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G4cs block?

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DSM_munky_man

10+ Year Contributor
1,130
5
Sep 20, 2010
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Looking for a good g4cs block locally for a good price. It is the 6 bolt 2.4 block. Pm me and let me know.
 
Hmmm, didnt think about that. :smack: Guess I will venture there and see what I can find, then I can rebuild my 2.0 6 bolt for another project :D
 
This.

Personally, i stick to the 4g63 2.0 builds.

This. I told him numerous times but Jesse insists on buildng a high dollar unreliable engine that won't rev for #### and breaks more shit. BTW Jesse, if you really are doing the stroker shit, you really need to invest in a fluiddampner.
 
This. I told him numerous times but Jesse insists on buildng a high dollar unreliable engine that won't rev for #### and breaks more shit. BTW Jesse, if you really are doing the stroker shit, you really need to invest in a fluiddampner.

2.4 is not a stroker. And for the record Kevin Kiggly goes through the traps turning 9500rpm on a 2.3 stroker.
 
When I priced out stoker kits vs. stock rebuild with good pistons and stuff they all cost the same, so anyway you look at it I will be paying around the same anyway. And any stroker can be made able to rev just as easy as a 2.0, sure maybe not to 10k but I wouldnt even want to take it there even as a 2.0. All I want is a 8k revver and that can be easily achived in any stroker. And will be just as reliable as a 2.0 (as far as engine). And thank you for the suggestion on the fluidamper. :thumb:
 
2.4 is not a stroker. And for the record Kevin Kiggly goes through the traps turning 9500rpm on a 2.3 stroker.

Stroke, de-stroke, short rod, long rod, ect. ect. Point is not a 63 block and 63 crank. Kevin is god, and is probably paying enough for the proper parts and machine work to make his setup work. He also runs a head he made to run Evolution IX MIVEC VVT setup, don't mean it's for everyone.
 
Stroke, de-stroke, short rod, long rod, ect. ect. Point is not a 63 block and 63 crank. Kevin is god, and is probably paying enough for the proper parts and machine work to make his setup work. He also runs a head he made to run Evolution IX MIVEC VVT setup, don't mean it's for everyone.

He rebuilds his engine regularly. Oval pistons, and cylinders are what high revs do to a 100mm crank setup, when it's built good enough to not break.

A 100mm stroke at 8000rpms, is putting as much stress on psrts as a 2.0 revving to about 9500 rpms.

Oh, and there is that matter of needing an aftermarket crank, as the stock mitsu/hyuandai 100mm cranks have a habit of breaking at the #4 rod journal. But, live, break, and learn.

I've always run 4g63's and never had any engine problems. I tore down my engine a month ago to freshen it up, the rod bearings, and piston skirts looked brand new.

This is a good read for all 4g63 builders.
Stroke or Not, Mitsubishi 4G63
 
Oh, and there is that matter of needing an aftermarket crank, as the stock mitsu/hyuandai 100mm cranks have a habit of breaking at the #4 rod journal. But, live, break, and learn.

Precisely the reason I won't build one. It's hard enough to find a good 88mm stroke crank that isn't trash and hasn't been turned. Call me stubborn, I like to stick to what is tried and true, and what has been proven to work time and time again. The whole reason I got into these cars is that the bottom ends were stout enough to tolerate ridiculous power (for a 122cid engine). Giving that up defeats the purpose of choosing this platform as advantage over other "imports", IMO.

Donnie, do you mind sharing with us details on your last and current bottom end setup?
 
Precisely the reason I won't build one. It's hard enough to find a good 88mm stroke crank that isn't trash and hasn't been turned. Call me stubborn, I like to stick to what is tried and true, and what has been proven to work time and time again. The whole reason I got into these cars is that the bottom ends were stout enough to tolerate ridiculous power (for a 122cid engine). Giving that up defeats the purpose of choosing this platform as advantage over other "imports", IMO.

Donnie, do you mind sharing with us details on your last and current bottom end setup?

It's nothing special, 9.0:1 standard wisecos, eagle rods, stock 4g63 crank, and a n/t 6-bolt block that has been o-ringed. My PTW clearance is .0035", rod bearing clearances are all .0020", the mains are all between .0018"-.0020". Ring gaps are .021", and .024".


On a side note, i'll be driving it to pittsburgh next week for a little 2 week summer getaway. I've actually plotted a route i can make the trip on e85 the whole way, without having to do a retune for 91. Looking at the price difference, and the mileage i can get on e85, it's actually a little cheaper to run it instead of gas.


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Nice, Donnie. Are you running a composite gasket with the o-ring setup? Edit, read the profile, you are on the Felpro Composite. I was considering having my next block o-ringed, not sure if I should do it or just run an MLS/L19s and rock out.
 
Nice, Donnie. Are you running a composite gasket with the o-ring setup? Edit, read the profile, you are on the Felpro Composite. I was considering having my next block o-ringed, not sure if I should do it or just run an MLS/L19s and rock out.

