The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support ExtremePSI

SonySlave's Auto AWD 1G running 10s @ IFO Seattle 2011

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SonySlave

15+ Year Contributor
967
74
Jun 24, 2004
Pasadena, Maryland
Just thought I'd throw up a few videos from last weekend's Import Face-Off at Pacific Raceways near Seattle. Ran pretty well but was totally outmatched in the Forced Induction Pro class. Should have the items necessary to run Forced Induction Sport at IFO Woodburn later this month and I should be a lot more competitive there. This car is amazingly consistant and has been running low-mid 10s all year long. Ran a new best 60' of 1.48. Mods are in my profile and it's all up to date.

Thanks as always to English Racing! Without them, my car would still be in pieces!! Also thank you to Metro Transmissions in Woodland, WA for building me one badass auto trans!

ENJOY!!!

SonySlave's Auto AWD 1G - Timing Error @ IFO Seattle 2011 - YouTube
SonySlave's Auto AWD 1G - [email protected] @ IFO Seattle 2011 - YouTube
SonySlave's Auto AWD 1G - [email protected] @ IFO Seattle 2011 - YouTube

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Great runs!! I think if you can stiffen up the suspension with better shocks and struts the 60ft time will drop into the 1.30's range. how big of a shot are you using at the line to spool up?
 
I think we set it up for a 65? I will have to look in my desk and see what jets are missing :)

Congrats on the runs mike, hopefully next year you dont have to run 8 second cars and can get into another class.
 
I think we set it up for a 65? I will have to look in my desk and see what jets are missing :)

Congrats on the runs mike, hopefully next year you dont have to run 8 second cars and can get into another class.

My plan, Aaron, is to come down to the shop before the next event and I'm going to make the car legal for the Forced Induction Sport class. As well, a carbon fiber hood is already on the way, I have another wastegate spring that I'm going to throw in so we can turn the boost up some more (MBC is maxed right now at 28psi), and I hope to have a Dynatek ARC-2 by then as well for its launch control feature. I'm hoping these additional mods will lower the 60's and increase top end power.

Myles is going to have some work to do in Woodburn... :shhh: :p
 
My plan, Aaron, is to come down to the shop before the next event and I'm going to make the car legal for the Forced Induction Sport class. As well, a carbon fiber hood is already on the way, I have another wastegate spring that I'm going to throw in so we can turn the boost up some more (MBC is maxed right now at 28psi), and I hope to have a Dynatek ARC-2 by then as well for its launch control feature. I'm hoping these additional mods will lower the 60's and increase top end power.

Myles is going to have some work to do in Woodburn... :shhh: :p

Dynatek sells rpm limiter boxes that aren't cdi. I've been wanting to try one since they are a fraction of what the ARC-2 costs but I already have the CDI box.

Dynatek Performance Electronics - Accessory Rpm Limiters

EDIT:
If you configure the unit for single cylinder (1 firing even per crank revolution) then you can effectively half the operating range of 6000-12,000 to work from 3000-6000rpm. This is because DSM's fire twice per crank revolution in waste fire mode.

Instructions:
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DRL300.pdf
 
Dynatek sells rpm limiter boxes that aren't cdi. I've been wanting to try one since they are a fraction of what the ARC-2 costs but I already have the CDI box.

Dynatek Performance Electronics - Accessory Rpm Limiters

EDIT:
If you configure the unit for single cylinder (1 firing even per crank revolution) then you can effectively half the operating range of 6000-12,000 to work from 3000-6000rpm. This is because DSM's fire twice per crank revolution in waste fire mode.

Instructions:
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DRL300.pdf

The ARC-2 is already on the way. I figured since the ARC-2 works really well as a CDI and kp116 has had such good luck with the launch control on his that it would be a win-win regardless. Lucas also used to use the DSMLink clutch cut and it worked ok, but once he switched to the MSD DIS-2 box, it worked a lot better and way more consistant.

Thanks for the link though for sure!
 
Congrats on the times....The 3065 is a fast spooling turbo..Have you tried any other cams beside the Kelfords to brake boost the car without a shot ?
 
Congrats on the times....The 3065 is a fast spooling turbo..Have you tried any other cams beside the Kelfords to brake boost the car without a shot ?

No I haven't tried any other cams. Jeff Bush was thinking I'd probably gain spool and power from a set of GSC S2s but I haven't really been given a reason to change the Kelfords yet. Yes I have tried stalling on converter only and even with the big billet converter I still have issues. It will do it eventually but it would take probably 15-20 seconds of constant stalling to do it which is way too long to wait. I only have an 8.5:1 2.0L and I compete on pro tree usually so nitrous is a must for me, which is fine since it's really easy to use.
 
Great times, I had a 3065 as an old set up, and loved spool up on it. I have a bit more compression, and am 2.4 though. Would have loved to have had that turbo on an auto car with my setup though.
 
