Timothyj94 said:

I think im already starting to have transmission problems

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Not trying sound like I'm pushing you away from boosting I'm all for boosted the 420a but try to work out most of your kinks before you start the process because more will arise like fuel leaks boost leaks oil leaks well it will just be less of a headache and goes smoother if you get the majority of the issues fixed now

Timothyj94 said:

I think im already starting to have transmission problems

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i have a full parts eclipse. has a 420a. but its 5-speed. if you were interested in a conversion. i have everything you need. the tranny has a bad syncro for the 3rd gear. but i have a full parts transmission with a bad diff. the clutch is new, slave and master are in perfect condition. if your interested keep me posted. i can have everything set up and ready for you.

sk8rdude said:

i have a full parts eclipse. has a 420a. but its 5-speed. if you were interested in a conversion. i have everything you need. the tranny has a bad syncro for the 3rd gear. but i have a full parts transmission with a bad diff. the clutch is new, slave and master are in perfect condition. if your interested keep me posted. i can have everything set up and ready for you.

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I do wanna convert to 5 speed, you live in new York though =[

Timothyj94 said:

I do wanna convert to 5 speed, you live in new York though =[

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420a manual trans are a little hard to find locally, however, if you pick up a rock and throw it in a junk yard most of the time you will hit a late 90's neon and with some work you can fit it in, then you can have the lighter parts shipped from a part out. Here is the info.

2GNT.com - 3.55

Shake_Zulla said:

420a manual trans are a little hard to find locally, however, if you pick up a rock and throw it in a junk yard most of the time you will hit a late 90's neon and with some work you can fit it in, then you can have the lighter parts shipped from a part out. Here is the info.

2GNT.com - 3.55

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Very good info, but if I remember correctly to do this swap it requires swapping bellhousings on the transmission and since the neons use a cable style clutch setup rather than a hydraulic clutch that an eclipse uses. Read the link for all of the details.

Carter_95RS said:

Very good info, but if I remember correctly to do this swap it requires swapping bellhousings on the transmission and since the neons use a cable style clutch setup rather than a hydraulic clutch that an eclipse uses. Read the link for all of the details.

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Sad thing is I knew that. Well at least a bell housing would be lighter to ship. Now I need some damn coffee.

ya what ever you want to do keep me posted. everything in my gs is in good condition. if you choose to do the swap i hold what ever parts you need. at the same time once the car starts getting the body parts stripped off im only going to keep it for a limited amount of time. Dont want the front of my house looking like a junk yard

Shake_Zulla said:

420a manual trans are a little hard to find locally, however, if you pick up a rock and throw it in a junk yard most of the time you will hit a late 90's neon and with some work you can fit it in, then you can have the lighter parts shipped from a part out. Here is the info.

2GNT.com - 3.55

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There's 3 420a neons in the junkyard by my house I was just there idk if they are manual tho

Timothyj94 said:

There's 3 420a neons in the junkyard by my house I was just there idk if they are manual tho

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Like Carter said though you still need the eclipse bell housing.

longer gears are better for boost so the 3.55 will be of help instead of 3.95 what we have. To let you understand why because longer the gear the lower RPM boost will engage and the longer period of time you will be in boost

To add to the 5 speed swap if you go for the neon tranny if you find one out of I believe 2000-2003 neon it has the same bell housing and a hydraulic slave cylinder. Do a search on 2gnt.com or just google it you should find information if you are really thinking about doing the swap.

sorry to bring this back, but im looking for an easy downpipe to hook up with current/my aftermarket exaust (i have stock piping and after market dont care which i use) i would prefer not to weld or blow extra money at the muffler shop ### they charge out the ass. any ideas? i havent been able to find one on ebay.

also what do u think of these turbos

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You forgot to add a tuning tool, here's a basic one to start with.
2GNT.com Forums - Viewing message - FS: Apexi SAFC

Those turbos look tempting as hell, but I'm dead set on the Godspeed production line of turbos.

anything on the downpipe? thats all i really need to figure out, hoping to spend very little on it =/

OIL FILTER SANDWICH ADAPTER MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 420A | eBay

also is gettting something like this for the return/feed lines a good idea vs welding into the pan?

