bu3bu3 said:

Royal Purple XPR Racing Oil 20w 50 and it works without any issues.

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Except that for the price of 3 oil changes you could upgrade your turbo.

You could use Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1 and get the same or better performance for 1/3 the price.

calan said:

Except that for the price of 3 oil changes you could upgrade your turbo.

You could use Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1 and get the same or better performance for 1/3 the price.

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The problem is that brad Penn is not as easily found as royal purple. It doesn't seem like you can just buy it at any auto stores. Other than buying it online, I haven't seen it anywhere.
by the way. Where do you get your brad Penn oil?

Thanks.

El Cuervo said:

The problem is that brad Penn is not as easily found as royal purple. It doesn't seem like you can just buy it at any auto stores. Other than buying it online, I haven't seen it anywhere.
by the way. Where do you get your brad Penn oil?

Thanks.

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Smiley's Racing carries it locally here. I've seen VR-1 in several places.

Never heard of this oil before. I was looking it up here a few minutes ago online and they have a break in oil is it good. Has anyone used it before ? Im about to have to break in a motor.

There's a lot of info on this, but just use a decent cheap dino oil and a good filter for the first few hundred miles, and change it often. Then switch to a good synthetic at 1000 or 1500 miles or so.

Lots of threads (and arguments) on break-in.

Arguements is a little bit more like it

calan said:

Except that for the price of 3 oil changes you could upgrade your turbo.

You could use Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1 and get the same or better performance for 1/3 the price.

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Its just an option.

I deal with jackson's auto machine AKA "JAM" here in Maryland which I got my

long block done with them. They used to use Royal Purple XPR 20w50 now they

are using Brad Penn and it is funny you have mentioned it because they have

stopped carrying Royal Purple XPR 20w50 at all. You have saved some time to

find where can I find it locally.

The previous owner i bought my 1g from been running 5w-30 5w-40 synthetic yr round i was shocked when he said that cause mostly all dsmers run 10w or higher but he said because it has a rebuilt motor there is no need to use such thicker wieght? The motor has 30k miles and it has moderate mods so wouldnt 5w-40 synthetic oil say in summer be bad to use? Do u think shell rotella t6 synthetic 5w-40 can be used in a talon with moderate mods because thats what i have in the car now but its not summer yet but im thinkin to switch to a 10w-40 in summer but this 5w-40 is even tougher then a 15w-40 is and a 10w-40 so im thinkin to run it yr round?

I do believe we discussed this a few pages back, IIRC... .

In addition to driving style and regional climate, I am sure that your bearing clearances are another factor to take into consideration. This is especially true for fresh builds.

Amsoil all the way.....for one reason only. all oil brands always compared their oil against brand "X". Amsoil actually put down what brand they compare it against....and that alone sold me.

I use penzoil platinum full synth 10w30 i used to use Q horsepower but it turns into water for some reason , i use this in the talon and both the trucks it gave some life back to the older truck (89 gmc) and the talon runs much smoother too.

calan said:

I'll toss this bit of good reading out there before this thread gets closed or merged:

Forced Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil

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Thank you for posting this i found it a long time ago but could never find it again.

Its the reason i switched to vr1 10-30.

calan said:

I'll toss this bit of good reading out there before this thread gets closed or merged:

Forced Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil

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That link and info fp wrote about oils is for cars making more then 400hp on a 4g63 so it doesnt go for everyone is dsm. I talked to fp and they said over 400 u should be running thicker stuff or built motor this is why that link is misleading cause if u read it they said 100hp per piston and there test was in a evo making 600awhp at 33psi of course mobil 1 is not gonna work in that situation!

talontsiboy24 said:

That link and info fp wrote about oils is for cars making more then 400hp on a 4g63 so it doesnt go for everyone is dsm. I talked to fp and they said over 400 u should be running thicker stuff or built motor this is why that link is misleading cause if u read it they said 100hp per piston and there test was in a evo making 600awhp at 33psi of course mobil 1 is not gonna work in that situation!

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Still why not put the good stuff in our babies anyways!

bradselph said:

Still why not put the good stuff in our babies anyways!

