Have you done a boost leak test, checked the spark plugs is the fuel old .

Check your maf, with out that plugged in all the way it wil idle but like crap and it will not rev at all, so make sure thats pluged in all the way, just go around checking all your plugs. Check your wires, plugs and coilpack.And one last thing to leak down test make sure you dont have any vaccume or boost leaks good luck to ya sir!

dsm92talonboost said:

Check your maf, with out that plugged in all the way it wil idle but like crap and it will not rev at all, so make sure thats pluged in all the way, just go around checking all your plugs. Check your wires, plugs and coilpack.And one last thing to leak down test make sure you dont have any vaccume or boost leaks good luck to ya sir!

Click to expand...

Plugs are good (constantly being changed ), wires are good, leak down test is good, and im not on a maft anymore, im running speed density now. Trust me all the small stuff has been gone through haha and I don't think its the coilpack, ide expect more random misfires, not just when I give it gas. Although not to say the coil pack couldn't be the problem.

Checked the TPS and fuel delivery?

Also if you're running speed density, have you been sure to go over the initial setup and be sure to enable/disable exactly what needs to be? Go back over everything one step at a time. Retrace what you've done.

The TPS has been ruled out, and its getting fuel to much of it! And speed density was set up by a few different performance shops. Il try to get a log up. But you guys are helping to narrow it down Im really thinking its gotta be a bad o2 sensor

We'll see as soon as we see that log man.

Okay update, changed out the o2 sensor and it didn't fix it. The map sensor was swapped out from the gm to the aem with a little better results, but im having to take ridiculous amounts of fuel out of it just to get it to run somewhat decently, for some reason its seeing excessive load, which is why im assuming its dumping so much fuel, but I have no idea what would cause this.

Im going to get a log up as soon as I can.

Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)


Start here.

Maybe your tune is set to the wrong size injectors.

iugrad92turbo said:

Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)


Start here.

Click to expand...

I don't have idle surge though...
and the injectors are set to restrict the fuel as much as possible. Like I said previously, im having to pull out ridiculous amounts of fuel to get it to run decently.

Ok, but that will help with idle as well besides surge, many say its not when that, s postedbut that thread will help with the basics of a bad idle.

Do you have a log we can look at?

Correction many on here say its not surge but that will help with the many steps due to a poor idle, surging or not, confusing and a pita yes it is, ive been there with a bad idle, but i worked my way through it and no more idle issues, you gotta start somewhere. This is where ecmlink help me out a lot.

What i would do is pull the plugs out and take a look at the plugs they will tell you a lot, there are only a few things the motor needs air fuel compression and spark so if they are wet then you may have an ignition problem, i would check to make sure your timing is on first off, then check your ignition timing with a timing light, also check fuel pressure rarely does a fuel pressure regulator go bad but if your injectors are tuned to pulse a certain ammount and the fuel pressure is way too high that could cause your rich condition, another thing that could cause it is bent or sticking valves ive seen it where people have put adjustable cam gears on and they slip they recenter them and try to run it but it will sputter and idle poorly

Im gunna check the timing and fpr, thanks man.

Heres basicly whats been ruled out:
New TPS sensor
New front o2 sensor
Ive tried 2 ecus, one on ecuflash and the other on dsmlink
Coolant Temp sensor logs correctly
Changed the GM 3 bar map sensor out with the AEM
Checked the injectors, none are stuck, all functioning properly
Swapped out the fuel rail from the FIC rail back to stock
Has been BLT (but its never bad to do it again)

Is there anything in the harness, the one that runs to the fuse box under the hood, that directly effects air calculation? Ive already changed the engine harness twice, so thats not the issue.

Not that im aware of make sure you do a blt often to rule those out. If sensor is bad chances youll get a code on the ecu. How is it tuned? what are you using to tune it with, can you check codes, is the ecu
in good shape check it out.

I am not sure about the 2g eclipses, but the 1g eclipse has a fuel injector resistor pack installed on the firewall which changes the resistance of the signal to the injectors maybe yours could be bad? The thing that gets me is your ignition timing may be incorrect due to the fact that when you said you rev it pops and sputters Or it could be valve timing like ive mentioned before. anytime you get some sort of backfire or pop your mixture is igniting at the wrong time theres so many things it could be like the coil pack being weak, What king of plugs are you running (I would recommend NGKR BPR7ES for moderate performance) If your running a BOSCH plug that could be your whole issue make sure you stick with NGKS (BPR6ES BPR7ES BPR8ES) Those three i recommend 8's the coldest stay away from that unless your expecting high horsepower because they foul easily, honestly what i would do is clean the plugs off and run it for a minute then pull the plugs and see if they are soaked with fuel like your saying plugs tell a lot but dont overlook the basics the easy solution usually is overlooked, PS most of your sensors will not read such as 02 until your motor begins to warm up and go into closed loop mode