Well for one two pullers is what most people run.. Its more effective.. Two if your going to have a pusher it should be in front of the rad in-between the rad and IC..

If that's not an option then having the puller in front of the exhaust mani will cause things to stay hot as its blowing 1200degree+ temps from the exhaust into the rad as opposed to pulling top 100or so(if it gets that hot it didnt when i lived in NY) degree temps is just ineffective..

Id say turn the fan into a second puller, And remove the rubber trim on top of where the hood closes down right beside the inside of the car(Back of engine bay)This will allow more flow through the engine bay..

Third add some water wetter to the coolant sytem and forth if it still feels warm wrap the exhuast thats what im doing tommorrow .. Hope this helps any questions ask away..

Hey thanks for the quick response and tips. Do you run both fans as pulling? How many other people do vs one fan push one fan pull?

Have you pulled the seal yet? I ask as I live in Boston so part if me would be worried about water and snow getting in there.

The shop hooked them on wrong. The push pull method is push toward the radiator when mount i front of it and pull when mount in the position you have yours.

Having it mounted on the engine bay side but pushing away from the motor (ie. Towards the front of the car) is making the fans work pointless because its trying to push against the wind that is trying to enter your engine bay.

I run both as pullers..IDK how many people actually run 1push&1pull but i know from what ive seen there arent many that do..

Actually my car haas no splash guard or anything but the car came without them Eventually i might put them back on but i havent had any issues with belts so im not to worried about it...
And yep ive pulled the weather stripping out all the way around .. I pulled the weather stripping myself and ran it last winter without it
I never had and still havent had any issues with anything getting in there even when parked over night or something(and i dont have a garage)..
And 97ebaygst makes a good point on that also i didn't even think about that

Sorry, but how bad of an idea would it be to run just one pull? I cant fit both the stock pull fans because of my j-pipe and was woundering if this was a bad idea? I will get 2 push fans that will be mounted in front of the radiator and behind my fmic. Is this a bad idea?

^^^^^The guy i bought my car from said he thinks the headgasket blew because it had pushers in front and they couldn't push as fast as you drive causing a wall of air and no flow.. So i personally wouldn't do that.. And ya running one fan isnt a very good idea unless its like a 14inch puller.. the stock fans just really cant flow that good on a single unit.. If you have got slim fans already your going to set as pushers why not just wire those in as pullers& set them in place of the stockers???

Okay haha im a little confused. What i meant was if i got two slim fans and placed them inbetween the radiator and the fmic and pulled air into the engine bay. Would that be reliable? Or should i get two slim fans and use them in the stock location? And pull in air like stock?
Ps. I havent really driven the car around the city yet(no registration) just a couple pulls to test brake in the engine. Im just planning ahead so when its street worthy. Thanks a lot

Lol now im confused... Are you saying set the slim fans in between the rad&iIC and have them as pushers to help the puller??? If so no i personally don't think you should.

If your saying put them in that location and have them as pullers from the engine bay then i DEFINITIVELY WOULDN'T DO THAT..

If i was you id just take your slim fans and place them in the stock locations and have them as pullers like the stock ones. Its the best and most efficient way to have them..

Why wouldnt you use some in between the radiator and ic? And draw air from outside into the engine bay. Wouldnt that cool well?
And i would not do the second thing you suggested .

Because its not as efficient when sitting and when moving it will create a wall because they cant blow as fast as the air is trying to get threw them from driving.. And if there not on there even more of a wall..

It might help will the IC flow but the rad wont get nearly as efficient flow as it would with pullers that are behind it helping pull air as it comes in..

If i was going to put any type of fan personally in between the rad and IC it would be like a 6inch pair as pullers attached to the IC itself to help it cool air charge better and then its not in the way either..

Go back and read my post. The reason your method wouldn't work is because your fighting the natural flow of air that happens when the car moves foward. Fan are there to help that natural air flow not fight again it.

Ohh okay i think i understand now. So my best bet would be to get two slim fans and run them in the stock location as puller like the stock ones?(i cant keep the two stock ones because they dont fit Haha). And the reason i asked about having one fan was because a buddy of mine has just one fan and his car never overheats or anything. He has an RS if that matters.

^^thanks man i needed some backup hear hahaha..

97ebaygst said:

Go back and read my post. The reason your method wouldn't work is because your fighting the natural flow of air that happens when the car moves foward. Fan are there to help that natural air flow not fight again it.

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Im confused by the first post. What i was saying was use two fans that would push air into the engine bay from the out other side of the radiator (or pull from the Intercooler). Im not understanding how that would effect the natural flow? If its working with the air coming in and not against it? Correct me if Im wrong because i am clearly confused Hahaha.

scott90gsx420 said:

^^thanks man i needed some backup hear hahaha..

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Sorry man Im just lost Hahaha. Im just going to use them in the stock location.
Thanks for all the help though

Lol because they cannot push as fast as the air is coming in..

Alright thanks for all the help guys. I understand now . Stock location it is then

Boston said:

1st question: push pull combo is best, but right now the fan is pushing air towards the radiator so pulling air from in front of the exhaust manifold andpulling by the intake side. Should the fan be blowing air towards the exhaust manifold instead of pulling that air towards the radiator?

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This is WAY wrong! Thank about it, you are blowing hot air from the turbo into the radiator and you are blowing air into the air flowing through the radiator so making another obstruction. Fix this quick!

