A battery light on is a good indicator of a charging system issue. Your alternators output may be below its threshold. And the brake light being on could be cause by low brake fluid, meaning its time to check your brakes or check for a leak in the brake system, or like on my Talon, the sensor for the parking brake is bad so my light is on most the time.

Yes, I would agree with Talon IV, but to add to that.... I would check your voltage across the battery with the engine running. You should see between 13.5-14.8 volts on a good charging system. Anything lower than that would usually indicate a bad alternator.

Check your brake master fluid to make sure it's full. If it's low, that could indicate a need for a brake job, or possibly a leak like what was already mentioned.

Get the alt tested, check the belt, check the cables, check the alt fuse. That should keep you busy for a hot minute.

^ what he said. Go to auto zone or any close parts shops and they can test all of your ignition system for you. Well, for the most part.

97gst_spyder said:

Get the alt tested, check the belt, check the cables, check the alt fuse. That should keep you busy for a hot minute.

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spooling hard said:

^ what he said. Go to auto zone or any close parts shops and they can test all of your ignition system for you. Well, for the most part.

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Whatever you do, don't take it off the car to have it tested. Those OFF car tests can pass the alternator, but when you get it on the car it won't put out crap. Do yourself a favor and use a volt meter across the battery terminals with the engine running. If it's putting out 12.xx volts it's most likely junk. If you've got 13.5-14.8 volts you're okay.

and aother quick test is to check voltage from the alternator to the battery.

Also, get the car hot before the test. I've had tons pass when the car wasn't fully hot that were really bad.

Talon IV said:

and aother quick test is to check voltage from the alternator to the battery.

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Yes, I usually just recommend checking at the battery first, because that is what you're checking when you measure voltage there. If the results at the battery are not up to par then it's time to go straight to the alternator to check it's voltage output.

97gst_spyder said:

Also, get the car hot before the test. I've had tons pass when the car wasn't fully hot that were really bad.

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Yes, it's always good to test when it's hot. I believe that is part of the reason they will pass the off car test, but not on the car.

I had this problem the other day to actually. Brake and Battery Light were both on.

I don't know if mine was a fluke but all I did was unplugged my power inverter from the cig lighter, then I pulled on the brake handle to activate the brake light switch, then released the brake. Lights went out.

When your lights are on do they continuously flicker? Mine did and it was the alternator.

GRAVEDIGGER said:

Whatever you do, don't take it off the car to have it tested. Those OFF car tests can pass the alternator, but when you get it on the car it won't put out crap. Do yourself a favor and use a volt meter across the battery terminals with the engine running. If it's putting out 12.xx volts it's most likely junk. If you've got 13.5-14.8 volts you're okay.

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I am 100% agree.

It had happen to me.

Hey guys so I figured out the issue. Now this might sound strange, but it was my headlamp fuse under the hood its a 40a fuse I had replaced it started the car up and the lights weren't on. Thanks everyone for the help I hate seeing that battery light on when I have my child in the car

95eclipse16g said:

Hey guys so I figured out the issue. Now this might sound strange, but it was my headlamp fuse under the hood its a 40a fuse I had replaced it started the car up and the lights weren't on. Thanks everyone for the help I hate seeing that battery light on when I have my child in the car

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Well I'll be damned.