6 bolt it has the 1g cas on the passenger side.

From what I see in the picture it looks like you have a GM MAF setup on there not sure on the turbo, but the manifold could be a DNP or a knock off. The AEM TRU-BOOST is an awesome electronic boost controller, that solenoid that you posted with the little filter on it is part of the system it should have one line going into it and another line going into the internal wastegate.

couple things that could help, get a 2g throttle body elbow, your going from 3" to like 1.5" then back up, the 2g's are pretty common i even have an extra. i would get new upper intercooler pipe in the engine bay one of the welds look questionable and looks like theres WAY too many clamps and maybe even a piece of pvc pipe? remove the mount on the front of the engine near the timing belt just wasting space. you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator which mean you PROBABLY have a walbro 255 as they require an afpr can you take a picture of the injectors? also check the ecu for eprom.

also, that thing has to be a bi*** to turn as i dont think 2g's came with an manual rack , so that means he just looped the lines and eliminated power steering pump. another thing is the coolant temp sensor isnt plugged in, i could be way off since i know hardly anything about 2g's but one a 1g that would cause all sorts of problems ecspecially with startup and initial running.

also, it is most definitely a 6 bolt.

The bov(blow off valve) is vented to the atmosphere,cruise control was deleted.He did the cheap way out and filled the mounts with the rubber caulk stuff instead of prothane inserts.He could have just converted over to the 1g cas some people convert to that it doesnt necessarily mean it is a 6 bolt.

First thing I would definitely do is a boost leak test. If you don't know how here it is... IC Pipe Tester It looks like a 6 bolt from what I can see. Also It looks to me that your AEM boost controller is hooked up wrong/ not even hooked up completely. This which is probably a boost leak itself plus other boost leaks you probably have would cause you to bog after 5000 rpms and what not. Could also be a tuning issue as well though.

There's a lot going on in there.

1st picture - Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, as mentioned previously
2nd - AEM True Boost Gauge.
3rd - G4CP means your block is from a Hyundai, but a 6-bolt none the less. Post up pics of the oil pan flange on the belt side when you get a chance because I'm curious to see it.
4th - MAFT, or mass air flow translator. This is necessary to run a GM MAF.
5th, 6th, 7th - AEM Boost Control Solenoid -- as you can see, AEM is pretty handy at naming things.
8th - A Fram oil filter and your alternator.
9th - As mentioned previously, is your cruise control motor
10th - GM MAF, General Motors Mass Air Flow sensor and poorly used couplers
11th - An air filter that's seen better days, a silicon hose that leads somewhere I cannot see (it should be plugged and sealed letting no air in or out) and a hard intake pipe (pre-turbo)
12th - That's your engine bay.
13th - Missing timing cover, a strange ground strap, a 1G power steering and engine mount bracket; the clear hose on the thermostat housing should be replaced with the correct heater hose.
14th - An interesting sprocket/gear on your intake cam -- not a 2G unit but not sure what it is from either. Again, missing timing covers
15th - Your alternator.
16th - The braided line is a fuel line running from the fuel rail to the AFPR; the thing with the wires coming out is your coil pack.
17th - Fluidyne Aluminum Performance Radiator!
18th - See 16th
19th - The thing in the center of the picture is an aftermarket blow off valve; it's okay that it isn't recirculated as you have a blow through MAF. Your missing a cover for the fuse box
20th - See 10th, 11th and 19th
21st - On the left is, again, the AFPR. The intake manifold is from a 1G. Your throttle position sensor connector looks loose. Your missing a clamp for the hose running to the PCV valve.
22nd - 1G CAS and thermostat housing. Replace that clear hose!
23rd - The transmission ID code. No idea how accurate this information is, but here's the only thing on this site relating to that specific code: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/114903-resolved-transmissions-bar-codes-serial-numbers.html#post151467973
24th - Aftermarket turbo of sorts. You can search here to figure it out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/57878-what-turbo-merged-turbo-id.html
25th - Nothing new to add here except you're missing heat shields and might end up cooking that alternator.
26th - The wire tucked in between your 3rd and 4th injector plug wires is for the manifold differential pressure sensor which doesn't have a place on a 1G intake manifold. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151528335-post2.html
27th - Less than optimal end tank design on your front mount intercooler.
28th - Mismatched door handles and fart cannon sticking out the back
29th - Grass missing from the lawn; downed branches in the background... OH, the suspension looks low; perhaps some lowering springs on it.
30th - Bumper ?taped? together
31st - I either miscounted or that's it.

