Ok will do ill post with the results .. And dont worry all info is appriciated. Thanks!

could be a bad fuel filter, or maybe injectors are clogged, spark plug wires?

I have a friend that owns a 95 Eclipse GST. We have to usually jump start the car but now we have to push it with the car to get started, it still struggles while doing that. He has some kind of a leak but dnt remember from where.We checked the starters and they work,we even took one off his other GST,and still had to jump start. We also tried jumper cables. My best opinion was that he has a killswitch, he told me that the guy did have a alarm on it. The car does not crank, it acts like if the battery is dead. The battery work of course because the lights turn on and tried to turn it on with the jumper cables. His car smells a lot like gas. Hope all this info helps. If it is a killswitch then can you guys tell me how I can take it off?

Will the car start on its own after its jump started?

If you have a multi-meter check for parasitic draw, if it ends up being the kill switch there should be some kind of odd reading on the battery.

I'd also test the battery and the alternator to make sure.

How are the grounds? I had a bad ground on my battery and everything would work 100% but the car would not start at all, it wouldn't even attempt it til I would jiggle it around a few times then it would start up totally normal.

As for the gas smell, I can't really think of anything that wouldn't cause an issue while push starting also. I was going to say possible fuel leak, bad fuel pump, or a bad gasket for the fuel pump but none of those would make sense if the car starts when pushed. However the gas smell could be a different issue all together and it may be one of those things.

Remove both ends of the large battery cables and clean both them and what they attach to with sandpaper. Then retighten securely. Also there should be separate negative cables on the battery negative post - one to firewall and one to a starter mounting bolt.

Once I jump start it and turn off, if I want to turn back on I would have to jump start it again. The car has a lot of lose wiring. Idk if it will be the battery because like I said i used the jumper cables and had it on their for like 5 minutes but still nothing.

The car has a lot of loose wiring

Click to expand...

wooo..."spiderweb" wiring - dangerous stuff to find!

Do the battery maintenance like Rallye mentions - period.

Yeah I might as well service the whole thing

all this info is going to give me something to do this week because i am also having the same problem. used 3 starters and did the same thing, its starts real easy just makes bad noises. when i changed the starter the little teeth i could see looked fine but who knows. im going to do a lot on this post and hopefully it fixes my problem.

You can have a brand new battery but if the connections are poor it won't crank. Even 0.1 ohm in the cables/connections will prevent cranking yet the lights will work.

Yeah thata the power transistor. Im hoping to get a replacement tomorrow. Also the injectors all work and the fuel filter and pump are both brand new.

update : got it running. now there's a new issue

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/413287-1991-eclipse-running-issue.html

Did ya ever get it figured out?

how did you get it running? you cant just leave everybody hanging.

messed with firing order, distributor timing, and MAF sensor.. it would go back and forth between the correct firing order working and not working. correct is 1342 from the bottom, clockwise. when that didnt work, rotating all the wires counterclockwise did. making the firing order 2134 from the bottom clockwise. as it sits now, the firing order is correct

I bought a new battery last month and the guy said the car has been draining the battery. so i want to start my car and all i got is a clicking noise the lights when i tried turning them on they took a couple seconds and then the brights were super dim. Do you think its a dead battery? alternator? starter? the radio came on the boost gauge turned on. The past couple days the headlights have been flickering the dash light flickered and boost gauge. im not sure what is wrong with it.

starter grinding is normally from loose bolts or a chewed up flywheel. esp if you got a new starter.

p.s. my buddy had this problem from his starter bolts backing out on him and it coming loose. we found out that main bolts from a 6 bolt block have the same thread and work fantastic for holding it in place with a little loctite

sounds like it drained the battery again. this could be caused by a bad ground or a small short to ground some where. check your ground wires to the battery along withe the positive wires to the starter and alternator are good. if they are check all fuses and wires to any added electronics (ie boost gauge, aftermarket radio) if any of them are corroded or damaged they might be draining your battery. also check that when the key is off all the lights and electronics are off.

