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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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Alright like everyone is saying start with the basics. You say you have fuel do you have spark? and check all four not just one and if you say it started but you had no throttle response you need to start looking for a vacuum leak.
 
Do a complete charging system test. If you only shut your car off for a short time it shouldn't be your starter. Get some jumper cables and hook them up to your car. If your car starts you can rule out mechanical starter failure once you have the car running take a dmm digital multi meter and check voltage across the positive and negative posts you should have about 14-15.5 v if its lower then it is a problem with your alternator. Let the car run for a bit longer and shut the car off and retest across the posts a fully charged battery should have 12.7 v and if a battery has 9.7v or less it wont start. Just because the battery voltage with the car off is low doesn't mean the battery is bad it could mean its not charging that would depend on what your readings were for the battery while the car was running. keep us posted.
 
Like they said do a through check on the battery and wiring components. next . I have a kill switch that is simply a switch in my starter relay circuit. with a key i can still pop start it or roll start. So the only way to check that would be to first look for switches then get a wiring diagram and see where the nearest connector is to the hot wire or power wire going to the ignition switch.
 
I'd also have to agree with the battery connections. Be sure to check both regardless of if you think it's just the positive or just the negative or if you find something wrong with one of them. You could have something wrong with both.
 
I had a similar issue the other day, when I was messing around in the bay, I ended up pulling out the ground connector on the starter. I know you did not mess with anything, but it's a possibility. What you can do is try banging on the starter a little bit, perhaps it's stuck (had an old car that starter was going bad, and if you tapped on it a bit, it worked).
 
IF the car has alot of loose wiring, then take some time to run through all of it.
 
Well then, basically... no CEL=no computer communication... time to open that ecu and check the caps/board for starters
 
No check engine light when you first turn the key to "ON" could be a bad ecu or a bad mpi fusible link.
 
And the answer is.....don't trust Autozone to tell you which part is correct. They insisted I needed a 16869 when several starter specialty shops told me it was a 16939. I bought the one from the small neighborhood specialty shop and voila...no more grind. The AZ starter drive gears were about 1/8 inch longer than the correct one...and my old one.
 
Ok I have a new CAS and plugged it in and same issue. Fuel pressure at the rail, but the injectors aren't opening. I've double checked the wire schematic and the resistor pack and ISC aren't swapped.

So my next step is to cut off the injector clips I installed and replace them with 2G ones I found.

But before I do that, WHAT:hmm::hmm: is the possibility that my soldering job could be blocking the electrical path to the injector. Is it at all possible my soldering job is creating too much resistance and messing with the current signal to the injectors??? I will cut the new ones in, but i'd be up to the same issue if it's related to my soldering work.

Something else I thought of, but, have no idea if it's even possible:hmm: the injectors sat for 2 years until now. Could they be gummed shut or gummed up to the point of blockage. I would have thought 37 PSI on my system would be enough to clear the heads, but I don't know:sosad:

Anyway, got home for a couple of days and this is as far as I can get right now. I have business trip that's going to take me away from home for 11 days, so I'd like to have this put to bed so when I get home I can fire this up.

Thanks for the ideas and help.:thumb:
 
The odds of ALL 4 injectors sticking like that is slim, maybe one but ALL? 1 in a million. If you checked the injector wiring for resistance and there was none your soldering job is fine.

Do you happen to have a way to log IPW (injector pulse width) when the cars cranking?

:dsm:
 
I kinda wondered about the fact that all 4 gumming up, but thought I'd ask;)

As for the resistance? What would I be looking for in value? and where would I measure it?

All I've done so far is try to determine continuity and we didn't really come to any conclusions about what my findings were earlier in the post, other than that we figured it was getting continuity to the ECU plug and injector clip end, but nothing conclusive based on the strange findings on what happened when I touched the other pins while on the same injector (if that makes sense WTF)

I have a datalogger and I can set up IPW. I'll have to reset the timing and put the new CAS in and see where that leads to. I'll post that back when I get it done.