Ought to get you started.

19Eclipse90 said:

There's a lot going on in there.

1st picture - Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, as mentioned previously
2nd - AEM True Boost Gauge.
3rd - G4CP means your block is from a Hyundai, but a 6-bolt none the less. Post up pics of the oil pan flange on the belt side when you get a chance.
4th - MAFT, or mass air flow translator. This is necessary to run a GM MAF.
5th, 6th, 7th - AEM Boost Control Solenoid -- as you can see, AEM is pretty handy at naming things.
8th - A Fram oil filter and your alternator.
9th - As mentioned previously, is your cruise control motor
10th - GM MAF, General Motors Mass Air Flow sensor and poorly used couplers
11th - An air filter that's seen better days, a silicon hose that leads somewhere I cannot see (it should be plugged and sealed letting no air in or out) and a hard intake pipe (pre-turbo)
12th - That's your engine bay.
13th - Missing timing cover, a strange ground strap, a 1G power steering and engine mount bracket; the clear hose on the thermostat housing should be replaced with the correct heater hose.
14th - An interesting sprocket/gear on your intake cam -- not a 2G unit but not sure what it is from either. Again, missing timing covers
15th - Your alternator.
16th - The braided line is a fuel line running from the fuel rail to the AFPR; the thing with the wires coming out is your coil pack.
17th - Fluidyne Aluminum Performance Radiator!
18th - See 16th
19th - The thing in the center of the picture is an aftermarket blow off valve; it's okay that it isn't recirculated as you have a blow through MAF. Your missing a cover for the fuse box
20th - See 10th, 11th and 19th
21st - On the left is, again, the AFPR. The intake manifold is from a 1G. Your throttle position sensor connector looks loose. Your missing a clamp for the hose running to the PCV valve.
22nd - 1G CAS and thermostat housing. Replace that clear hose!
23rd - The transmission ID code. No idea how accurate this information is, but here's the only thing on this site relating to that specific code: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/114903-resolved-transmissions-bar-codes-serial-numbers.html#post151467973
24th - Aftermarket turbo of sorts. You can search here to figure it out: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/57878-what-turbo-merged-turbo-id.html
25th - Nothing new to add here except you're missing heat shields and might end up cooking that alternator.
26th - The wire tucked in between your 3rd and 4th injector plug wires is for the manifold differential pressure sensor which doesn't have a place on a 1G intake manifold. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151528335-post2.html
27th - Less than optimal end tank design on your front mount intercooler.
28th - Mismatched door handles and fart cannon sticking out the back
29th - Grass missing from the lawn; downed branches in the background... OH, the suspension looks low; perhaps some lowering springs on it.
30th - Bumper ?taped? together
31st - I either miscounted or that's it.

Ought to get you started.

Click to expand...

does the coolant temp sensor not being plugged in not matter as much on a 2g? because i believe you missed that i'm teasing!

also was the battery just sitting like that when you picked it up? like its not even flat on the battery tray let alone tied down!. you obviously know youve got some wrench turning ahead of you. but i dont notice anything too bad, i think you can clean it up really nice! and be sure to get those timing covers put on as soon as possible, check the classifieds most of us have TONS of that stuff laying around.

galantlvr34 said:

The bov(blow off valve) is vented to the atmosphere,cruise control was deleted.He did the cheap way out and filled the mounts with the rubber caulk stuff instead of prothane inserts.He could have just converted over to the 1g cas some people convert to that it doesnt necessarily mean it is a 6 bolt.

Click to expand...

there are a few other indications, the intake manifold with the 1g throttle body & elbow, the powersteering/engine mount on the side, the cas, just the looking you can tell its been swapped, even in his bellhousing he has some random non dsm bolt in it edit: SPEAKING OF , there is supposed to be a very large ground wire attacked to that nice shiny bolt on the bellhousing (unless 2g's are different) which may explain the use of the other random ground wire.

Ah, you're right. I forgot, but meant, to address that. Thanks for mentioning it (again).

The coolant temp sensor shown that isn't plugged in (the two pronged sensor) is a 1G only item. It's got the correct coolant temp sensor for a 2G (with the zip-tie around the connector and wire) where the A/C coolant temperature switch would be on a 1G.

Wow nice car. Looks like more then you could handle. A lot of reading, searching, learning ahead.

