Blurred Talon
15+ Year Contributor
- 2,307
- 43
- Jan 2, 2004
-
Paradise,
NL_Canada
Awesome work Eric.
This thread will be a great help to me as I slowly rebuild my car.
This thread will be a great help to me as I slowly rebuild my car.
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I found this plug for $30.
Weather Pack 22 position bulkhead connector kit DIYAutoTune.com
Did anyone use anything similar? That site has nice weather pack kits too.
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If you don't mind me asking, do you know how much it cost to do all this?
What do you consider "all of this"? There was a lot done in this thread.
I believe I totaled up the battery relocation at one point and it was between $600 and $800 (don't think that included the battery).
I don't have the totals for the wiring, but I think that was also around $500-$600 or so. Eric would have to look that up for you if you wanted a more exact quote.
The media blasting/powdercoating we do ourselves so I can't really give an answer for you on that.
RTV/sealants is maybe $50? Just go to your local auto parts store or WalMart and they'll have them. We know what RTV/sealant to use from reading. All paper gaskets get copper spray, some get a tiny dab of RTV either in spots that could be prone to leaking or just to make sure they're sealed up well in certain areas. The different color RTV's are for different uses, which it'll say on the tubes.
Guess I might as well post my vacuum block setup here for reference.
-10 bung welded to manifold
Earl's Prolite hose and fittings
Golden Eagle vacuum block
Stock bov and fpr nipples removed, plugged with 1/16" SS NPT set screws
Stock pcv nipple removed, tapped for 1/8" NPT, used a 90* fitting for easier hose routing towards the passenger side
Boost gauge, brake booster, fpr, bov, and mbc are fed from the block, pcv and map are in the intake manifold (map is where brake booster used to be for quick response).
The block mounting points happened to be the perfect spacing to use the bosses on the manifold that used to hold the support bracket. I put two bolts in those bosses, then drilled/tapped through the middle of the head down the length of the bolt, then the little bolts for the block thread into the big bolts. I did this to clean up and hide some hoses, but more importantly so I could eliminate any T's and so my map sensor could be directly threaded into the intake manifold. As you can see in the pictures above, the whole setup is basically unnoticeable. At the NE DSM meet, only one person actually noticed the line off the intake manifold.
(You can also see my IAT placement for speed density).
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On a 2ga I wasn't able to mount mine vertically because it would have been completely obscured by the bumper and things are a little tighter in the 2ga. Relocating the horn let me put it in a good spot relative to the air vent.
This is not what I want to be hearing I have the same cooler that we need to install on my 2ga. I told Eric the other day that I need to switch to a 2gb front bumper to accommodate this monster, but he says we can make it work. This doesn't give me much hope to be able to mount it as we did on his car.