say 115mph traps are within reach, and that's way too fast for a 1990 Plymouth Laser anyway. I must be getting old, but the car is all but useless in 2nd gear right now anyway. I don't know how I dealt with 423 wheel HP in my old fwd Laser.

Edit: This car may be the fastest PFC Fcon/GCC setup ever LOL.
 
Your still running a FCON? Dude... sell those on the antinques section of ebay and get dsm link.

I haven't seen anyone running of those old hks systems since like 2002 ish.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top