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Which is cheaper?

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Which bearing? Generally the rod bearings are more often what goes first but on the off chance you spun a main bearing you may need to have the block align honed or possibly bored for oversize bearings if the damage is bad enough.

If a rod, you likely will need to have the crank journal polished a tad, if it needs to be turned down for oversized bearings it is better to source a new undamaged crankshaft. There are different reasons for this, some shops will machine them but it is not a great idea. The cranks are gas nitrided stock and cutting them that far will removed that hardened outer layer. Also getting a nice fillet at the edge of the journals is very important to the overall strength of the crankshaft and if not machined very specifically this can be completely messed up. Mitsubishi does list these cranks as non-serviceable, as in find a new one.

Also you may need a new rod as well.

If you buy all new parts they still need to be gone through and measured for proper clearance going together and possibly machined. It would be silly to pretty much replace the entire bottom end and not put new piston rings in it which will require the cylinder walls to be honed to seat them.

At that rate it would be silly not to have the block deck surfaced as well so you are pretty much looking at a full rebuild and full bill at the machine shop for that. It will cost you more but you will have a new engine.

It is likely that if the damage is not terrible from the spin that repairing the damaged parts could be fairly cheap and at worst will still be cheaper than a full rebuild.

That is short term, the fresh build is probably going to last longer and take more abuse if the machine work is done well.

It is important to take it all apart and clean out the oil passages to remove any bearing material that has passed through the engine. This is obviously not an issue if you replace or fully machine the block, it will be cleaned at the machine shop. Although it is not a bad idea to go over and scrub a freshly machined block again before final assembly also.
 
Very good response TimIacbucci!

When I spun my balance shaft bearings I replaced the crankshaft, lifters, bearings, pistons, and oil pump. I was able to reuse the rods (which I had machined onto Wiseco Pistons) and had the block machined. The head I disassembled and cleaned myself with several cans of brake cleaner, spraying through all the oil passages to get all the gunk out. If you are getting new pistons you need to have the block machined and honed anyways. Like TimIacobucci was saying, might was well do it right.
 
I cleaned mine and did the bse, kept the pistons, and crank, it was good block was in great shape, all after i had a head gasket and decided to do some mainteance.
 
In my opinion, I would say if you are going to start modding, now is the time to prepare your block for future upgrades. If it were me, I would get everything machined and get a nice rotating assembly going. I wish this were the case for me. I did my block last and risked the chance of ruining all the work I did if anything were to happen. I think its worth your while :thumb:
 
Thanks for everyones input. I'll machine my block I have now and if I need a new rod and crankshaft, ill get the top of the line. Actually I was looking at Frankenstein rods and piston, you all heard of them? If so, are they good?
 
They definitely work, but I was recommended to go with a Eagle Weisco combination. It once again all depends on what your goals are in the future. You can get some really good deals on a nice rotating assembly through extremepsi.com.
 
What kind of numbers is the stock crank capable of holding? This was a question of mine when I was looking into my rebuild. I know the stock bottom end is capable of holding up against some decent power correct? If this is the case then yes I would go with the stock crank too
 
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