Is there a way to test the injector caps for voltage without the engine running.

Also would a faulty CAS, cause the engine to not start at all or just not run smoothly. I'm pretty much down to these 2 things causing my engine to not start.

This is a brand new rebuilt engine and I've tested everything I can think of? ohms at injectors MPI, fuel pump, spark at plugs, but can't get this engine to fire off. turns over good, but not ignition.

Please guys someone think of something.

Thanks.

Check the voltage of the battery from the terminals with a multimeter after letting it sit overnight without the car running... If it's lower than normal, say below 11 volts for example, then most likely as previously stated you have a short or drain somewhere that's leaking out some current while your car is off and there is not enough to start the car. This seems logical since other electronics in your car are acting up as well.

However, if you check the voltage after letting it sit overnight and it is as a normal level for a new battery which should be around 11.5 volts or above. Then i would say it is definitely a ground issue. If you have a loose ground connection say from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis, it could definitely cause issues with other electronics inside your car and prevent your battery from being charged to it's full capacitance. Make sure ALL ground connections are tight and secure first, then most likely you should be good to go.

A bad CAS can most definitely prevent the motor from starting. If you pull the CAS and spin it by hand, with the key in the ON position, it will pulse the injectors. Doing this you can also check for correct CAS operation however, I suggest you turn your motor to TDC that way everything's lined up when you put the CAS back in. Here's a link to test the CAS by spinning it, once again it will pulse the injectors too.

How To Test A 1g CAS

Ok did what you said. Here's my situation. I rewired the CAS a few months ago, during the pre build stuff. The old wires were cracked and bare so I pulled the CAS apart and redid the wires. I tested it and seemed to be gettng the proper 0 to 5volt fluctuations and set the cams and #1 to TDC.

I also cut and soldered in new injector caps.

SO..after pulling the CAS out and turning it by hand while plugged in, I get the buzz of my FPR and see the return line vibrating as fuel is obviously being pushed around. I can't hear any distinct clicking from the injectors. I have the cover off the CAS and the hallman plate is visible and I watched the plate to match up the fuel pressure rise as the 4 outer gaps pass between the optical and sure enough I get a rise in fuel pressure and buzz from the FPR as the 4 gaps pass through.

Now, I figured I'd have fuel vapor in the cylinders if the injectors are pushing fuel in, so I took out the plugs and got a little mist in the 3 & 4 cylinders, but nothing in 1 & 2. I left the plugs out and tried again, but this time nothing. Now I don't know if that's just because the amount of vapor is pretty small and isn't accumulating like it did with the plugs in or NOT.

When I had tried starting yesterday and was trouble shooting I pulled the plugs and 3 & 4 were a little wet ( NOT soaking) but enough I might believe there had been fuel in the cylinder, but 1 & 2 were dry compared to them. This is why I started to wonder if something was wrong with my CAS or injector caps.

Any suggestions? I need to find out if there's a way to check the caps without the engine running for voltage. Can I do a continuity check from the cap to the ECU? I'm stumped at this point.

Its no surprise that cylinders 4 & 3 have more fuel than 2 & 1 because of the way the fuel enters the rail from left to right. To successfully check that the injectors are pulsing you should get a noid light, they can be checked out from Auto Zone you'll just need to find someone there who knows what the hell they are first. I promise they've got them though, its on their tool check out list. You can also save yourself the trip to AZ and just pull the fuel rail out of the head (leaving the injectors installed) and sit a 5 gallon bucket on your valve cover with the injectors pointing into it. Then spin the CAS and watch the injectors to see if fuels squirting out of them.

Hows spark on the cylinders?

You can check continuity across the harness from the ECU to the injectors, I'd do this after performing the above if one of the injectors isn't firing.

HUH! I must have read wrong! Is order looking from front Left side 1-2-3-4 or the other way round? Because my right side 2 cylinders are the ones I assumed were 3-4. fuel comes from left side and that doesn't match your quote about why they were wet..

Just checking. But I'll go do what you said about pulling the rail and if that doesn't work go find the NOID light.