Timothyj94 said:

also is gettting something like this for the return/feed lines a good idea vs welding into the pan?

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Bad idea. They make your oil filter protrude past the pan, where it's vulnerable to punctures and abrasions. Also, I don't believe the return port is large enough.

There's such a thing called a "bulkhead fitting," which does not require any welding as long as you drill the hole on a flat surface of the oil pain. I had one, and it worked reasonably well, but it was installed on a somewhat curved surface so it leaked eventually.

Timothyj94 said:

anything on the downpipe? thats all i really need to figure out, hoping to spend very little on it =/

OIL FILTER SANDWICH ADAPTER MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 420A | eBay

also is gettting something like this for the return/feed lines a good idea vs welding into the pan?

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That is just to get oil pressure to the turbo. You can't drain the turbo into that. You will still have to have a fitting welded to the pan. It would probably be a better idea to pop one of the oil plugs in the head out, tap it and thread a fitting into that.

bryanwheat said:

That is just to get oil pressure to the turbo. You can't drain the turbo into that. You will still have to have a fitting welded to the pan. It would probably be a better idea to pop one of the oil plugs in the head out, tap it and thread a fitting into that.

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Or just use the already tapped hole in the back of block for the oil pressure sending unit.

You guys got me confused. Are you talking about using a hole the size of an oil pressure line for an oil return line? As well as trying to return against pressure?

OP, you know your oil return line should be AT LEAST -10an if not -12an. It also must be in a line below the turbo, without kinks and 90's so the oil will flow right out.

MB

bullettdsm said:

You guys got me confused. Are you talking about using a hole the size of an oil pressure line for an oil return line? As well as trying to return against pressure?

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OPSU hole on the back of the block for the feed, welded or bulkhead fitting on the pan for the return. That's what I was saying, at least...

i got lucky with my turbo build. a friend of mine had a spare t3/t4 turbo and turbine laying around so i got that for 50 bucks..ive seen where them turbos are sold for 100bucks new on internet...theres a thread somewhere on how to build ## own turob kit for under 1 grand if i find that link ill post it up on here

VelocitàPaola;152801035 said:

OPSU hole on the back of the block for the feed, welded or bulkhead fitting on the pan for the return. That's what I was saying, at least...

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This is what i was getting at also, i was just talking about feeding from the head , but the oil filter housing would work good also.

wheres the best/ easiest feed in ## guys oppinion?

Timothyj94 said:

anything on the downpipe? thats all i really need to figure out, hoping to spend very little on it =/

OIL FILTER SANDWICH ADAPTER MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 420A | eBay

also is gettting something like this for the return/feed lines a good idea vs welding into the pan?

Click to expand...

You can get a better sandwitch adapter for around $50.I forgot the brand I bought but I have been using it for 2 years without any problems.It comes with 6 center adapters for different types of filters.I use a shorter fram filter for clearance.It isnt even close to the bottom of my oil pan.Make sure you by the best oil feed line you can.Its best to have a high temp braided line made custom at a hydralic shop.I think mine was like $80.The line that I bought on ebay heated up and cracked after 3 months.

also get a decent return line.And it is best to do the oil pan tap.If you cant do a good weld yourself, you can put a mark on the pan where you need to weld the bung.get a good steel bung and take the pan and fitting to a shop where they can weld it for you.Should cost no more than $20 for them to weld it for you

Ok, I'm getting my final last information, right now im working on the lines.

What is the best size FEED line, and RETURN line? And best place to find these, since they are very critical obviously dont want breaks and leaks . (with a budget in mind)


I believe i have figured out for the OIL FEED, the set up is:

3/8 into OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT on rear block > 3/8 TEE fitting on that > OPSU on that > 1/8 Reducer into opening on TEE > 1/8 to 1/4 flare fitting > 4 an oil line > 1/8 to 1/4 flare > 1/8 on turbo.

Does this sound good?

Now what i'm confused on: the fittings for the RETURN both ends.

I plan on for all the trouble, making a 100% noob guide to going turbo, pics, vids, and all the goodies I happen to make, when i'm done with this.


Also, cheapest place to find IC piping / couplers, besides ebay, maybe locally?