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300 whp build about to start, looking for input.

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kennyg

15+ Year Contributor
46
0
Mar 14, 2007
Winnipeg, MB_Canada
Hey guys, names Ken, gonna start working on my '94 Laser RS Turbo AWD this spring and looking for a bit of input from you guys that have been around the block.

Looking for around 300 whp + or - and I think I wanna run an ACT 2100, so I'm looking for a setup that that clutch can handle, don't want anything with too stiff of a pedal feel, this isn't gonna be a drag car just a street car.

Any clutches you guys would suggest with similar feel but maybe could hold a bit more power? :D

Anyways I was thinking about the trusty EVO III 16G and it seems pretty well suited to what I want but theres quite a few used HX 35's around for pretty cheap, but would my horsepower goals be kinda low for what that turbos meant for?

For fuel I'm thinking Walbro 255, AFPR, some FIC 850's and ECMLink V3 Lite, I think that is sufficient and will allow a little growth in the future if I decide too.

Well thats enough for now I have other questions but we'll get to those later, thanks guys!
 
Go with the 16g, the holset will be way to big for your goals, all you'd do is suffer from an inefficient turbo and more lag then necessary.

Add an afpr to your list of fuel items as well.
 
With the parts listed you will in no doubt acheive your goal. My personal favorite clutch for a DD was my act 2600 with a street disc, very well manored on the streets and more than adequate holding capacity for future goals.
 
Hey guys, names Ken, gonna start working on my '94 Laser RS Turbo AWD this spring and looking for a bit of input from you guys that have been around the block.

Looking for around 300 whp + or - and I think I wanna run an ACT 2100, so I'm looking for a setup that that clutch can handle, don't want anything with too stiff of a pedal feel, this isn't gonna be a drag car just a street car.

Any clutches you guys would suggest with similar feel but maybe could hold a bit more power? :D

Anyways I was thinking about the trusty EVO III 16G and it seems pretty well suited to what I want but theres quite a few used HX 35's around for pretty cheap, but would my horsepower goals be kinda low for what that turbos meant for?

For fuel I'm thinking Walbro 255, AFPR, some FIC 850's and ECMLink V3 Lite, I think that is sufficient and will allow a little growth in the future if I decide too.

Well thats enough for now I have other questions but we'll get to those later, thanks guys!


Welcome to the game.

The "upgrade path" listed on here is ONE way to go, but not the only. Ultimately you will have to do your research. On the turbo, I would recommend the Evo III 16G or the 20G. I have owned bothe the Evo III and a BR 20G and both are GREAT turbos.

My suggestion to you is to get a wideband and a boost gauge and start doing some tuning with your car mostly stock. Obviously 255 rewired and a full exhaust help lots, as does sidemount hardpiping or a front mounth. VRSF and Punishment racing have great deals on FMIC kits and you can pick up a used exhaust system for pretty cheap.

Tuning is what will be important. You can jump on the bandwagon and get S-AFC and GM MAf/MAF-Translator, or do something like HKS VPC/GCC. I was tuning my car with jackal last year and LOVED it. I will be tuning my new car with it this year. I have heard of guys having success with tunerpro as well. Do your research, talk to people that have run all these diferent systems and then take that knowledge and make a decision. I personally loved the way my car operated on Speed Density so I doubt I will ever look back but that's just my personal preference.

There is also some good info on dsmecu.com.

Good luck with the build!
 
If you don't care about money, ignore my post.

Ok, for 300 HP you don't NEED a 255, a 190 or VR4 pump ($30-40) will suit you just fine, and you can skip the AFPR. Small or Evo 3 16G is what you want, the small can be had for $100 or so, the Evo for around $300 (both used, of course). Or, you can just use the 14B with a good intercooler. If you go with a 16G you won't need a FMIC, the stocker is fine. The 2100 clutch is fine, you don't need the 2600 plate.. You can also get away with smaller injectors, 750s are plenty, but since you're getting link it doesn't really matter. This is all assuming you're going to be running gasoline and not E85 or better. This also assumes you want to save as much money as possible.
 
The e316g is a great choice for your goal. You could do it on the 14B but I would use the 16G and be done. The 300whp mark is not hard to make at all with this turbo.
For mods , keep it simple. You can make that much hp off most all the stock stuff and then some. Do your research.

This is what I would do. No more.


