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My fuse box relocation (project log)

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What do you consider "all of this"? There was a lot done in this thread.

LOL I should've been more specific.

I mean the the wiring, connectors, battery relocation items, powder coating, and all the rtv and other sealants you used.

And btw, how did you know what kind of sealant to use on what gasket and how much?

I hope you understand this; I'm not good at putting words onto paper. LOL.
 
I believe I totaled up the battery relocation at one point and it was between $600 and $800 (don't think that included the battery).

I don't have the totals for the wiring, but I think that was also around $500-$600 or so. Eric would have to look that up for you if you wanted a more exact quote.

The media blasting/powdercoating we do ourselves so I can't really give an answer for you on that.

RTV/sealants is maybe $50? Just go to your local auto parts store or WalMart and they'll have them. We know what RTV/sealant to use from reading. All paper gaskets get copper spray, some get a tiny dab of RTV either in spots that could be prone to leaking or just to make sure they're sealed up well in certain areas. The different color RTV's are for different uses, which it'll say on the tubes.
 
I believe I totaled up the battery relocation at one point and it was between $600 and $800 (don't think that included the battery).

I don't have the totals for the wiring, but I think that was also around $500-$600 or so. Eric would have to look that up for you if you wanted a more exact quote.

The media blasting/powdercoating we do ourselves so I can't really give an answer for you on that.

RTV/sealants is maybe $50? Just go to your local auto parts store or WalMart and they'll have them. We know what RTV/sealant to use from reading. All paper gaskets get copper spray, some get a tiny dab of RTV either in spots that could be prone to leaking or just to make sure they're sealed up well in certain areas. The different color RTV's are for different uses, which it'll say on the tubes.

ok thanks. gives me a good idea of what to expect for a similar project in the future.
 
HFS!!!!

I held the King of Bling title for the last 2 years of DSMCA competition, along with 6 other trophies. I paid people to do my powder coating. All the stuff you're looking for in this thread is laying around in my garage because I've done all of this (with the exception of the wire tuck). I did a $840 engine, body and interior fastener order replacing nearly every one of them at 124k miles.

What I'm getting at is... I wouldn't stand a chance against this car if they're parked. This is probably the cleanest and most meticulous build I've seen because the build quality you dedicated to the engine continued through the body of the whole car. I'm not crazy or unemployed enough to do it on a car with a working electrical system. That's a compliment in a very odd way. If there's one thing I wish I could change is the sloppy OEM wiring harness. Will probably never do it, but if I do, I know who to ask.

This thread is full of win. Jafro approves. :thumb::thumb: Primo resto-mod!
 
Guess I might as well post my vacuum block setup here for reference.

-10 bung welded to manifold
Earl's Prolite hose and fittings
Golden Eagle vacuum block
Stock bov and fpr nipples removed, plugged with 1/16" SS NPT set screws
Stock pcv nipple removed, tapped for 1/8" NPT, used a 90* fitting for easier hose routing towards the passenger side

Boost gauge, brake booster, fpr, bov, and mbc are fed from the block, pcv and map are in the intake manifold (map is where brake booster used to be for quick response).

The block mounting points happened to be the perfect spacing to use the bosses on the manifold that used to hold the support bracket. I put two bolts in those bosses, then drilled/tapped through the middle of the head down the length of the bolt, then the little bolts for the block thread into the big bolts. I did this to clean up and hide some hoses, but more importantly so I could eliminate any T's and so my map sensor could be directly threaded into the intake manifold. As you can see in the pictures above, the whole setup is basically unnoticeable. At the NE DSM meet, only one person actually noticed the line off the intake manifold.

(You can also see my IAT placement for speed density).

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Do you have an part numbers for the fittings you used?
 
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My oil cooler setup posted for reference.

I used a Setrab 50-625-7612 cooler. See these pages for more info and specs on that cooler:
http://setrabusa.com/pdf/ProLine_STD_Weights_Capacities_112610.pdf
http://setrabusa.com/pdf/Application_and_performance_suggestions_112610.pdf
http://setrabusa.com/pdf/ProLine_STD_Dims_112610.pdf

And I used an Evo 9 OFH. See here for more info on that.

Parts list:
(2) "steel back plates with rubber damping pads, threaded M6-1" - purchased straight from Setrab
Earls -10 Pro-Lite hose
(2) Earl's low profile 45* hose end - AT804510
Earl's 45* hose end - AT804610
Earl's 90* hose end - AT809110
M6x1.0x16 SS button head bolts w/ washers and lockwashers
M8x1.25x16 SS allen head bolts w/ washers and lockwashers
1/8" x 3/4" steel brackets

BAT parts:
(2) Banjo M22 x -10AN - BJ2210M
(2) Banjo Bolt M22 x 1.5 - BJBM22
(4) Bonded Seal 22mm - DS-M22
(2) Banjo M18 x -10AN - BJ1810M
(2) Banjo Bolt M18 x 1.5 - BJBM18
(4) Bonded Seal 18mm - DS-M18

The connections at the OFH use the low profile 45* hose ends with the 18mm banjo fittings. The lower oil cooler connection uses the 90* hose end with a 22mm banjo fitting, and the upper oil cooler connection uses the 45* hose end with a 22mm banjo fitting.