Pretty good for an inexperienced person, good stuff man, just redo the old owners doing but better!

read this link it will help understand how to tune the maf translator which is fairly simple.

MAFT Version 2.0+ Tuning Guide - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support

i think your maf translator is set wrong on a 2g that top left knob is supposed to be set at 4 and the base at 2 and he has mid and wot just about as lean as the maft will go, which isnt good means he was probably trying to compensate for a large boost leak.

O
|||| O O O O

(correct me if im wrong)
top left , is auxiliary
the 4 dip switches are maf size and type basically. which looks to be set right.
then base, low , mid , wot tuning , unless its in rpm mode.

19Eclipse90 said:

Ah, you're right. I forgot, but meant, to address that. Thanks for mentioning it (again).

The coolant temp sensor shown that isn't plugged in (the two pronged sensor) is a 1G only item. It's got the correct coolant temp sensor for a 2G (with the zip-tie around the connector and wire) where the A/C coolant temperature switch would be on a 1G.

Click to expand...

probably should have just kept my mouth shut huh?

All I gotta say is thank you very much... all of your help is just what I was looking for...now comes the hard part..learning the inside and outs of all these parts..and yes I see that it is a lot to handle but like eating an elephant it's gonna be one bit at a time.. I am going to be going through the great list posted up there by dsmwiseman and also the links and other information provided by all of you..I will keep you posted on my progress! Thanks!

Oh yea..here is a link to the other thread with the pictures of the oil pan...it wont let me post it on this thread due to space availabe I think..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/414394-sold-gs-3600-bought-gsx-3400-a.html

Replace those home depot couplers on the GM Maf before you get stranded.

Since there seems to be some gray area, for the 4G63, this is the easiest way to tell whether an assembled engine is a 6-bolt or a 7-bolt.



Your engine, however, is a G4CP. For that reason, the above picture and I'm sure most of the 6-bolt vs. 7-bolt super long discussion thread doesn't apply to your engine.

another way to tell that its a 6 bolt is by the cam gear sensor, 6 bolts are round n oval like one in ## pics n 7 bolts are sorta triangle shaped

The one pic of the cam gears, you have unmatched gears, the Exhaust is a 5 spoke, that makes it a 6 bolt 1g gear, the intake is a 5 spoke, used on the later 2g with the cam pick up sensor.

I read, so I can not confirm nor denigh, that there is a diffrence of .020 off set between the 4 spoke and 5 spoke. The car runs and fires up so that should not be an issue.

That 4 spoke cam gear is not a stock 95-96 cam gear. They don't look like that but like said above I can't tell ya if there different.

The front mount is of Greddy 18 row

97 awd talon said:

another way to tell that its a 6 bolt is by the cam gear sensor, 6 bolts are round n oval like one in ## pics n 7 bolts are sorta triangle shaped

Click to expand...

No.

First off, that cam sensor is a 1G unit, not just a 6-bolt unit. Secondly, anyone with a 2G could swap a 1G cam sensor onto their car if they really wanted to. I've said it before and I'll say it again -- intake manifolds, valve covers, exhaust manifolds, thermostat housings, cam sensors, and sometimes even the head are no way to judge what an engine block actually is with respect to 6 and 7-bolts.

BogusSVO said:

The one pic of the cam gears, you have unmatched gears, the Exhaust is a 5 spoke, that makes it a 6 bolt 1g gear, the intake is a 5 spoke, used on the later 2g with the cam pick up sensor.

I read, so I can not confirm nor denigh, that there is a diffrence of .020 off set between the 4 spoke and 5 spoke. The car runs and fires up so that should not be an issue.

Click to expand...

The later 2G models have the cam sensor in the same location as a 1G and use the same cam gear on both the intake and exhaust. The early 2G models have the cam sensor behind the gear. I wish I had a better picture, but this is what that looks like on a '95-'96 2G (top head, obviously :

