Hey everyone, if you want to buy one of Brian's products, PM him. This thread should not look like a thread out of the Vendor forum. Freelancers should be posting about products they sell in the Freelancer section of the classifieds, not here in the public forums. That's a perk reserved for Supporting Vendors only. Pricing, availability, etc, is not to be posted here in the public forums by anyone but a Supporting Vendor.

The fabrication forum was not meant to be a flea market where fabricators promote their stuff, it's a place to share ideas and methods for fabricating parts. I don't want to see posts like "hey, look what I built, and if there's enough interest, I'll sell them to people too". Please read this sticky I just posted at the top of this forum:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/399578-please-no-product-promoting-forum.html

I'll leave this thread open so Brian can discuss his methods and share ideas on how others can build their own tanks if he likes. But no more asking for pricing or talking about the selling of these tanks here please.

Ok, that's cool. Anyone have any questions that a allowed?

Are you still making the original 2g overflow tank's?

907gs-t said:

Are you still making the original 2g overflow tank's?

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After the replies above yours, I hope this isn't a sales question. PM him for that please. This is an informational discussion, not a sales discussion.

I was just wondering if he was still making them or not because I thought he wasn't going to make them anymore so I was looking for more info if he did quit making them or not.

But yes I will also pm him then to get the answer for that question.

Thanks

Got something in the mail today . In case anybody wants to build their own this is how it would look installed with the VRSPEED FMIC.

^ Awesome!
Will have to buy this before I get an FMIC this year.

I need to buy one now that my vrsf fmic has been in my garage like 3 months

For those of you looking to make something like this, a good way to put the pieces together, is corner to corner. That way you get a nice, strong fillet weld. I recently pressure tested a tank to 120psi and had no weld cracks. The big flat sufaces on the 1g tank did balloon, but no welds cracked. This is the strongest way to make something like this. I also used 4043 wire on it, so the material did have some give. If it used 5356, it probably would have cracked. Hope this info is useful to someone.

Man, they all look really good. I see you're using some rather thick stock is that 1/4 or 1/8th inch? Sometimes pics make it hard to tell since an aluminum bead can be really huge in comparison to the materials, but your tacks are nice and tight. I love welding aluminum, that pic has me jonesing to go pull the pedal and torch out of the blue plastic contractor case and start listening to some high frequency buzzing

92awdgsx said:

That way you get a nice, strong fillet weld.

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Outside corner welds are technically xG welds (1G, 2G, 3G, & 4G, depending on weld position), not fillet welds. Welding the pieces from the inside of the tank would yield fillet welds.

turboglenn said:

Man, they all look really good. I see you're using some rather thick stock is that 1/4 or 1/8th inch? Sometimes pics make it hard to tell since an aluminum bead can be really huge in comparison to the materials, but your tacks are nice and tight. I love welding aluminum, that pic has me jonesing to go pull the pedal and torch out of the blue plastic contractor case and start listening to some high frequency buzzing

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They are 1/8" thick. Thats one reason for the price. They are heavy duty. I hear buzzing in my sleep.

CODE4 said:

Outside corner welds are technically xG welds (1G, 2G, 3G, & 4G, depending on weld position), not fillet welds. Welding the pieces from the inside of the tank would yield fillet welds.

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On my prints at work, the weld symbols are for fillet on the corner to corner welds. The prints are drawn by the Army Corps of Engineers. I do all Military stuff. You will have to take that argument up with them.

Here is my coolant overflow for a 2G

PEGE said:

Here is my coolant overflow for a 2G

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

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Cool. Whats up with the grommet?

Is the top nipple for pressure relief?

I believe that is the overflow for the overflow.

You ever make something like this then get a hole that you keep chasing during welding? I made a catch can and it the longer pieces went on no problem but the top/bottom pieces were a pain in the ass. Got any tricks to hold the pieces in place? I can't seem to tack weld shit, I always need filler.

I never really had too many issues with holes. The only time I really had issues with holes is when I never put a pressure relief hole one a sealed piece like a tank. If you don't have a hole for the gases to go out through, they will try to come out of the last little bit of weld you have left on the piece and blow up through your puddle. You should make sure you clean the aluminum with alcohol or something that doesn't leave a residue. Dirt or residue will really screw your weld up. Check the pressure of you shielding gas. I run around 30 psi. The only tricks I have to hold it in place is to make your pieces dead on to the size that they will hold them selves and use steel blocks to hold them upright and put pressure on pieces when you need it. Blocks are your friend.

30psi, how many cfh is that? I am using about 10cfh on a gas lens.

That is not enough. On a flow meter I set it around 20-30, depending on what I'm doing. I'm also using a gas lens. For the tanks, I use a #7 cup.

92awdgsx said:

They are 1/8" thick. Thats one reason for the price. They are heavy duty. I hear buzzing in my sleep.

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Why so thick material? Can you do it in .063 or .080?

Because I like making things to last. The brackets won't break off because of vibration.

Where did you get those caps? I can't find any aluminum caps that are not $25 each with a bung. And the port you have on the side ?

Are the corners the most likely spot to crack?
What else have you made lately? I would love to see more work.

Gamble97 said:

Where did you get those caps? I can't find any aluminum caps that are not $25 each with a bung.

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Brian is using Pro-werks caps too, and those aren't cheap. I'd venture to say he's probably paying a bit more than $25 each for them. It's the price you pay to have a gorgeous finished product.