Great times, I had a 3065 as an old set up, and loved spool up on it. I have a bit more compression, and am 2.4 though. Would have loved to have had that turbo on an auto car with my setup though.

Yeah I really do love this turbo. I'd love to run a 2.4L. The issue with running a 2.4L with a big turbo and the automatic is that you are limited in RPM range. 7500rpm or so. With the autos, you really need to rev a bit higher than a manual car to take into account the higher RPM drop that autos have between shifts. I rev my 2.0L out to 9000rpm to take the RPM drop into account. Much lower than that and it falls out of the 3065's efficiency range and have to build boost again.

An idea that Lucas had was to build a long rod 2.4L with maybe 10:1 pistons. The long rod would give you the 9000rpm rev limit AND give you the extra low end grunt that could potentially spool a bigger turbo like mine with a billet converter without nitrous. Just a theory but I wouldn't mind trying in the future.
 
I only have an 8.5:1 2.0L and I compete on pro tree usually so nitrous is a must for me, which is fine since it's really easy to use.

What RPM do you engage the nitrous? I want to put a larger turbo on but I am absolutely horrified to turn the nitrous on at 3000rpm and turn it off at 4800rpm to get on the stall. I've never used the stuff and just imagine a big intake backfire and blowing the engine the first time. Are you running a dry or wet shot when turning it on that low?
 
I lose about 2000rpm on the shift, and boost drop is almost non-existent. It may lose 3-5lbs, but that comes back in like 1 second.
 
What RPM do you engage the nitrous? I want to put a larger turbo on but I am absolutely horrified to turn the nitrous on at 3000rpm and turn it off at 4800rpm to get on the stall. I've never used the stuff and just imagine a big intake backfire and blowing the engine the first time. Are you running a dry or wet shot when turning it on that low?

IIRC it comes on at 3600rpm and shuts off at 4800rpm and the DSMLink clutch cut engages at 5400rpm. I don't have my logs handy so I cant recall for sure. It's a wet shot.

I lose about 2000rpm on the shift, and boost drop is almost non-existent. It may lose 3-5lbs, but that comes back in like 1 second.

You also are only running an HTA68 which has an efficiency range at a lot lower RPMs than my 3065. All I'm saying is that we have tried shifting at lower RPMs and did not have very good results.
 
Nice passes man, the car sounds great! Do you mind sharing your tires and suspension combo? Is your center diff welded?

What RPM do you engage the nitrous? I want to put a larger turbo on but I am absolutely horrified to turn the nitrous on at 3000rpm and turn it off at 4800rpm to get on the stall. I've never used the stuff and just imagine a big intake backfire and blowing the engine the first time. Are you running a dry or wet shot when turning it on that low?

I've been using the silly spray to get on the stall for a few months now. I use Jackal and have it set to spray nitrous at 2300rpm and a turn off at 14psi of boost. Started with a 50 shot wet and have been running a 75 wet shot for the past month.




Edit: SonySlave, I just checked your profile and see that the answers to my questions are all there. I'm not used to people here having such a detailed mod list in the profiles LOL.
 
I was running a 2.4 with a gt4294 1.01 JB on a tired standard 8.8:1 wiseco piston motor. Hit it with a 40 at 3k, leave at 10psi and shifted at 8ish sometimes 8500. Never dropped out even shifting at 7500. It neverMotor had 8 years on the same pistons rods, 4 1/2 5 on new rods and main bearings because the crank snapped but reused the internals.

Rod bearings were perfect, and I mean perfect. I figured they would show some wear after 5 years, going from a 5spd car, spinning 1st and 2nd popping off the limiter at 8900, to a auto with a 40 shot. Car never even seen more then straight 93 octane. Just food for thought.
 
In regards to the suspension set up, do you have any issues with the tires rubbing on the strut perches?

Yes, the tires do definitely rub on the spring perches, but it is extremely light, only in the front, so not really an issue at all. Usually they only rub when the wheel is turned hard to one side such as when pulling off the track after a run and sometimes in the pits. I've never heard it happen but I have seen some very light rub marks on the insides on the front tires.
 
Awesome, first dsm I saw run a 10 second 1/4 in person, nice guy to talk to....Love seeing this thing get faster and faster.
 
My plan, Aaron, is to come down to the shop before the next event and I'm going to make the car legal for the Forced Induction Sport class. As well, a carbon fiber hood is already on the way, I have another wastegate spring that I'm going to throw in so we can turn the boost up some more (MBC is maxed right now at 28psi), and I hope to have a Dynatek ARC-2 by then as well for its launch control feature. I'm hoping these additional mods will lower the 60's and increase top end power.

Myles is going to have some work to do in Woodburn... :shhh: :p

At what boost do you launch the car at ?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top