The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Automatic launching questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bricktop

10+ Year Contributor
281
3
Aug 24, 2009
Corydon, Indiana
Anyone care to share tricks how they stopped pulling through the lights stalling up?:D
I know that the obvious stuff will help good pads-rotors, braided brake lines, extended pedal ect.
How about vacuum pumps? are you running one? How is it set up?
 
If its worth anything to you, I would always put the car in neutral and rev it a few times while I would hold the break down as hard as I could, then go to drive and build boost from there.. Although not big turbo by any means, I was able to launch at 19-21psi on the 14b/7cm combo with the small brakes..
I guess a staging break would definitely help if you really wanted to go that route
 
A 5spd ecu will help you brake boost as long s your brakes can hold on..

Upgrading pads is a good idea as well..
If your using a 14b, 16g as long as your brakes can hold the car back the longer you can stall up..You can get above 3k on the stock converter, with good brakes..


Edit: I just checked your profile and your running an hy35..That's a large enough turbo to be concerned about..Get the 5speed ecu, so you can brake boost as long as needed...For the track some uto's are running nitrous to stall up high enough to launch with boost..I do not suggest using nitrou on the street..

Anti lag could help but nitrous is easier..There is also a restalled converter, and larger converter..
 
It's true..The auto ecu can and will retard timing throwing off the launch..So a 5 speed ecu takes that out of the equation..

IF you didn't know that about the uto ecu, it's a nice little tidbit to remember..

You can also swap in 450's and the manual fpr as well if you really need the extra 20 cc's of fuel..I say 20 cc's cause 1g 450's only flow about 410 cc's on the manual fuel pressure...Most people just use dsmlink, afpr, and larger injectors..But it's nice the auto guys can get a little extra fuel using stock parts..

What is the E931 code for those of us(me) who don't know what that is??
 
It's true..The auto ecu can and will retard timing throwing off the launch..So a 5 speed ecu takes that out of the equation..

IF you didn't know that about the uto ecu, it's a nice little tidbit to remember..

What is the E931 code for those of us(me) who don't know what that is??

I haven't played around with the dsms in a few years but now I recall the timing difference

E931 is basically 5spd ecu code
 
It's true..The auto ecu can and will retard timing throwing off the launch..So a 5 speed ecu takes that out of the equation..

IF you didn't know that about the uto ecu, it's a nice little tidbit to remember..

You can also swap in 450's and the manual fpr as well if you really need the extra 20 cc's of fuel..I say 20 cc's cause 1g 450's only flow about 410 cc's on the manual fuel pressure...Most people just use dsmlink, afpr, and larger injectors..But it's nice the auto guys can get a little extra fuel using stock parts..

What is the E931 code for those of us(me) who don't know what that is??

The stock auto fpr is rated at 42lbs, and the manual at 37lbs. stick with the auto one for more fuel.
 
One thing that really help out was pulling the timing back to 5*ATDC through antilag wired up to the clutch cut wire for ecmlink. I have it wired to the brake switch through a relay so when its depressed and TPS meets the parameters it pulls a lot of timing to help it hold at the line and your not putting all that stress on the drivetrain trying to hold back all that torque. Release the brake and the timing ramps right back up!
 
To launch my car, I use:

- Stock 2-piston front calipers/1-piston rears with cheap Raybestos pads and SS-braided lines
- Vacuum pump tee'd into the brake booster line and wired into the brake pedal switch
- ECMLink clutch-cut set to activate and pull timing at 5500rpm, also wired into the brake pedal switch

My whole auto setup is in my profile. It's all up to date. At ~3000lbs with me in the car, so far this setup at 28psi has net me 2 10.38 passes, countless 10.4x and 10.5x passes, countless 1.5x 60's and one 1.48 60'. Amazingly consistant. I do plan on getting a Dynatek ARC-2 ignition box and start using that for my launch control instead of the ECMLink clutch cut as I've seen a number of times that the ignition boxes work a lot better.
 
I haven't played around with the dsms in a few years but now I recall the timing difference

E931 is basically 5spd ecu code

So lke an ecu reflash kinda coded thing..That's cool

A vacuum pump makes a world of difference.

Vacuum pump ehh

The stock auto fpr is rated at 42lbs, and the manual at 37lbs. stick with the auto one for more fuel.

Yes the auto fpr would flow 450cc's but if you have no way to tune, like with ecmlink..That your going to run richSticking wotht he 5 speed ecu and manual fuel pressure is a just using stock parts to get the right tune, just by swapping parts..

Smaller converter

What the size on the stock converter then..Cause I think there are 10 inch converters(aftermrket)..
 
Wow this took off!
Bud92GSX- Yea I have a Chipped ECU with Ostrich and Jackal. No retard. Also I'm runnin 1000 cc Injectors with an Aeromotive FPR.

A vacuum pump makes a world of difference.

:sneaky:Thats what I have been reading. I'm also about 30 miles from you across the Shermin Minton. I used to run a Fox body mustang with a T-76 that saw plenty of action on 13th and River road. But, that was almost 10 years ago LOL.

Good stuff KP and SonySlave. I think I may have found something that will work great on the cheap. It seems that 99 to current Ford Powerstrokes use an electric vacuum pump for the HVAC and 4x4. It pulls 21 inches and can be bought for less than $80.

.I do not suggest using nitrou on the street..

.

:D Why?
 
Curious if anyone is using the Hella Vacuum Pump from Summit since they claim a 29" assist which would be a big help even over the neutral blip.

A smaller torque converter is ideal, especially for the street. I've been using the Sinister Speed 10" for years and it's great.

A 2 Step setup via V3 Ecmlink etc would take you even further.
 
In my car and in sony slaves car we use a mini air compressor for our pumps, they inexpensive and work wonders, mine pulls about 27in of vac in about 1 sec. they wired in off the brake pedal for activation. if you still on stock calipers use hawk racing pads they work wonders.
 
In my car and in sony slaves car we use a mini air compressor for our pumps, they inexpensive and work wonders, mine pulls about 27in of vac in about 1 sec. they wired in off the brake pedal for activation. if you still on stock calipers use hawk racing pads they work wonders.

Really? An air compressor? Have a link?:thumb:
Edit, like what mini truckers use for airbags?
 
Yea I have a Chipped ECU with Ostrich and Jackal.


:hellyeah: :hellyeah: :hellyeah: :hellyeah:


I'll keep my eye on this thread. You guys talking about pulling timing down to 5*, are you guys on an aftermarket converter? If I pull my timing down to 5* it takes me forever to stall up this 16G. I had to give it a little more timing advance up to 11-15* and it stalls the 16G up within 3-5 seconds. But I'm on the stock converter. Put, I've only ever pulled through the brakes whenever I got careless. Usually if I stomp on the brakes hard enough and hold the e-brake up, it'll stay. With that said, there has been a few times it decided to just go with or without my permission. :p



I've debated about using a small 50-75 shot of nitrous and just spray out of the hole for the first 60' or so, though. I know a lot of Auto guys that do that with great results.
 
I've got my timing pulled back to about 8* when the car is stalling up. I use a 75 wet shot activated by the FPS, turns on at 2250rpm and turns off at 14 psi of boost. I'm getting ready to start playing with a brake switch and grounding timing pin on the launch. I'm using some cheapo vatozone pads on stock 2 piston calipers. As long as I give it a good couple revs in neutral while standing on the brake pedal (and holding the e-brake) I can hold the car back. I've seen the hx35 build 30psi on the line without pulling through, however, I try not to do that in fear of hurting my tranny.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top