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No spark on cylinders 1 and 4

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91TurboZ

10+ Year Contributor
48
2
May 14, 2010
York, Pennsylvania
As the title states, I'm not getting spark on cylinders 1 & 4. I have a 99 GSX with a 6-bolt motor and 1g CAS. I'm using a JMF coil pack bracket due to the intake manifold. The rest of my mods are in my profile..

Anyway, the background. I drove the car into work Wednesday morning and it was running great until I drove over the speed bump at the plant's entrance. I went over it slowly and there were no clearance issues or scraping. As soon as I got over it, the car started running poorly. I got out and started pulling plug wires and found that cylinder 1 & 4 were not sparking.

I've done a good deal of searching and based on previous results I've tried the following:

Replaced coil pack for cylinder 1 and 4 with a new Auto Zone part. This had no effect. I also swapped plug wires around with no effect.

Replace power transistor with a used one.The car s fired up great and was running on all 4 cylinders. I got out to check a few things in the engine bay before patting myself on the back. About 1 minute later the car died and would not start back up. I plugged in the old transistor and the car was back to the original state.

Replaced power transistor with a second used one. The car started but was only firing on cylinder 2 and 3. I then plugged the power transistor from the previous day in and it fired up, but again only cylinders 2 and 3 were firing. (One other thing to note is that all transistors provide an appropriate tach signal to my gauge cluster.)

Because of the results of the 1st used transistor, I figured that maybe a wire in the harness was grounding out and breaking the power transistors, so I checked the continuity of the following wires: wires going from the 1g CAS (cam angle signal wire and crank signal wire) back to the corresponding pins in the ECU plug; the ignition signal wires from the ECU to the transistor plug, the wires from the power transistor plug to the coil packs. All of these had continuity. I turned the ignition to the 'on' position and checked the voltage at the power transistor plug and the CAS plug. Both were about 12 volts. Ground wires also checked out.

I checked the resistance of the coil packs (both main and secondary resistances). The main resistance was checked using the coil pack harness and was coming out as 1 ohm on both coil packs. The Haynes manual calls for a max of .7 ohms, but since the coil pack for cylinders 2 and 3 were working, I chalked the readings up to the inaccuracy of my harbor freight mulitmeter. The secondary resistances were within spec.

I changed the CAS with a used one. This had no effect.

Finally I changed the ECU with a known working ECU. This had no effect.

I'm pretty much out of ideas right now. It feels like I've change/checked every part of the ignition system. Is there something I might be missing or any other tests I can perform? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
hard to discover the problem, I don't have a new idea... you have tried all recommended
 
I know you said you check the grounds but thats what it sounds like.

I only checked the 2 gound wires (one from the power transistor harness to a bolt on the strut tower and one from the CAS harness to the same bolt). I will re-check them tomorrow and post my findings. Are there any other grounds I should be checking?

Edit: Does the power transistor housing need be grounded? When swapping the units I only plugged them into the harness. I did not mount them like the original transistor thinking it would be okay to test like this.
 
You should have more than 2 grounds from the engine to the frame. Also if the grounds are to small of a guage they wont be able to handle the load.

It should be bolted back down.
 
There is a ground strap attached to the intake manifold, but I did not check the continuity between the engine and the frame. I will do so tomorrow. The grounds that I checked were the ground wires in the harnesses themselves. Thanks.
 
Welcome man! If its that crappy old strap I would buy a new cable style ground. They are like 6 bucks and carry alot more load, so they will be alot more reliable and come with ends on them in various sizes.
 
I had the same problem in my 2G, it also has a 6 bolt btw. It ended up being the Transistor, replace it and you should be good to go.
 
Just a quick update.

I checked the grounds on from the engine to the frame today. There were 3, one on the intake manifold, on on the starter bolt on the trans, and one on the downpipe. They all looked good, but I added another to my JMF coil pack bracket anyway. I checked the resistance between the body and several bolts on the engine. All were around 1 - 2 ohms. I tried to start it and it was still missing on 1 and 4.

I also checked the ECU output voltage to the power transistor while I was there. I measured between the input pins on the transistor plug and the negative battery terminal. This was one with the ignition in the "on" position.

Voltage at input 1: 0.281V
Voltage at input 2: 0.025V

The difference was pretty significant, so I plugged my known good ECU in and got the following:

Voltage at input 1: 0.025V
Voltage at input 2: 0.025V

So I'm thinking that my ECU is bad and is frying the power transistors. Does this sound logical or am I grasping here?
 
I am also having this issue at the moment. I have spare cas, coils, transistors, e prom ecu, plugs, plug wires, and finally had decided to try random things I had been putting off like fully removing this aftermarket alarm and checking to see if it had interfered in any way. (It didn't)

I am not really a great electrician however, I must dive into this and check for continuity. You are a step ahead of me there but seem to still have had no results.

I wish you the best of luck, please keep me posted. If I resolve my issue first I will let you know what caused mine....
 
Got it fixed last night. I ended up swapping out the ECU again with my spare and installed another (new to me) used power transistor. I guess my old ECU was immediately frying whatever power transistor I put in, which is why just swapping the ECU wasn't fixing the issue.

Anyway, thanks for all of the help/advice. Hopefully this thread will help someone else.
 
Good stuff man, and yea this is a good thread for someone that night have a sinilar problem but you should've explained how exactly you did some testing from your meter
 
Good stuff man, and yea this is a good thread for someone that night have a sinilar problem but you should've explained how exactly you did some testing from your meter

Yeah good point. I didn't intend for this to be any kind of guide (I am not an expert on this and would hate to provide misinformation), but maybe I can clean up my original post to include some details.

Well I have a talon with good ecu and transistor. I'm going to try them at the same time and see where that gets me. I would love to resolve this issue already...

You could try what I did and test the voltage that the ECU is sending to the power transistor before you go through the trouble of swapping out the ECU. Basically I hooked up the positive lead on my multimeter to pin 2 on the power transistor harness connector (which is the ECU input for one of the coils), turned the ignition to the "on" position and checked the voltage using the negative battery terminal as my ground. I then repeated this using pin 7, which is the ECU input for the other coil. 0.025V seemed to be the magic number for me assuming my multimeter was accurate.
 
I actually got the pin numbers from the Haynes manual, but the last picture in the following link should help.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151528353-post8.html

Pin 1 is the left pin and pin 8 is the right. Pin 5 is empty.

With the reference I can go from there. I have a chilton manual which has the wiring diagrams as well I've had no luck deciphering them....I really don't belong tinkering with electronics..

I really am not a fan of this book either. Aside from torque specs It has been useless.

They should just call it "Disconnect your battery and lift your car onto jack stands."

Every repair instruction is at least 10 steps because of this.... It's like "to add washer fluid" 1. remove negative battery terminal 2. remove battery hold downs 3. remove battery 4. use jack to lift vehicle 5. once vehicle is off tires 6. insert jack stands. 7. remove cap from washer fluid reservoir 8. remove cap from washer fluid bottle 9. use funnel to pour from one bottle to the other. 10. fill 11. close reservoir 12. undo the 10 things that had nothing to do with filling your washer fluid.

OR my other favorite Chilton-ism is:

Make sure x is aligned to the proper position......

NO FLIPPING PICTURE OR DESCRIPTION OF THE POSITION?!?!

Needing the exact position details or photo is why I bought the book... Which is why this site and the vfaq site are the most informative places to gather information for DSM period.
 
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