If the crank has to be cut more than .01, then you should get another. Anything past .01 removes the treated metal...and its not as strong.

Bring the block to a machine shop and have them do the following:
Boil the block
Check the deck
Check line bore
Check the head for warpage
Re-Hone the cylinders. You want some cross hatching for that rebuild!
Install new freeze plugs

Plastigauge everything!!!!!!!!!!!

NEW RINGS!!!! Check your ring gaps. Don't just expect them to be correct from the factory! When doing this, keep in mind the amount of boost you wanna run, because you should gap your rings accordingly.

Remove the balance shafts!
I'm a big ARP believer, If it were me I'd go with ARP rod and main bolts.
But defiantly use ARP headbolts.

I like cometic gaskets. Don't use Topline...they are cheap. And you get what you pay for.
Cometic head gaskets are awesome, but you have to have GOOD mating surfaces.

Use OEM oil pump, t-belt, pulleys, and tensioner.
Be sure to prime oil pump before installing t-belt.

My intentions with this motor is to leave in COMPLETELY stock. I dont want to do anything to the engine, turbo system of driveline yet. Not with a 7 bolt yah know?

So a good plan to me was to pull the motor, disassemble, and like you said get the blocked hot tanked and honed, then have the block and head resurfaced. I wasnt going to do freeze plugs tho. Also have the crank scraped and polished, and have the rotating assembly checked out. If the rods did turn out to be stretched than i was going to just replace all the rods and pistons with NPR or ITM pistons on new 2g rods. they come with rings also, so i figured i was killing a couple birds with one stone.

Now you said plasti gauge everything? what do you mean by that? sorry for the newbie ness! haha.

And with the balance shaft removal, would this be necessary? it seems like it would be kinda sketchy to do? but then again i have never done that.

THis motor isnt going to see anymore power than stock. I need a car, and want this motor to last a while while i build a 6 bolt. So i wasnt going to to a cheap rebuild, i want to do it right, but just budget. yah know?

So i guess im asking if i need new freeze plugs, better than regular gaskets, arp bolts, stuff like that. and some insight on the balance shaft removal.

thanks for your help!

One more thing!

I know im going to need a new oil pump, mines more than likely filled with metal shavings, but do you think i need the pulleys and t-belt? tensioner?

Honestly 7 bolts can be just as powerful as a 6 bolt.

If the bottom end is knocking it is 1 of 2 possible problems.
1. Rod Knock
2. Rear balance shaft (the bearing fails and the shaft slaps the block, and makes a knocking noise!!)

So to keep from that balance shaft bearing failing, you eliminate it. Plus it free's up some power!
If its a rod knock, then you have a streached rod bolt. I recommended ARP, because the possibility of them stretching is less likely than stock rod bolts.

You have experience rebuilding motors, but you dont know what plastigauge is??
Read up on it here: Plastigauge - Plastic Precision Clearance Gauges
You can get Plastigauge at your local parts store. Most likely they have it behind the counter somewhere. You gotta know what gauge you want, so I'd recommend searching the forums.

Unless you know about how many miles are on the T-Belt and Tensioner, YES YES YES YES replace it!!!!! You dont necessarly have to get the t-belt pullys, but if you did go with OEM.

You dont want to put a few hundred miles on the motor and the t-belt break or tensioner fail and it jump timing.

THANK YOU! i appreciate all your help!

And yah i meant by experience i have built and designed lots of v8s and i just recently went import. this is my first 4 cylinder.

so the pistons and rod combo i was planning on buying comes with arp bolts. and i am defiantly gonna go with arp head bolts.

You make a very valid point with the t-belt and tensioner, so i will replace those.

I havent been able to find any guides on the removal of the balance shafts. but ill keep looking.

You said that a 7 bolt can be built, but i have read alot on how they crankwalk. Is there a way to help reduce the probability of this?

So, ill have it pulled and dissembled this weekend. and ill have more details on whats going on.

Thanks again!

While the block is at the machine shop, tell them you want the oil ports blocked with the bearings on the back balance shaft.

Next you will need to buy this stubby shaft:
Balance Shaft Elimination Kit (DSM/Evo) - Modern Automotive Performance
(bearings not included)

Crankwalk is caused by excessive thrust bearing play.
Read this:
1000 AAQ - Terms

Thank you!

So i think i got a pretty good idea on my plan. Thanks again!

Ill let you know how everything turns out and post some pics!

Crankwalk is highly overrated man. Too many DSMers spin a rod bearing and blame it on crankwalk. Don't fall into the hype. As long as all of your clearances check out you have nothing to worry about.

Yah, thats what i was beginning to think. im still trying to figure out what and how to use these plasticgauges. and i dont know if i want to do a balance shaft removal. i know its doable, i just dont know how hard it is, and im almost just contemplating just replacing the balance shaft bearings.

Some insight and wisdom on those topics would be very very helpful.

thanks again!