Getting the block ringed, and running a composite was cheaper than the felpro mls. It should also seal better.

I really don't like the way most mls gaskets are setup either. There is no grommet around the combustion chamber, just 4 open ended layers of metal. It's fairly easy for combustion gasses to get in between the layers, and start pushing the gasket out, because there is no grommet sealing the chamber.

The Truth About Racing Head Gaskets
 
got 4 G4CS blocks one which I am using. I have too broke a crank at the 4th journal, but it was cut, which I didnt want it done. I got lucky. I got another crank from a core oem motor, got it polished balanced, and put a fluidampr on it . It lasted with the same internals (piston/rings/rods) since 2004 till now. Rod/ rod bearings were perfect journals no scoring or abnormal wear. Its ready for magnaflux and a polish. 8500/8750 on the limiter through 3rd in the 5spd, and upwards of 36psi on pump gas on a gt4294, then into a auto for a year.

If its built right you wont have issues, but its a motor and your pushing it, shit happens.
 
got 4 G4CS blocks one which I am using. I have too broke a crank at the 4th journal, but it was cut, which I didnt want it done. I got lucky. I got another crank from a core oem motor, got it polished balanced, and put a fluidampr on it . It lasted with the same internals (piston/rings/rods) since 2004 till now. Rod/ rod bearings were perfect journals no scoring or abnormal wear. Its ready for magnaflux and a polish. 8500/8750 on the limiter through 3rd in the 5spd, and upwards of 36psi on pump gas on a gt4294, then into a auto for a year.

If its built right you wont have issues, but its a motor and your pushing it, shit happens.

Damn, why can't you be closer so I could snag a block off you! Lol
 
Stroke, de-stroke, short rod, long rod, ect. ect. Point is not a 63 block and 63 crank. Kevin is god, and is probably paying enough for the proper parts and machine work to make his setup work. He also runs a head he made to run Evolution IX MIVEC VVT setup, don't mean it's for everyone.

He did wha?!?! WTF
 
I would recommend keeping the 4g block as well. I have 19,000 miles on my 2.3L. Pulled the pan to redo the gasket and everything looks brand new inside and I have only lost 4psi of compression from when the motor was first build. The streetability is fantastic too. A 2.4L block doesn't just "bolt in" to a DSM either. The block itself is a little taller.
 
I would recommend keeping the 4g block as well. I have 19,000 miles on my 2.3L. Pulled the pan to redo the gasket and everything looks brand new inside and I have only lost 4psi of compression from when the motor was first build. The streetability is fantastic too. A 2.4L block doesn't just "bolt in" to a DSM either. The block itself is a little taller.

It does't just bolt in? For some reason my G4CS bolted right in LOL. There is a lot of good post on evolutionm.net about the blocks, and awdmotorsports says one of the best things about the G4CS is that you can run a 87mm bore, and the taller deck allows you to have a little more meat on the piston for the pin location.

I put 8 years on my G4CS internals, and when a pistons finally decided not to take it anymore, it came apart with perfect bearings/rods and one beat up piston. Thats running straight 93 pump gas 25-36psi between a 60-1 p trim and a gt4294 and nitrous all of its life. The motor has never seen less then 25psi, and has never seen more then 93 octane.
 
Hey thanks, it should, to my knowledge bolt in, just the 6mm higher deck clearance is he difference. Also no oil swuirtsrs, but wih forged you shouldn't see a problem.

But I decided to ditch that idea for now cause I found a guy that is selling a 91 with a 2.3 fully built by phuong, and imma do that and out he engine in my at then build the 2.0 for a dd rally car and stick it in the 91 and keep it close to stock.
 
Hey thanks, it should, to my knowledge bolt in, just the 6mm higher deck clearance is he difference. Also no oil swuirtsrs, but wih forged you shouldn't see a problem.

But I decided to ditch that idea for now cause I found a guy that is selling a 91 with a 2.3 fully built by phuong, and imma do that and out he engine in my at then build the 2.0 for a dd rally car and stick it in the 91 and keep it close to stock.

Whose car are you looking at with the 2.3?
 
They guys name skips my mind right now, but he lives in Los Lunas, NM. He is a friend of Phuong's and that is how I found out about it. It's no one local.
 
Also no oil swuirtsrs, but wih forged you shouldn't see a problem.

Another reason why I feel the turbo blocks are superior, are the squirters. I have heard of people getting rid of them, due to "not needing them" with forged internals, however I disagree with this. Mitsubishi put them in for a reason, and properly functioning squirters are helping. Of course, a good aftermarket oil cooler will help as well, but I'd still rather keep the squirters, even machine the provisions for them in the 4G64 block as I hear some people do.
 
Oil squirters do help, but Mitsubishi put them there to aid the stock CAST pistons, and its more of a over engineering thing then it needing to be there. Most shops prefer no squiters in a built 2.4 because it directs oil to more needed areas. Do a search on evom. AWDmotorsports, and Buscher both talk about the oil squirter subject.
 
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