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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
when you try to start it does it make any clicking noises and also is the fuel pump in it aftermarket because if so, if you ran out of gas on a fuel pump such as a walbro u might have burnt it out...
 
I have been doing a little reading, since I can't get to touch the car for a few days as I'm on the road. In one article, it talks about a guy who couldn't get fuel or spark and it was stated that he might unplug the ISC to see if the motor would start. I have spark, but not getting fuel, I was wondering if the ISC could cause problems. I have done a FIAV delete and at one point re wired it back in as I had done the non pigtail conversion and didn't like it so went back.
But would the ISC cause no injector pulse? I'm trying to find ideas to try out once I get home. The schematic does show routing for the injectors going through the ISC back to the ECU.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Hi, thanks. It definately has gas...

No noises. AAA checked the battery, plenty of power there..It's acting as if it's in anything other than "park" or "neutral" and when I go to turn it over all the dash lights come on but doesnt even attempt to turn over

Ok thanks, I'll give that a try... It's got some after market alram to, tried fooling with the valet and everything still no luck..
 
you can try to disconect the negative battery cable from the car for a few minutes. Hook it back up. If it is alarm related that should re-set the alarm. I know it did with my car. Is there any corrosion on any of your battery terminals/posts? Have you tested to see if your getting any power from your battery to your starter?
 
Thanks for the help. It ended up being the ecu was bad. Took it to a local tv repair man and he fixed my traces and put new capacitors in for 50 bucks. Runs like a champ now. Thanks again!
 
No I have not. I need to figure out where terminals 6 and 8 are, and then I'll do that and post the results
 
See if your getting power to the starter I think you may have damaged it. The starter turns the crank "but the crank is already turning". Start there!! Don't mess with the interlock or alarm. Cause then your gonna be chaseing your tail and driving yourself crazy if you set the alarm or miss Aline the interlock without knowing!
 
...what I was gonna to say with all of them codes firing up at yas .... bad ECU.

To prevent this from happening is to undo the negative cable from the battery when you check sensors, for if the sensor plug touches ground, it will blow the traces on the ECU momboard. the plug has voltage coming from the ECU and if that voltage hits direct ground, traces are the first to blow out.

been there and done that, why I'm tellin' yas this. Good luck-DSM
 
I looked it up in my manual, since mine is a 6 pin. I tested them, and both of my MAF sensors (the original one, and the junkyard one) tested the same. The resistance was supposed to be 2.3-3 KOhms, and it was 1.8 KOhms. I guess both are bad?
 
Alright guys quick update. I got 2 power transistors from the junkyard tested both of them out using the light bulb test and they both passed. Installed one in my talon and still no spark on the 2 cylinders. I then checked my original power transistor and it also passed. Swapped the coils so coil A (passenger side coil) was now on coil B side (drivers side) and still i have no spark from that coil. But the old coil B in the coil A spot is firing now. So i know both coils, the ptu, plugs and wires are good. the car is running a 1g cas but still utilizing the 2g crank sensor since the car does not have dsmlink. Anyone have any clue as to what i should check/replace next?
 
Swapped the coils so coil A (passenger side coil) was now on coil B side (drivers side) and still i have no spark from that coil. But the old coil B in the coil A spot is firing now.

It's a little confusing the way you worded it, but I take it that when either coil is plugged into one particular side, it will work.

So if both coils are fine, what's the next thing that goes to the coil? What powers the coil? Just work backwards until you get to the source. You're almost to the end already.\

I don't personally know enough to be specific, but maybe it just seems obvious from my perspective. Maybe I'm missing something. Good luck bra

One of the wires or connectors that goes to the coil, perhaps? I'm curious now, I'll have to check this out when the Sun comes out.
 
i jus got my car from a kid that says it needed a fuel pump, which it didnt. i dont know why he said it did but i installed a walbro 255lph in it. crank it over numerous times no start. used either down the head to try an help and it didnt work. i tried coast staring it and it seemed like it ran but had no throttle responce whatsoever. :confused::notgood:
 
Sounds like something else besides a fuel pump. ARe you getting fuel to the rail, check for voltage at the connector, is your fuel relay any good, i would test it, did it run before you bought it?
 
yeah theres fuel to the rail, and he said he drove it once when he had it an it ran good, real good infact. an i seen it run when he went and checked it out which is why im so confused
 
Idk, it ran but now its got problems could be anything did you drive it before you bought it, again i think your going to have to dig into other things maybe causing issues since you just got it.
 
Thanks for the responses. The wiring to the coil packs and to the ptu is goos. i know that the ecu sends a signal to fire each coil does anyone know how to check the ecu without tearing it apart
 
Make sure he installed the fuel pump correctly. Check timing and compression, check tune up parts.
 
might as well start with the basics. Does the check engine light come on and the either stay on or shut off when you turn the key on? If it does, there is a chance the ecu is ok. If it does, check to see if there are any codes stored.
 
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