This web page explains how to use plastigage
Genuine Plastigauge - How It Works

The BSE kit is simple. Order the kit I posted above either with or without the bearings. When you bring the block to the machine shop tell them your doing a balance shaft elimination, and they will most likely know what to do. IF NOT, tell them to block the oil ports on the rear balance shaft with the bearings.

When you pull the oil pump a long shaft will come out with it, that is the balance shaft.
Just remove the front balance shaft from the block, you dont have to do anything special there.

The rear balance shaft holds the oil pump gears aligned. Take the pulley off, and next to it there is a cap that is screwed on. Use a hammer and screw driver and remove the cap. Put the balance shaft in a vice or something, and use an impact and loosen that bolt. The balance shaft will now fall out the back. All you gota do is put that stubby shaft in its place, and put it all back together. That stubby shaft has to be there to align all the gears in the pump. If you dont put it back, it will be a disaster!

Here is a writeup on how to do it:
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

The only thing I dont recommend doing that they did is pull the pump apart. Just pull the cap off like I mentioned above.

For a little extra money, you could have the machine shop assemble the rotating assembly. They should do everything I've mention in previous post.

Why not use evo8 piston/rods and just build the 7bolt?

He's worried about crank walk...........I think you should build the 7 bolt.

Thanks you guys!

Yah, the balance shaft eliminate kit seems relitively simple now!
And those plastigauges are great, i cant believe i had never heard of them!

So, im thinking im gonna go ahead and get the works done on block and head at the machine shop. and I am also gonna order these rods and pistons for now. DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

i know these arent the greatest pistons ever, and i wont put power to thise. its just i need a car cause this is my dd.

But i will be building this 7 bolt, thanks for all the advice! cleared up so many questions and worries i had.

now there is one more thing, my oil had metal shavings in it, should i change out the oil pump becuase of this? i will be doing the BSE and getting a new t-belt and tesioner. im just not sure if the oil pump will need to be replaced also.

Yes might as well replace that as well rather than later while its apart now.

thats what i figured, so i will be doing that to!

in the middle of pulling it now, its a bit harder than i thought it would be! haha, but im getting into it!

pics up soon of the damage!

If you are that worried about crankwalk, either 6 bolt swap it or find a late 7 bolt shortblock with the split thrust bearing design. Then you still use the crank angle sensor too!

Balance Shaft eliminator is a must! I had a 1g that seized up because of bad balance shafts...granted it was my fault for driving it that way, but i had to get it home. I just built a 7 bolt, lots of fun to do. Gotta love the 4g63

So, I got everything pulled off the motor! I was going to just pull the motor, but it almost seems like it would be easier to pull it with the transmission also?

I work in an hour so i had to stop.

So, which way should i yank the motor out? like i said its ready to be pulled except the transfer case and all that. But should the motor come out with the transmission? also, i got a chiltons book, but its very vague on how to pull the transfer case off. i got the three bolts off that connect it to the tranny, but how do i pull the driveline out? and also does the transfer case actually come off the tranny? im very confused and really could use some help!

Thanks!

just to be on the safe side, wait tell you get a long block and rebuild that.

You gotta find 2 more bolts on the T-case. One's way the hell up it's butthole. Then you slide it off the splined shaft and dowel pins, then it falls down and crushes your hand. You may wanna whack it with a block of wood and hammer after all 5 bolts come out. Either drain it first, or expect all the oil to come out when you slide it off the driveshaft. I had to pull the engine out of a 1G AWD recently. I found it easiest just to drop the trans. Then the engine came right out without a fuss. Or you can remove the battery tray and take them both out together. Either way, the axles have to come out of the trans, which is the annoying part to me. That's why I just dropped the trans instead of also pulling the battery tray.

Awesome! well i have alot of the trans bolts out, i think all of them actually, so how would i go about dropping the trans? sorry for the noobness! haha my chiltons book i got sucks, its so vague...

Im just confused on how im supposed to get the flywheel and clutch off the crank before it gets dropped. if there is a guide that i cant find on here on how to do this that would awesome.

i really appreciate all your guys help on this, i would be screwed without haha

come to think of it i would defiantly rather keep the tranny in the car and just pull the engine. wouldnt that be easier? is there a guide to do it this way? wouldnt i still have to pull of the transfer case?

Thanks again for the help, im just supa confused haha

This is helping me a lot in doing my build thanks everyone. I have a 99 gst with a spun rod bearing. I have a journal on it and am in the middle of engine and trans removal. Today is day2 for me. I was also wondering about doing a 6 bolt swap or just keep the 7 bolt. I'm trying to keep my build under $1000. Can anyone give me any ideas? Please

^^ 7 Bolts can make just as much power as a 6 bolt if built correctly. I think crank walk is over rated, my friend has a 7bolt making 400whp with a few bolts ons and it runs perfectly. Just add up parts for either build and see what the price difference is.