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20w-50 is def not needed like they said 400hp or more then go for it. u can find zinc and phos in non race oils like mobil 1 10w-30 high mileage it has 900phos 1000zinc,mobil 1 15w50 1200phos 1300zinc shell rotella t6 5w40 it has 1200phos 1200zinc or valvoline extreme blue 5w40 1200phos 1200zinc.

Alot of dsmers run really thick oil to bandaid there issues like oil leaks,bad valve seals,and burning oil why not fix the problem and run the right stuff in there? I run fully synthetic always but not the same weight yr round and if u didnt hear u can make a lil extra power running lighter weight oil cause your motor doesnt have to work so hard to move that thick ass oil where its needed depending on your application.

Remember guys that most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too thick to lubricate properly.‎20w-50 oil means that your engine has to work 40% harder just to move the oil around inside your engine. An engine with thick oil produces significantly less power, uses more fuel, produces more emissions and runs hotter, all contributing ...to shorter engine life. A thinner oil can more easily and quickly be pumped up to the critical parts of the engine, takes less energy to move it around, helps the engine to produce more power, less emissions and better fuel economy.

this what a diesel mechanic said: I work on tons of diesel engines from caterpillar to Mercedes Benz. Some making 200hp and some making OVER 2200 hp at a low 2100 rpm. and I've seen some engines over 600k miles on it without a rebuild, and ...some with twin turbos the size of your head that get red hot. if diesel oil can do that and support 2k hp engines then I dont see whats wrong with it in a gas engine, both have turbos, both run at around 190-200 degrees ish and all this shows diesels have much more they need to support so they have more additives plus dont have the converters (actually they do now but not the same kind a gas engine has) like some gas cars so they can have more additives in them to not worry about killing the gas converters.

So how is the rotella t6 5w40 working for you?? Will you be running it on summer? Though it is 5w40, according to what the jug says and shells website, this oil is design to run in extreme temperatures (very cold and very hot). It starts thinner than 10w30 but its supposed to withstand much more heat.
So what do you think? I read that one of the wisemen here was or is running the rotella t6 oil and he was going to send it in for a lab test. That would be very interesting to see how well the oil performed.

El Cuervo said:

So how is the rotella t6 5w40 working for you?? Will you be running it on summer? Though it is 5w40, according to what the jug says and shells website, this oil is design to run in extreme temperatures (very cold and very hot). It starts thinner than 10w30 but its supposed to withstand much more heat.
So what do you think? I read that one of the wisemen here was or is running the rotella t6 oil and he was going to send it in for a lab test. That would be very interesting to see how well the oil performed.

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If u have oil leaks or running thick oil to cover them up dont run any thin weight synthetic oil cause it will show those leaks and it can be messy but if u have a nice tight motor then it will be perfect! Rotella t6 has improved my dsm alot better then mobil 1 the car runs smoother and lifter tick is pretty much gone also oil pressure is perfect plus it has alot of zinc and phos and yes 5w is awesome for startups cause it gets to all the parts faster then a thicker weight would and when the engine is warmed up its a 40. Its been tested and was tougher then 15w-40 and held up better then mobil 1 motor oils. By the way that guy sent out the t6 oil already to the labs and sent me a link everything came back awesome im gonna try and find the link for you but yea go for it.

Thank you very much man. Yeah. I'd like to see the test results. I don't have any oil leaks and I've only used royal purple 10w30 on my car since its rebuild back in 2005. So how would it perform on summer heat driving? I would love to see a lab test done on 3000 miles of summer driving rotella t6 oil.

I recommend Valvoline oils, Millers, Liqui Moly to the engine and Red Line Oil for gearbox and differential

Mobil 1! Hands down

Mobil 1 is not as great ones that I mentioned above, they beat him on the head. They are way better higher temperature and lower consumption

Green Earth Technologies

Green Motor Oil, based on biodegradable materials. Supposedly outperforms most fully syn brands. I'm using it next oil change and I'll post back with results

Royal Purple 5w-30

I didn't read though the whole thread so sorry if someone already posted this but it is some good info.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf