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Questions for Justin...

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Is something like that really proven? Here's a response from Robert Young on a similar topic:

Kamak and all the rest of them are all the same group in China, user beware. The "big 16g" compressor used to fly apart with great regularity, they responded by clipping the inducer edges of the blades, but its a material issue really. They arent doing any aero design work at all, just making parts that look like compressor wheels and sorta move air until they break, then you use a new one.

Now if you were talking about something like the Batmowheel tech that Bullseye has recently introduced which increases the surface area of the blade as well as the aerodynamics of the wheel itself, then you'd be on to something. This design borrows airflow tech from GE turbine engines.

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GE discusses their wheel design at around the :48 mark of this video:

YouTube - ‪GE 90-115B Engine‬‏
 
What i was thinkin it would be more aerodynamic and be able to pull or push air out the exhaust easier. anyway here are the pics and is it possible for the 18g compressor wheel to be in this turbo?hopefully the pics help those are the only markings on the hot side.
 

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Oil feed on an hx40. Straight threads or is it NPT?
 
Out of the box it should be 12mm x 1.5, which is a straight thread. I've tapped these to 1/4" NPT in the past which does seal better, but you absolutely must do this ONLY when the turbo is completely disassembled because you literally fill the oil supply hole with metal.
 
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Rebuilt MHI 16g with tradergreg rebuild kit, no in and out play but some up and down shaft play. Is this normal? If not what should I check for specs and do you have them? IE. Turbine/compressor shaft size (first thing that comes to mind for excessive wear and tear). 0 Miles on the rebuild.
 
The shaft size should not vary from the center to where the bearings sit. If there is any wear on the shaft where the bearings are located, even as much as .001", this will translate into more play at the end of the shaft and may cause the wheels to rub the housing.

Also, be sure your center housing has not been machined to the next larger bearing size. If the turbo has been rebuilt before, some rebuilders will automatically hone the journals to the next larger size to be sure they're straight, much like boring an engine block assures straight cylinder bores. The result is you'd then need oversized journal bearings to fit the machined journals instead of the standard bearings.
 
The shaft size should not vary from the center to where the bearings sit. If there is any wear on the shaft where the bearings are located, even as much as .001", this will translate into more play at the end of the shaft and may cause the wheels to rub the housing.

Also, be sure your center housing has not been machined to the next larger bearing size. If the turbo has been rebuilt before, some rebuilders will automatically hone the journals to the next larger size to be sure they're straight, much like boring an engine block assures straight cylinder bores. The result is you'd then need oversized journal bearings to fit the machined journals instead of the standard bearings.

Makes sense. Do you know the stock bore size for a MHI 16g? I can mic it to check, that's not an issue. As far as I know it shouldn't have been rebuilt previously though.

How much play is tolerable? It isn't hitting the housings anywhere, just more play than I expected for a freshly rebuild turbo, but then again I have felt a brand new turbonetics turbo with almost as much play.

Thanks!
 
Mr. Justin sir,

I'm thinking on running a dry evo3 16g set up for my weekend/track car. I already have a external oil cooler on a 90 OHF and a new mishimoto radiator. I want to keep oil temps and coolants temp low and keep them separate if possible and not deal with the hassle of water lines with the turbo. How well does a MHI center housing hold up to a dry set up with proper cool down?

Thanks
 
It will be as good as any other oil-fed turbo as long as it's allowed proper cooldown time. Water lines on journal bearing turbos are only in place as a heat sink which allows the cartridge to continue to cool after the engine is shut down. This is why it's important if you do choose to run coolant that the lines move from a lower (cool) source to an upper (hot) source so the water will continue to move through the cartridge after the engine is turned off.

On a ball bearing turbo the coolant lines are basically mandatory because such little oil actually enters the cartridge, but on a journal bearing turbo they're an accessory whether the provision is on the cartridge or not.
 
It will be as good as any other oil-fed turbo as long as it's allowed proper cooldown time. Water lines on journal bearing turbos are only in place as a heat sink which allows the cartridge to continue to cool after the engine is shut down. This is why it's important if you do choose to run coolant that the lines move from a lower (cool) source to an upper (hot) source so the water will continue to move through the cartridge after the engine is turned off.

On a ball bearing turbo the coolant lines are basically mandatory because such little oil actually enters the cartridge, but on a journal bearing turbo they're an accessory whether the provision is on the cartridge or not.

Dry set up it is!

Thanks for info! :thumb:
 
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