i don't see why you would need a new fuel rail? the stocker flows plenty fuel. What are the plans for the car?

also i don't see an afpr in that list. you'll need one if you want that 255lph

first thing i would do is get trans work done imo. if youre looking to do modifications its a must because those things are weak and it will save you alot of headaches in the future. had each trans take a dump on me in all 3 of my 2g gst's back in the day, all had minor bolt ons with less than 90k miles.

My plans are just a fast street car. I'm going to take it to high school raceday for my senior year. My buddies and me are all building street cars. One has an 86 fierro, and one a 1g talon, anther is doing a 1g supra. Yes i forgot to add the afpr. And the fuel rail is just to add some color to the engine bay .

Holy crap your winning the lottery by graduating!

Its a long story but when i turned 18 i moved out and im in my senior year(i started school late). My mom is saving child support since i moved out and i get it for my grad present. Should be about $5000

britdog said:

Its a long story but when i turned 18 i moved out and im in my senior year(i started school late). My mom is saving child support since i moved out and i get it for my grad present. Should be about $5000

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So she's giving you what is rightfully yours as a present.

yeah but ill be gettin more money from the rest of my family so i can hopefully fill all these mods. So far without the tranny build its around $3000. thats if i get my buddies fmic that he isn't using. and then with whatever else i get I'm hoping to get the tranny rebuilt

by goals i meant hp goals time slip goals..you could just paint the fuel rail for color and spend the money else where imo..

A 1g supra? That is a hell of a rare car. Pretty fugly and slow too. You sure its not a mk II or mk III? A mk I would be late 70s era.

This is a 1st gen :



116 hp and 2800 lbs.

As far as your build, unless you just want the fuel rail for eye candy I would stick with the stocker. I would also recommend a different wideband, if I had researched before I bought mine I wouldn't have gotten the AEM due to setup and compatibility issues with dsm link. I would also suggest going with the biggest injectors in your price range. 780s are fine, but if you can get 880s, or 950s for the same price why not? That just leaves you room to grow without having to buy the same part again. Your also going to need an AFPR with that wally 255. And check into getting a rewire kit as well.

Edit:

I would also suggest a fmic, or meth injection if your going to up the boost on that 16g any.

Ok, Im gunna be the downer, but only because going fast / vehicles only get you so far. I warn you I couldn't resist the temptations, but I am now kicking myself for not holding out a bit longer. Take what I say for its face value, I respect everyones right to do what they want with their money, thats why its THEIRS.

BUT! $5000 towards parts is going to depreciate almost immediately, to almost nothing. Have you considered what your plans are past high school? Thats a pretty good chunk of change towards an education that might one day make your parts purchases a heck of a lot easier.

Downer ^

I'm with rvaughn on this one. Look into college, it was hands down the best move in my life. Fast cars and money will come in the future if you play your cards right.

What i am looking for is around 18psi of my 16g. I want to build over 300hp. I'm also looking at the evoIII big 16g instead of what i have now which is the small 16g.

Just keep the small 16g, it will be perfectly sufficient for only 18psi or 300hp.

Honestly with your build, I would ditch the cam gears,the fuel rail, AEM Wideband and the trans temp gauge. If you really want color in the engine bay get your stock one powder coated. For the 255 I would add in a rewire. For the wideband I would get the LC1 just because it has the programmable outputs and I think it works a little better with link.

If you are truly set on the AEM gauges you might as well get the plug and play AEM ecu and get the 6 in 1 gauge they offer.

IS your car an automatic? If so then I would leave the temp gauge on there, the automatic transmissions have shown they can be pretty beastly and I would take off the rebuild.

With the money you save from not buying the AEM stuff I would buy some cams either HKS 272s, FP 2s, or a set of the Deltas

Future plans when i get my grad money
tranny rebuild
dsmlink
percision 780cc injectors
walbro 255 fuel pump
Fuel Pump rewire
VRSF intercooler
FP2 Cams
aem tru boost
LC1 Wideband
triple gauge pod
dba street slotted rotors front
dba street slotted rear rotors
hawk plus front brakes
hawk plus rear brakes

Didnt see anything about a downpipe. Id strongly suggest that, you said o2 dump and catback but downpipe is almost more important. Also id say unless you do alot of freeway driving or plan to circuit race, dont waste the money on rotors and brakes, youll most likely also have to grt rims and would probably drop 2 grand on that alone. Personal opinion but 2 grand is alot towards performance

yes its an auto which is why i want the trans temp gauge. and the catback came with the car its a bomz racing and I'.'m pretty sure the owner said it had a high flow down pipe. the car already has rims. and its going to be a daily driver that can really smoke some ass

and the tranny rebuild is so my overdrive will work. it slips into neutral when overdrive is on