Boston said:

2nd question: how else to keep temps down? The bay is so hot I am worried about it. I installed a carbon fiber vent to get the radiator some air as the intercooler blocks the bottom bumper opening, but any other advice would be welcomed. Thanks in advance!

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I posted this on another thread just a few days ago. For you, first fix your fan problem. Then look into adding ducting between the intercooler and the radiator.

9!'clipseDOHC said:

I'm currently battling overheating issues as well and some things that I've seen or would suggest you check are:

• The ebay style slim fans (that come with the PR/CX radiators) flow about 900 cfm which is considerably less then the stock fans, which flow about 1600 cfm. That is probably a big part of your problem since it's only at low speed. Watch your fans while the engine is idling to verify that they are turning on when the should and that they are blowing air towards the engine.
  
• Another issue common to modified DSM's is that we remove the ducting from the air dam to the radiator and stick a big ol' FMIC in front of it. Now not only is the ducting gone so the air isn't being directed to the radiator but the air is actually being blocked by the FMIC. Consider making some ducting to route the air that passes through the intercooler up into the radiator.
  
• You can try lowering your water/coolant ratio (especially in the hot summers) from about 50%/50% to 70%30%. You can even throw in a bottle of water wetter if you would like. Also with the coolant make sure the system is full with no air bubbles and the reservoir is also full.
  
• Check your thermostat to make sure it's opening and circulating like it should. You can also try a lower temp thermostat, especially if you have an engine management system with a coolant offset feature like ECMlink. 1g's came stock with a 195* thermostat while 2g's came with a 180* thermostat.
  
• Lastly a compression and or leakdown test would be in order to check the headgasket. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

Hope this helps!

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Alex7747 said:

Im confused by the first post. What i was saying was use two fans that would push air into the engine bay from the out other side of the radiator (or pull from the Intercooler). Im not understanding how that would effect the natural flow? If its working with the air coming in and not against it? Correct me if Im wrong because i am clearly confused Hahaha.

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Pusher fans work, but not was well as pullers. The only time I would recommend using pushers (in front of the radiator, pushing air through the radiator) is if you didn't have room to mount then in the stock location. Otherwise, run pullers in the stock location.

Never go back to that "shop".

99gst_racer said:

Never go back to that "shop".

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agreed

So I had the fans fixed and rewired so both pulling air through the radiator now. So instead of pulling air from the burning hot exhaust manifold towards the radiator, the air is pulled from outside the bay and blows towards the manifold.

Also I had the coolant flushed and replaced, added some radiator relief (water wetter type stuff) and removed half of the weather stripping in the back of the bay where the hood meets the windshield. I tool off the side by the engine, and kept the side with the battery and intake intact.

Next step, I am hoping a turbo blanket will fit and help the cause.

^^Sweet man hows it working temps staying down for ya a bit?? And turbo blanket will definitively help with under-hood temps.. And it will help with spool times a bit too as it keeps the heat energy in the turbo.. Maby look into heat-wrapping the down pipe and o2housing thats what im doing as we speak .. It keeps melting one of my fans wires and im tired of rewiring every 3 trips..

An FMIC in and of itself is an obstruction that was not present on a stock set up.

Airflow over the radiator of sufficient CFM is absolutely key. More important than watter-wetter, etc.

I live in Miami FL and know all about dealing with the heat and at times near 100% humidity on a modded DSM.

I suggest you get TWO 12" Pullers. Spend the money and get good quality fans, like SPALs and - do it right. I had Flex-A-lite dual 12" fans in a shroud before and the SPALs blow them away. I would suggest two of the SPALs model # 30102038 below. Also get the SPAL bracket and strap kits to mount them, do NOT use POS pins that fit through the radiator with the connector on the other side - over time it will damage the radiator fins or even the perforate the radiator tubes.

Spal 12" HP Fan: A1 Electric Online Store

I have one of the above and one 11" HO model #30102800HO
which flows even MORE CFM but I also have a very high output 150 AMP Alterstart alternator (stock OEM alternators have weak charging amps).

You should also wire the fans such that when they do turn on they do so at full power. The stock configuration has a low and hi power setting that the ECU controls automatically. Can't find one right now but there are threads with instructions on how to wire them so that when they turn on it is always at full power. You can also wire both the main and condensor fan to run, regardless of if the A/C is on. IIRC regular operation is for one fan to turn on at a certain temp and then the second fan kicks on only when it starts to get pretty hot or when the A/C is turned on. I have mine set to both turn on and use ECMLINK to control at which temp they do so.

Trim with a box cutter or a dremel with a cutting wheel the top inner portion of the front bumper fascia so there is less of a blockage and restriction in front of the FMIC as follows:



Finally if you still have issues you can actually cut additional slots above that, and epoxy some aluminum or SST mesh behind the slots. You can also paint the mesh to match the car color. This adds a significant amount of additional air flow to the radiator especially if using an FMIC. The drawback is you are cutting the front bumper fascia and if you hack it up badly it can look bad. Will post some pics of same in the next day or two for you.

Good luck.

So I am at a local shop getting an alignment dne and they said they can completely remove the thermostat to help the system from overheat g. Has anyone else done this?

Never heard of this. It's a band-aid fix anyways. When the weather gets colder your car will never reach normal operating temperature. Follow the tips given in this thread and you will get your problem sorted out.