Well I have $2000 that I can spend on my 1990 TSI and I was thinking about the HX40 rought since its a effective yet affordable turbo. Here is what I am going to spend my $2000 on...

HX40
Bep housing
Deatschwerks 300lph fuel pump

Multi-Layer Steel Head Gasket
ARP headstuds
1600cc injectors

Now I plan on going e85 for this set up so thats why I have chosen the 1600cc injectors. I already have a 3inch full exhaust and speed density tuning with a wideband so I should be ok there. My goal with this set up is 450-500awhp, is this duable with just a multilayer head gasket, headstuds and some tuning?

i think your going to need more than you think. your exhaust isnt going to bolt up, to tune that your looking at dsm link or aem, even with a used turbo your gunna stretch your budget tight when you start looking at all the smaller stuff your going to need.


and just throwing a head gasket and studs in the block is the worst idea as you need to deck the block head correctly to run mls as the stock gasket allows for some imperfection that the mls does not.

for the fuel pump i would say go with a dual 255 set up since you have one in the car already.

the biggest issue i would think though is your still running a stock block and going to try to make power out of a high flowing larger turbo.

why not stick to a 16g and your current build list to hit the power goal

I think you should build up all the supporting mods first. Build it up to the power you're wanting to make then get the turbo to make that power.

Nope, not for long at least.

Is it doable? Yep. Absolutely, as long as all supporting mods are done, your engine can certainly take that power if it's healthy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5qD61vPWgM

Something like 625 WHP on a stock block.

OP is your car going to be a DD? Mike did make a 9 second pass but even he's realized that the bottom end isn't going to take much more abuse. I guess I side on the side of safety especially if it's your DD. Only way I would do it is if I had the money to build it if she decides to blow up on you.

By the time you spend all the money on supporting mods/safety equipment for a 9 second car, some forged internals are a drop in the bucket.

Ditch the Wally and go with the DW300, I have one and absolutly love it!

It took me a while to piece everything together to run my setup but take your time with it. You'll need full fuel mods, tuning, large enough injectors to meet the demands. Internals to handle 25+psi/xxxHP. Your head and block will need to have the proper RA# to utilize a MLS gasket properly and the Cometic gasket is CRAP IMO. OEM composite has seen 30psi fine and 40+psi on an o-ringed block.

I will second that cometic is crap. Go with the mits MLS or a felpro MLS.

Bunch of wimps in here. You do NOT need a built block to support an hx40. Keep the boost under 30 and it will last a while.

I had under 1k into my old 2g. Hx40 was around $225, BEP housing was $250. 1000cc injectors and got dsmlink used for a steal. Only ran one walbro as well. I was getting close to 90% duty cycle though.. could of used some more fuel.

Kept it @ 25psi and it lasted about a year and half while I owned it. Drove it mostly every day. All of this was on a bone stock block 2g with over 150k miles. Definitely don't need 2k to do it if you source used parts and keep an eye out for good deals. And definitely don't put a dumb 16g on there (unless you buy a cheapo ebay one).. the price of those things is so ridiculous.

Afvckinmen

phunny said:

Nope, not for long at least.

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He has a 6bolt . . . They last "for long" at 600whp. . . But you know what that's like. Just as you posted here direct pictures from Maximum Boost about your theory on intercoolers but don't know who Corky Bell is . . .

cloead said:

Bunch of wimps in here. You do NOT need a built block to support an hx40.

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No, but it helps. I'm all about stock block cars, i've run tons of stock(ish) 6-bolts. But, there is always that 1 in 50 chance that they don't handle it.


The bearings, and pistons looked perfect, this wasn't caused by pre-ignition.

Awesome, another DSMer trying to cheap out. Racing is'nt cheap. Save up and do it right.

Your setup seems doable, I would also recommend and after-market fuel filter, such as the one from fuellab with a stainless filter element. The e85 will eventually dissolve the stock paper filter element.

I think it can be done.if you hit the classifieds, you might find some of the stuff you need. A hx35 would be cheaper and get you in that range.

burkgonzo said:

Awesome, another DSMer trying to cheap out. Racing is'nt cheap. Save up and do it right.

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Come on now. Let's go back and read his first post. It's not "cheaping out" to build to his 500whp goal with a stock 6bolt.

donniekak said:

No, but it helps. I'm all about stock block cars, i've run tons of stock(ish) 6-bolts. But, there is always that 1 in 50 chance that they don't handle it.