Ok guys so let me get this straight (or at least I will attempt to) my block is from a hyundai sonata but essentially the same 6bolt design as the 4g63..so now for some questions
1. Is this block as well built as the 4g63?
2. Should I get a 4g63 block? (There is one available in my area rite now for $100..needs to be rebuilt)
3. If there is no need to switch.. Will I have to get g4cp specific parts for my maintenance? i.e. Timing Belt, Balance Shaft Belt, Pulley and Tensioner...this was going to be one of my first steps..
4. Should I eat the Hot Pockets or the White Castle Burgers for lunch today?
5. I recently ordered some books from amazon on the 4g63, will they be accurate pertaining to my g4cp block?
6. My oil pan has the rounded flange which according to the picture above and a link another member showed me (attached) says that it is a 7bolt with this pan design. Is this accurate, Can I have a 6bolt hyundai g4cp motor with the 7bolt design oil pan?
I am sure I have more questions but I guess I will start with that..
And I thank you once again for your help..without you guys I would be lost....alone..crying.. nah Im just playn...but thanks for the help..hmmm goin with the hot pockets

Oh yes and forgive me if some of my questions seem silly...I am new and will probably ask many questions that seem like common knowledge for a car guy.. Im learnin

How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart

knappa said:

Ok guys so let me get this straight (or at least I will attempt to) my block is from a hyundai sonata but essentially the same 6bolt design as the 4g63..so now for some questions
1. Is this block as well built as the 4g63?
2. Should I get a 4g63 block? (There is one available in my area rite now for $100..needs to be rebuilt)
3. If there is no need to switch.. Will I have to get g4cp specific parts for my maintenance? i.e. Timing Belt, Balance Shaft Belt, Pulley and Tensioner...this was going to be one of my first steps..
4. Should I eat the Hot Pockets or the White Castle Burgers for lunch today?
5. I recently ordered some books from amazon on the 4g63, will they be accurate pertaining to my g4cp block?
6. My oil pan has the rounded flange which according to the picture above and a link another member showed me (attached) says that it is a 7bolt with this pan design. Is this accurate, Can I have a 6bolt hyundai g4cp motor with the 7bolt design oil pan?
I am sure I have more questions but I guess I will start with that..
And I thank you once again for your help..without you guys I would be lost....alone..crying.. nah Im just playn...but thanks for the help..hmmm goin with the hot pockets

Oh yes and forgive me if some of my questions seem silly...I am new and will probably ask many questions that seem like common knowledge for a car guy.. Im learnin

How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart

Click to expand...

1. The block itself is, more or less, a non-turbo 4G63. As a whole, they are not exactly the same in every way, shape, and form. Keeping that in mind, don't be too eager to relate everything about a 4G63 6-bolt to this engine. Hopefully it doesn't have the original Hyundai/non-turbo pistons in it anymore.
2. Not unless you really want a backup. Why it needs rebuilt would be something to consider in that case as well.
3. I would recommend that, yes. Even though the engine is a 6-bolt, you wouldn't use a 4G63 6-bolt tensioner. Easiest way to get the correct parts is to go Hyundai. From what I gather -- and I make no claims as to the accuracy of this information -- the timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, and idler pulley are the same as a 4G63 2G 7-bolt. That's simply from running the Mitsubishi part numbers through NAPA's online "Interchange" system, obtaining NAPA part numbers for those parts, and comparing those with the NAPA part numbers of the Hyundai in which the G4CP is found.
4. Either has the potential to cause explosive diarrhea so I would stay away from both. Unfortunately this late information may be of no comfort to your current situation.
5. Accurate enough. I'm not sure exactly what information a book like that may have in it; but, in general, the engines are again, more or less, the same.
6.

19Eclipse90 said:

Since there seems to be some gray area, for the 4G63, this is the easiest way to tell whether an assembled engine is a 6-bolt or a 7-bolt.
{PICTURE}
Your engine, however, is a G4CP. For that reason, the above picture and I'm sure most of the 6-bolt vs. 7-bolt super long discussion thread doesn't apply to your engine.

Click to expand...

The picture I provided with the rounded edge on the pan flange, again, relates to the 4G63 engine only. This is the same with the link you posted last: it applies only to the 4G63. The G4CP is a different animal in this respect. Here's what it would look like behind the crank pulley/timing cover: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/335226-hyundai-4g63-head.html#post151852269.

/Round 2.

quick question about this motor.. i just picked motor up from my work running for $50. Is it a good motor to build to put in my 98 gst being that its a 2.0 6 bolt bottom end with the electronics of a 2g? thanks

Spooled420a said:

quick question about this motor.. i just picked motor up from my work running for $50. Is it a good motor to build to put in my 98 gst being that its a 2.0 6 bolt bottom end with the electronics of a 2g? thanks

Click to expand...

Sure.

one more for you... i know the pistons and rods and head components need to be changed but is the crank as tough as a true 6 bolt motor? thanks