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Poor HS student build thread!

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Contact Jusmx141 on here, he can get your turbo in better shape for a damn good price!

Yes he can..

I have.... He quoted me 300 plus for new compressor wheel, and complete rebuild. No way im going to spend that on a turbo that I got for 150. I might just freshin her up with a rebuild and call it a day.

I don't think he quoted you 300 for a rebuild with a new compressor wheel..Last time I asked him what a rebuild on a td05 It wasn't anywhere near 300..Even with a new compressor wheel..
 
wow bro much props.. You deserve this car.. there are many young men out here that blow these up to sh!ts because they are ignorant to learn right from wrong.. they want to slap a big turbo.. crank the mbc and just pedal to the metal.. smh but you sir get props and i speak for alot of people..
 
Gotta love those gatorade bottles.

I put my stock coolant reservoir where the smic goes because that damn cap would spill over when boostin' :mad:

She's coming out good, keep it coming.
 
Thanks guys I really appreciate the positive feedback!

Did a few things to the Talon. Installed aluminum solid shifter cable bushings, and finally installed my fuellab AFPR. Since the AFPR is in a put in the wally 255 as well.

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I picked up a 1g Talon TSi AWD for the daily driver. 102k 6 bolt/4bolt combo for a good deal I couldnt pass it up.

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Since I found a DD, this winter the 20g set up is going on my 2g.

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I sold my blue tial wastegate and bought a brand new silver tial to match the engine bay

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Looking good man! I hope I can get some shiny stuff for my engine! What manifold is that? I am liking it, just hope it lasts for DD duty and wont crack like others.
 
Its actually OBX. It has a lifetime warranty so thats what sold me. I couldnt find an affordable DSM flanged manifold with ext. wastegate provisions. I got it for 205 shipped so I thought Id give it a try. The welds look really solid, only complaint this far is the flange for the wastegate isnt the flatest.

And this manifold wont be on dd status. Its going to be wrapped with exhaust wrapp to keep temps down.
 
If its not DD then it should be fine, but for a DD, I have heard that wrapping it isnt the best for cheaper manifolds due to it keeping the heat in and causing it to crack more.
 
Sup fellas, I got a little update. More of a parts update.

After reading all the reviews, I was sold. I picked up an XTD stage 4 clutch 2300pp and solid 6 puck
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Sold my used 850cc Injectors and used that money to buy some new precision 1200cc Injectors. Need lots of fuel for e85 and that 20g thats going on

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I decided on doing a whole suspension/brake overhaul. I bought new powerslot slotted front rotors and raybestos regular rear rotors. Hawk hps front and rear brake pads, and SS braided brake lines
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Also my 15 year old front suspension is a little worn out. Makes a new noise everyday. Got new OEM knuckle, curved and lower ball joint for both sides. New upper ball joint and tie rod ends. I have an energy suspension poly bushing set that will get installed as well.

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Last but not least, I got a new BOV. The dodge garage modded 1g bov I bought was surging and Im not even sure it was done correctly. So I picked up a new Forge motorsports 1g flange bov. Just installed it tonight so I dont know how it is yet.

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Oh and take a look at my rigged up battery hold down haha It was late sunday night, no stores open except walmart, Me and a buddy were hitting the track the next day (memorial day) for highschool drags and needed to rigg up a tie down to pass inspection. Used a ruler and a universal tie down. Turned out pretty good and passed inspection haha

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Thanks for looking. I will update when turbo and suspension gets installed.
 
Wish I could change the title for you guys haha as im not in highschool anymore and Im not poor anymore either. Living at home and working gives me the chance to blow pay check after pay check on my car. After suspension is done Im saving money.

On the subject of suspension, I need some opinions.

I was going to go Koni yellow with ground controls, But thats close to 800$ Should I just save a few extra bucks and get megan street series coil overs? What would you gus do if in my shoes
 
It really depends on what you're doing with this car. If you're just going to do a few pulls at Bandimere, suspension shouldn't be a huge concern. If you're going for club or autocross, I would go with the Koni yellows, GC kit, and the Road Race Engineering camber plates. Short of $2k coilovers, that's probably the best setup for the 1g and I would assume similar would be true in relation to the 2g.
It's a tried and true setup that's been put to the test.

I've heard and read that the KYB AGX is a close second behind the Koni/GC setup for the 1g and I know a lot of 2g drivers go for the Tokicos. As I understand it, these kits feel sporty and are fine for the street, but if you're serious about racing they won't cut it.

If you can afford it, buy the Konis while they still make them. They're not available for awd 1gs anymore.
 
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congrats T, man that talon has came long way since the last time i seen you but good sh*t and good work, maybe you can give me pointers this time around=)
 
Ray man hows it going?!?! Hows the Spyder doing?

So back on the suspension topic. What if I went with konis and then a lowering spring? I dont want anything more then 1.5 drop, as I scrape on everything as it is already. I also want a heavy spring rate. From research the tein springs are rather soft. Any other good springs out there?

I was going to go koni/tanabe springs. Puts me a little over 500 bucks. Im set on koni yellows. I almost want to give those cheap emusa coil overs a shot, but cant bring myself to doing it.
 
I would be extra careful with your spring choice and do a lot of compatibility research. I had a 2 gen MR2 that I had struts prematurely fail because the springs were incorrect. Long story short, I didn't do my homework and wasted a ton of money just to end up putting the OEs back on.

The GC kit will set you back some, but I think they will be worth it. Premature shock failure is very frustrating.
 
What I meant was that when you try to save money by going a cheaper option that isn't designed for its application, you open yourself to premature failures. Not saying it'll happen with your setup, but on my MR2 I had Skunk2 L springs and I can't remember what shocks, but the combination had already been tried and been a problem for many others. If I had just spent twenty minutes researching the setup that I wanted, I would've saved myself a lot of hassle.

Just trying to make sure you get what's right for your intentions :)
 
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