The bearings, and pistons looked perfect, this wasn't caused by pre-ignition.

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Nice!!! But yes of course it helps, but its not like the car won't run and won't be fun.. etc etc. If you are smart about it and don't go crazy chances are it will last for a while.

burkgonzo said:

Awesome, another DSMer trying to cheap out. Racing is'nt cheap. Save up and do it right.

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In case you didn't notice that's the draw to these cars.. cheap horsepower. Had my last awd 2g in the 400whp range for $2500 including the price of the car..

Trying to get my colt into the same range on the same budget It's more fun that way! Sure it'll get a built block if I keep the car long enough.. but I'm not trying to break the bank here. I was just reading a thread of a guy dynoing @ 624awhp with a stock 6 bolt block.. and he has numerous passes on the car.

Saying you NEED a built block for ~400whp is just laughable.

Why not go with a smaller turbo that conforms more to your power goals? I'm running an HX40 pro on a built 2.4 liter motor and it's still a little bit laggy for my taste. Of course, this setup is also capable of around 700whp so I can't complain much. A lot of the lag probably comes from my huge 18cm^2 turbine housing and t4 manifold and i'm sure the standard hx40 (without the larger 60mm wheel) would spool up faster especially with a smaller mani and housing. If you wind up going with the hx40 on your stock 2.0 motor I would definitely go with either a stock 2g exhaust mani and a .55 BEP housing or an open T3 mani with a .70 housing. If money were no object, a divided (twin-scroll) T3 manifold and 12cm^2 holset housing would probably be ideal, but it sounds like you're not working with unlimited funds here. If I were you, and my goal was only 500whp on the stock block, I would opt for the HX35 instead. It spools like a 16g and has been proven to make 500+ at the wheels. Why deal with the extra lag when you can meet your goal with a smaller turbo that should be more fun to drive on the street and also competitive on an autocross course yet can still click off a 10 second quarter mile at the drag strip?

I'm kinda surprised that the engine is the only thing being considered here. At 450-500awhp, it's worth looking at the rest of the drive-train as well. Is your clutch capable of handling that kind of power? How about your transmission, has it been rebuilt recently or does it have a lot of mileage on it? Are you planning on ever launching, especially with slicks? Might be worth looking at axles.

Also what about the top end on the motor, are you just going to run stock everything? If you want to really take advantage of a turbo that size you're going to need different cams, which (generally) means new springs and retainers.

Sure it's "doable", but is it the right way to do it?

Just my $0.02

Axles are not a concern IMO at this power level unless you are stupid upon launch. You can break axles easy at 200whp with a bad driver.

There are people who used a stock head with mild 272's at that power level with no problems. Stock springs, retainers, lifters, ect.. Shoot If I recall, Talondave ran a stock head with his old HX40 setup.

Do-able..Sorry that was bothering me..

little-razcal said:

There are people who used a stock head with mild 272's at that power level with no problems. Stock springs, retainers, lifters, ect.. Shoot If I recall, Talondave ran a stock head with his old HX40 setup.

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I'm not arguing that, but my point was that by going that route you're not getting anywhere near the performance you could be, and running a set of 272's on stock springs is just asking for trouble in the higher RPMs.

Just saw that the OP has an upgraded clutch, so that end of things is covered.

Honestly, if you're not planning on doing any engine work, I would look at upgrading to a 20g plus supporting mods. It's capable of 400-450hp which isn't too far off from your goals, and it'll spool faster than an HX40.

dsm-onster said:

Afvckinmen

He has a 6bolt . . . They last "for long" at 600whp. . . But you know what that's like. Just as you posted here direct pictures from Maximum Boost about your theory on intercoolers but don't know who Corky Bell is . . .

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Define "long"... Guess you can't because you don't have a clue what you're talking about. You think everyone wants to "live on the edge" just waiting for these to break down?? Some of us actually don't mind spending a little more and doing things right. I'm sure that just baffles you. Keep talking sh1t man...

Just out of curiosity, how much power do any of your "performance cars" make?

Carlz0r said:

Honestly, if you're not planning on doing any engine work, I would look at upgrading to a 20g plus supporting mods. It's capable of 400-450hp which isn't too far off from your goals, and it'll spool faster than an HX40.

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Why pay more money for a 20g when an hx35 should be cheaper, more reliable, spools faster, and makes more power?