Evo 3 16g
650's
ECMLINK
Walboro 190 (rewired)
boost controller.
Basic gauges


Keep it simple. You don't need a lot of the stuff to achieve those numbers. A lot can be achieved with a good tune! As for the clutch combo, the ACT 2600/street disc combo has been very popular over the years. I would skip the 2100 and go strait to the 2600. Costs a little more but has a higher torque rating, which will be helpfull if you ever decide to drop the HX-35 on in the future.
Good luck and keep it simple.
Stock parts FTW!
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I think I'll stick with a 16G of some form, sounds like the best dollar/performance for what I want.

I had my eye on the Punishment FMIC kit, looks like a good value.

I'm gonna start looking into the 2600 a bit more since most of you are suggesting that, aside from that bottom end is gonna get some new pistons/rods. It has some lifter "tick", probably gonna sort that out, was considering cams but not sure if that would be worth it though?
 
You don't need them, but if you're doing it, and you're not going to want more power later, go 264/272 or stay stock.
 
Ok if i get flamed its cool, but what can i expect on avg 1/4 times, WHP, drivability as well as durability on a stock 7bolt, FP Evo3/16g turbo (ported), fp race manifold, 650cc inj. rewired 190lph FP, SAFC2, O2 dump housing and Catless exhaust, and 20psi boost, PR/CXR FMIC KIT, NRG Type S BOV, ebay hard intake pipe with K&N Filter, ACT2600LB CLUTCH FIDANZA FLYWHEEL. Does this all sound good and get me for sure past the 300whp mark that the OP as well as me am looking for? It is a budget build so no i dont want to go DSMlink or whatever i want to stick with the SAFC2 for tunning and stick with i guess FIC650cc or denso660cc inj. Yes i know its a newbee post but i know its been done a lot before, i just keep pulling info on dsmlinks or old forums with no good info to me, oh ya btw im a FWD GST SPYDER
 
Ok if i get flamed its cool, but what can i expect on avg 1/4 times, WHP, drivability as well as durability on a stock 7bolt, FP Evo3/16g turbo (ported), fp race manifold, 650cc inj. rewired 190lph FP, SAFC2, O2 dump housing and Catless exhaust, and 20psi boost, PR/CXR FMIC KIT, NRG Type S BOV, ebay hard intake pipe with K&N Filter, ACT2600LB CLUTCH FIDANZA FLYWHEEL. Does this all sound good and get me for sure past the 300whp mark that the OP as well as me am looking for? It is a budget build so no i dont want to go DSMlink or whatever i want to stick with the SAFC2 for tunning and stick with i guess FIC650cc or denso660cc inj. Yes i know its a newbee post but i know its been done a lot before, i just keep pulling info on dsmlinks or old forums with no good info to me, oh ya btw im a FWD GST SPYDER

you should be able to hit 300 with that easy, keep the stock manifold and use the $ to invest in link, i did it and its so much easier to tune then safc or vpc/gcc. you should also throw in a wideband for good measure.
 
Well i already have the FP Mani thats the only reason i was gonna throw it in use. Ya ill have all proper gauges for sure, well atleast Oil Pressure, Wideband AFR gauge, Boost, Maybe EGT just incase. Well ill trade my mani for a dsmlink LOL, its still brand new just took it out to take pics and put back up.
 
honestly , the first thing i bought for my dsm was link, best decision ive ever made.
 
Ok, for 300 HP you don't NEED a 255, a 190 or VR4 pump ($30-40) will suit you just fine, and you can skip the AFPR. Small or Evo 3 16G is what you want, the small can be had for $100 or so, the Evo for around $300 (both used, of course). Or, you can just use the 14B with a good intercooler. If you go with a 16G you won't need a FMIC, the stocker is fine. The 2100 clutch is fine, you don't need the 2600 plate.. You can also get away with smaller injectors, 750s are plenty, but since you're getting link it doesn't really matter. This is all assuming you're going to be running gasoline and not E85 or better. This also assumes you want to save as much money as possible.

Sorry to bring up a old thread, but I'm using the search function!

Do you mean 3kgt vr4 or the galant vr4? I assume 3kgt, but I thought they also suffered from underpowered and underwired pumps. (Though for 300hp stock)
 
Just use a walbro 255. Itll be good to around 500 whp on e85
 
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