More than likely bad coil pack since 1 and 4 are on one and 2 and 3 the other. Get a book and test the coil to find out for sure but that's where I would start.

If your running on two cylinders, then your dumping raw fuel into your oil. The unburnt fuel is draining by your rings. I suggest performing on oil change as soon as your done tracking the ignition problem. Do you have an electrical meter and/or a test light?

Could be a bad coil since cylinders 1 and 4 are on a coil and cylinders 2 and 3 are on another coil. It could also be bad ignitor/power transistor. It could be a bad wire from the ecu to the power transistor, or a bad ecu too. The ecu provides an on/off signal to the power transistor to signal the firing of the coils, so if the signal is not reaching the power transistor it won't fire the coils.

Thank you! I'm going to switch coil packs with a buddy of mine to see if it actually is the coil pack. I don't have an electrical meter/test light.

I hope it is just the coil pack. I can find a used one on ebay and swap it in myself. The spark plug wires are brand new and I'm not sure if they need to be in any particular order. I heard there is a diagram on tuners somewhere showing how the order is. Can someone link it here so I can also check that out before investing in another coil pack?

Had the same problem on a 1995 2g and it was the cam position sensor behind the intake cam gear. I was able to change it without having to reset the timing belt, which made it a 2 hour job.

If it is not the coil then it is most likely the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor. For example the cam position tells 1 & 4 to fire while the crank tells 2 & 3 to fire. If one of those is bad then that will be the issue. Insure both are plugged in.

viperlp01 said:

If it is not the coil then it is most likely the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor. For example the cam position tells 1 & 4 to fire while the crank tells 2 & 3 to fire. If one of those is bad then that will be the issue. Insure both are plugged in.

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It makes sense. When I got the car, the whole car was stock but there were wires all over the place and some even not plugged in. The fuse box is even underneath the air filter at the moment. I have to figure all that out soon as I get out at work. Thanks a lot!

I'll update everyone by tonight.

Go ahead and pick up a good test light at your local parts house. You NEED to learn electrical troubleshooting as soon as possible. There are many online resources for basic automotive electrical systems and how they work. This is a great place to start.

http://www.the12volt.com/

viperlp01 said:

If it is not the coil then it is most likely the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor. For example the cam position tells 1 & 4 to fire while the crank tells 2 & 3 to fire. If one of those is bad then that will be the issue. Insure both are plugged in.

Click to expand...

I thought one sensor triggered spark and the other triggered the injectors.

im pretty sure its your coil pack-man.. The only reason i could believe that it could be the CAS is because when they did the headgasket on your car.. its possible they didnt plug it in correctly..

Turns out it was a bad coil pack. It roared back to life when my friend and I hooked it up. Now I got all 4 cylinders working as it should, I learned that my BOV is leaking. We kept tightning the screw on top and I never even power surged. I took it off and replaced it with a knock off for now but it never had a gasket.

Could having no gasket be the reason why my GREDDY type S BOV was leaking air?