mosul210 said:

Just wanted to chime in and say the ducting looks great. Ever toyed with the idea of ducting aroung the front mount to force air through the IC/Radiator?

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I just did it the other day. It ended up being three pieces instead of the one I had planned on. I made the duct that went from the intercooler up to the radiator but then the sides were all open so I made two pieces to block off the sides as well. It turned out pretty nice, I hope it helps with this crazy hot Texas heat.

The gap before:


The bottom piece:


The side pieces being cut out:


The finished product:

^^ Terrific job.....that's exactly the same project I am doing with my GSX. Based on the templates I have it will look very similar.

mosul210 said:

^^ Terrific job.....that's exactly the same project I am doing with my GSX. Based on the templates I have it will look very similar.

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Thanks! I bolted each of the side pieces down in three places, the two "L" brackets you see there and I also bolted it in at the top to keep it secure and from vibrating. The after I was done I sealed all of the joints with duct tape (which is also called 100 MPH tape) to keep it as air tight as possible.

Great job yet again!

Have you noticed a significant improvement?

Great job, i had been curious what gauge metal to use, and now i know. Your work is clean and very well done.

You said you were using 24 gauge sheet metal. What is that in a decimal form? I am wondering because I have tons of colored .040 sheet metal used on our dirt modifieds (can be seen here https://www.circletracksupply.com/Aluminum-Sheet-Metal-24-x60.html ). I plan to make a duct for my side mount and maybe something for my air filter up top. Just wondering if you had any insight on me using the .040 sheet metal and how it would work.

24 gauge = .0239 inches.

Thanks for the info. Guess the sheet metal I have is a little thicker than what he used. Wonder if that would make things a little more difficult?

I think it would take a little bit more time to shape the sheet metals but it shouldn't be that bad. Personally I would get either thinner gauge or go aluminum. Don't want to add extra weight

Lol. I just thought I would use what I had. And with my sheet metal being colored, it would look a little different. Black, purple, etc, instead of the color of aluminum.

1990AWD said:

Great job yet again!

Have you noticed a significant improvement?

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Actually no. I've been having an over heating problem lately and I was hoping this would cure it but it didn't. I'm still hitting 230*+ just cruising on the highway. I'm going to try a lower thermostat next. Keep in mind its over 100* here.

KeelesKustome said:

Great job, i had been curious what gauge metal to use, and now i know. Your work is clean and very well done.

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Thanks!

9!'clipseDOHC said:

Actually no. I've been having an over heating problem lately and I was hoping this would cure it but it didn't. I'm still hitting 230*+ just cruising on the highway. I'm going to try a lower thermostat next. Keep in mind its over 100* here.

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Hmmm....If its overheating while cruising on the highway it does sound like an air flow issue. How thick is your FMIC core? Being from Texas myself I went with a 3" core to reduce the restriction to the radiator. I have never had an issue of overheating even while running full AC....I wish I had a way to log my water temperature though...would be nice to know what the ECU is logging.

mosul210 said:

Hmmm....If its overheating while cruising on the highway it does sound like an air flow issue. How thick is your FMIC core? Being from Texas myself I went with a 3" core to reduce the restriction to the radiator. I have never had an issue of overheating even while running full AC....I wish I had a way to log my water temperature though...would be nice to know what the ECU is logging.

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I agree, which is why I tried the ducting first. My core is 3.5" thick. It has been suggested to me that my fans (cx racing slim fans) could actually be hindering flow while at highway speeds. I'm considering some 1600 CFM SPAL fans next.

Have you considered adding a relayed toggle switch to kick your fans on and leave them on till you desire to turn them off, yet still allowing the ecu to kick them on, when it so desires.

KeelesKustome said:

Have you considered adding a relayed toggle switch to kick your fans on and leave them on till you desire to turn them off, yet still allowing the ecu to kick them on, when it so desires.

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No, not really. I can pretty much control at what temperature the fans come on (stock is 203*, I've got it at 193* now and I'm probably going to lower it some more) with the Coolant Offset feature but once they come on it isn't cooling down enough for them to turn back off. I don't really think adding a switch to turn them on manually will help.

I do have a local DSM buddy that has an extra stock fan and I'm going to try switching back to that because it's supposed to flow quite a bit more then the CX Racing fans. Also today I removed the center piece between the bumper and the hood and cut out some metal to hopefully allow more air to reach the radiator.

Conservation of mass

Mass flow in = mass flow out (in a closed system).

Thanks for the overly obvious . Now where does the energy lost moving the mass and the figuring of the total mass entering the system come into play with your basic math?

I have a slim fan pushing through the radiator, and the stock fan on the filter side, and it seems to cool much better than when i had 2 slim fans.

dsm-onster said:

Thanks for the overly obvious . Now where does the energy lost moving the mass and the figuring of the total mass entering the system come into play with your basic math?

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Irreversibilities (such as viscous effects) create entropy and heat in a closed loop environment.

Hey I know I may be late to the party but I was wondering how your air filter diy works when it rains? Is it drivable or did you figure out a way to make it work?