I appreciate you keeping in on this. I'm just p'd my job is getting in the way of me having fun and fixing this. can't wait for this month to be over:hellyeah:
 
The job is what pays for you to have fun and fix this, don't forget that. :thumb:

There should be ZERO resistance across the solder joint, when testing resistance it should read OPEN or
0.00 Ω.

:dsm:
 
well i bought my stater from autozone and it also is having this problem, but i also tried a used starter and put that on and it did the same thing. i think im going to take my starter to advance and compare the az one to advance auto
 
The job is what pays for you to have fun and fix this, don't forget that. :thumb:

There should be ZERO resistance across the solder joint, when testing resistance it should read OPEN or
0.00 Ω.

:dsm:

LOL I know I should be grateful I have the cash flow, just seems like every time I get close to firing this up something slows me down.

As for the resistance, AHH! just measure across the joint. I was thinking to deep:ohdamn: Thanks for the help.

As soon as I can get this little piece of info put together I'll be back.

You guys have a great weekend and thanks for all the help.

It's ALIVE!!!:hellyeah::hellyeah:

I replaced the CAS and plugged in my logger and cranked it over without the plugs in to get the IPW and it read about 15.89mS and back to zero when I stopped cranking.

I decided to put the plugs back in, just for the hell of it and she tried to light off. I pulled a 44 code for the ignition module, so I wiggled the connector and seated it, tried again and off she went. The idle is lumpy, probably due to the FIAV delete. I can live with that. Got about 70 psi on the oil pressure and temp started to rise. So all in all good first start.

I was letting it idle and it sounds kinda clunky:confused: I don't know if that's due to the BS removal or not? Can anyone confirm or deny the noise. I hope it's not something bad.

I'm heading out first thing in the morning and can't do any more to it, for 11 days so I'll have to stew, but at least I know it fires up now. Thanks for the help Gofer:thumb: and everyone else who chipped in on this.

I'll try and get video of the noise uploaded when I get back.
 
hey guys i just got a new 20g for my car ive been trying to mod the car in the order that i feel a person should but my t25 turbo started leaking oil really bad so i went ahead and just got the bigger turbo instead of buying a turbo twice.

last night i started the car and took it around the block for the first time and everything went fine no leaks or anything but this morning when i was gonna go to work i cranked the car over and it cranked over for a while and didnt start i tried it a second time and it started right up but idled really low and when i pushed the gas it died on the third try it started fine and and drove perfect i didnt think anything of it cause i really just needed to get to work but then when i was leaving work it did the exact same thing in the same exact order any ideas would be greatly appeciated thanks

also went i was installing the intake pipe i dropped it and it put a small crack in it would this cause this
 
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1st, fix the crack... if you cant weld it pay someone to. And do you have a 255lph fuel pump, injectors, afpr, and the other necessary supporting mods? What about exhaust?
 
1st, fix the crack... if you cant weld it pay someone to. And do you have a 255lph fuel pump, injectors, afpr, and the other necessary supporting mods? What about exhaust?

i actually do not have the mods yet im goin to get them in about a week but as of now no i got the turbo cause my other one started smoking really bad i have it set at 10 psi but could that still be the problem
 
Well.... I'm not the greatest on maitenance, so hopefully someone else will chime in for me there, but youre doing way too much power for what you have right now man. Do you have stock exhaust all the way through?
 
no i have a 2.5 inch exhaust and like i said i had every intension of doin it the right way and get all that stuff first and i already had the motor/head rebuilt but then the t25 took a shizzy and i bought a rebuilt 20g from someone on here for cheap so i took it ya know
 
Yeah i guess but i wouldnt turn up the boost high at all cause youre gonna have some mad fuel cut until you get the fuel pump and afpr in. And thats pretty big injectors... Is it your dd?
 
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