I also remote located my two oil pressure senders (one for VEI gauge, the other for logging in ECMLink).
Parts list:
VEI oil pressure sender
SSI Technologies sender P51-200-G-B-I36-4.5V-R (734-1008-ND from Digikey)
1/8" aluminum bracket
5/8" rubber coated hose clamps
1/8" BSP to -4 adapter
Earl's 9" -4 hose 64191909
Russell Performance Tee Adapter 661711
Russell Performance 1/8" NPT to -4 adapter 660421
DEI Thermal Tuning Products Fire Sleeve & Tape Kit - 5/8" I.D. x 36" 010472


Notes:
-This is pretty much the biggest cooler that can be stuffed in this space as I have it oriented. I have only millimeters of clearance to the bottom of the bumper cover, the side of the bumper cover, the bottom of the headlight, and the frame rail. The cooler pretty much hangs as low as my bumper cover, yet is pushing up on the headlight wires so it's as high as it can go. I had to use the banjo fittings to be able to clear the frame rail. I also had to use banjo fittings at the OFH to clear the splash shield and retain ground clearance.
-I put two layers of thick heat shrink on the headlight wires where the cooler touches them.
-I would have preferred to use the mounting positions on the bottom of the cooler too, but it just wasn't possible. With three mounting brackets on the top positions the cooler is adequately secured. The inner two brackets go to the framerail, and the outer bracket goes to the ABS pump bracket.
-After talking with others, I believe I have the lines set up correctly with the oil cooler feed in the bottom and return port on top. A quick check after driving showed that the cooler was hotter on the bottom than the top, which would prove it is setup correctly. However, that was just with my hands so I'll try to get temperatures with an IR thermometer later to verify.
-The DEI fire sleeve was used both to prevent heat from getting to the lines (also covers my turbo oil feed line), but also to prevent the SS lines from rubbing into my Pro-lite hoses. With retaining the splash shield, the routing of the lines is extremely tight. However, the splash shield still fits perfectly fine with only a bit of clearance to the components.
-I cut out the vents in my fender liner to allow airflow. My brothers fender liners were already cut out from the factory but mine weren't, so I'm not sure which cars had which configuration. I may cut out additional vents in the future if I feel it is warranted.
-In the future I plan to make a duct (fiberglass?) to efficiently route the airflow from the bumper cover opening to the cooler.


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LOL

I inadvertently used the same oil cooler (except mine's the 619 series, not the 625)! It's a flippin' phenomenal unit! Haven't had a problem at all with it and it's been on there for 45,000 miles. I really like where the EVO IX OF housing put the filter vs. where it is on my EVO III. The EVO IX wasn't around yet when I bought mine. :(

That's an awesome fit on the 2gb. Much better than it did on mine. On a 2ga I wasn't able to mount mine vertically because it would have been completely obscured by the bumper and things are a little tighter in the 2ga. Relocating the horn let me put it in a good spot relative to the air vent. There's about 1/2 quart that doesn't get changed when I change my oil. But it's the only way I managed to make it fit. If I ever grenade a turbo or find shavings in my oil then I'll remove it and clean it out or replace it, but it hasn't been a problem from a service standpoint so far. I change my oil often enough. Bottom-to-top flow is ideal, and 180° and 135° -8AN fittings are expensive so mount it vertically whenever you can.

Setrab is the oil cooler used on the Ferrari F40, F50, basically all of their roadrace and enduro cars. Mine came from the used NASCAR market purchased off of ebay from a Hendrick between-race car-reconfig. Picked it up for $60 but had to spend a little more for the correct-sized AN fittings direct from Setrab. Well worth it. Great cooler. Ridiculously expensive new. If you go the ebay route, it helps to wait for the one to pop up with the fitting sizes you need.

This is an awesome thread and you're doing a great favor (to those who are paying attention) including what it took to get where you are.:thumb:
 

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On a 2ga I wasn't able to mount mine vertically because it would have been completely obscured by the bumper and things are a little tighter in the 2ga. Relocating the horn let me put it in a good spot relative to the air vent.

This is not what I want to be hearing :( I have the same cooler that we need to install on my 2ga. I told Eric the other day that I need to switch to a 2gb front bumper to accommodate this monster, but he says we can make it work. This doesn't give me much hope to be able to mount it as we did on his car.
 
This is not what I want to be hearing :( I have the same cooler that we need to install on my 2ga. I told Eric the other day that I need to switch to a 2gb front bumper to accommodate this monster, but he says we can make it work. This doesn't give me much hope to be able to mount it as we did on his car.

Meh... Turbosax proved it can be done. Mine arrived without 2 of the brackets which had been lopped off to fit whatever car it used to be on. That may have limited my install options.

Either way, even if the airflow is more obstructed by the shape of the 2ga bumper, if you have those brackets you should be able to find a secure way to mount it and it should work fine. Even if it's out of the airflow, a heat soaked bumper compartment is going to be more efficient at cooling your engine than 230° coolant in a sandwich-style cooler.

I opted for the horizontal arrangement to maximize airflow with a 2ga bumper, and having a 1/2 quart of oil stuck in the oil cooler during oil change time really doesn't bring me any grief. I would rather have the fittings on the top than on the bottom with this arrangement (though the Ferraris that use this cooler have the fittings mounted on the bottom). I just didn't want to risk knocking one off if I encountered a front-end clearance issue with something solid and stationary.
 
All I have to say about this whole thread is DAM. This makes me want to tear my whole car apart and do everything in this thread. That is the best looking, stock appearing DSM I have seen.
 
As others have said. This thread has left me speechless. Not exactly sure how I've missed this thread, but awesome work. Loved every thread page.
 
Correct, no heat or a/c. The car really doesn't get driven much, but when I do not having heat or a/c doesn't really bother me.
 
My AC has been gone for ages it's just removing the heat I'm torn about since I DD the car in the spring/fall. I'm trying to find a non AC heater inlet but having no luck so far.

I'll try it over the summer/fall and see what it's like.
 
Wow, amazing job! Ive spent about 5 hours in the last 3 days reading this and it is insane! I would like to take a stab at this in my next DSM, but the one I have now has enough problems from the previous owner to keep me occupied for quite a while :)
 
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