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Starting to crankwalk? Used dial indicator.

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saechao04

15+ Year Contributor
462
3
Aug 8, 2006
portland, Oregon
After getting my car tuned, I drove it for about a week. I started noticing that the clutch sticks to the floor when I go to shift after hard left turns. When this started happening, I started hearing a clicking sound from the driver side engine, the click gets louder when I step on the clutch. My initial thought was that my TOB was going but after some searching, I found a thread that had a similar problem and ended up being crankwalk.

I measured the crank end play and its .0055", which is within spec. Am I starting to walk or am I just getting paranoid. Should I drive it for another week or so and measure again?
 
I've put less than 5,000 miles on it since it was rebuilt.

The clicking/ticking is definitely coming from the timing belt side. I'm worried that my crank may be starting to eat the cps.
 
Take off your timing cover and check your crank position plate. if its hitting the Crank Sensor when you press the clutch You can tell right away. Its a crank walk...

This happens to me with my engine , i use to heavy oil and freshly rebuild 7 bolt engine with removed balance shafts , and i didn't port the relieve valve on the oil filter housing. all my oil was going to the head. and my trust bearing run out of oil i get crank walk after 1000 miles.

what oil you use ? And what is your oil pressure by the way do you have gauge ?
 
Checking the cps was my next step, ran out of time to check that today. I broke in my motor with regular oil and have just moved to mobil 1 full synthetic a month ago.
 
what weight ?

I used 5w-30 or 10w-30. I forgot.

Did you push the crank all the way back towards the trans side before you used the dial indicator?

Yes I did. The way I did it was: Push crank towards the transmission side, zero out dial indicator, and then pulled crank towards driver side. I used a pry bar to push the crank in and pull the crank out.
 
Generally, if there were no signs of "crankwalk" before the rebuilt, and there are now at 5000 miles, you screwed the pooch on the build.

Did you replace the harmonic damper?
 
I am unsure if the harmonic damper was replaced or not, I had a shop do the entire rebuild. If I had to guess, it would be no.

If it is a bad harmonic damper and if my crank is starting to walk, I'm guessing it'll be too late to just replace the harmonic damper?
 
The only question I have is weather or not the oil pressure is good AT IDLE after the car is at full running temp.....If your oil pressure gauge isn't at least 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up at idle and you have an aftermarket clutch with a high pressure clutch cover then you may be in trouble....but if your oil pressure is good from cold idle to hot idle then thats probably not going to be the issue.....crank walk is hard to cause if you engine changes are modest and the engine is built right..... it would be attributed to oil shearing off the thrust bearing while your stopped at a light with your foot on the clutch for extended periods (something I never do out of old habit)
anywho it's easy to see if thats ok just by gauge checking...if it's not right it could be anything from a leaking pick up tube on the oil pump to a stuck oil pressure relief valves or oil squirters leaking down oil pressure........

Just a thought....
 
Thanks for all the replies. I haven't noticed anything different on my oil pressure gauge, but then again, I don't pay much attention to it. I will let her warm up tomorrow and check on the oil pressure. Maybe I can get a video of the sound its making, that might help a bit.

I never rest my foot on my clutch pedal while driving or at a stop.

So far from the responses, I should 1) check oil pressure 2) check cps
 
if you have crankwalk you can check your oil... Drain it and inspect for bearing peaces in it .... my oil was full with shit coming off from the trust bearing .... and also when i press the clutch my RPM were going down since i use 2600 act pressure plate and put alot of tension on the trust bearing.
 
I measured it from 6 different spots, roughly indicated by the red dots. This isn't my crank pulley, I didn't feel like going out and snapping a picture.

That's a good idea pursuit, I'll do that on Sunday.
 

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Yeah deffinately want to measure from the bolt. The pulley or harmonic dampener has hard rubber between the pieces and will flex. Maybe measure between flywheel and block. Just take sheild off from the bottom of bellhousing. Also the crank would need excessive play to hit the sensor. So much that you should be able to move it by hand. Hope for a bent trigger plate or something.
 
Thanks guys! I will definitely measure it from the crank bolt and from the flywheel side to get a better reading! I remember seeing this the link you linked me above, that's why I got the dial indicator, but I forgot the correct way to measure crankshaft end play.
 
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