kchaazz said:

A good shop would KNOW to replace both belts, the tensioner, tensioner pulley, and also the water pump while theyre in there. The oil seals I mentioned are just a precaution but most leak at this point given their age, so the need for replacement would have been obvious. Are you able to contact the previous owner and perhaps look at an itemized receipt for the services performed on the car? If the timing belt snapped before, id make sure they fixed whetever bent valves there might have been and gone over the head to make sure it was ok before putting it back on the car. Bottom line is, provided the belts were installed correctly and assuming the proper components were replaced, if the balance shaft belt is dead, youre going to need to install a balance shaft elimination kit as the bearings for that shaft are toast. Of course, this is a big IF, since you havent checked to see if the belt is messed up yet.

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Yes I am able to contact the previous owner and I know it's a big if since I haven't checked the belt yet. A family friend who is a mechanic is coming to look at it tomorrow and I will ask him if he can check the belt for me. I have the CASoff right now and today I am going to take off the throttle body and take off the tsp and check it to see if they are both good

Good idea. One thing to mention is if this mechanic isnt familiar with 4G63 timing components, you should get a manual or go to VFAQ.COM for instructions in the event the timing belt needs to be messed with; there's also a how to on banance shaft elimination, if I havent mentioned it yet.

One other thing I dont think has been mentioned yet. Did you happen to replace the throttlebody gasket between the TB and intake manifold when this problem started? A large vacuum leak between the intake manifold and head, or throttlebody and elbow or TB and intake mani will also cause these cars to fire up idling high and just immediately shut off, and a lot of the parts stores have the TB gaskets for 90 cars improperly listed; they sell you one for the 91-94 cars, which is a VERY different gasket in comparison, as the 90's are the bastards out of the 1G's, since they changed so many parts after 90, throttlebody being one of them.

kchaazz said:

Good idea. One thing to mention is if this mechanic isnt familiar with 4G63 timing components, you should get a manual or go to VFAQ.COM for instructions in the event the timing belt needs to be messed with; there's also a how to on banance shaft elimination, if I havent mentioned it yet.

One other thing I dont think has been mentioned yet. Did you happen to replace the throttlebody gasket between the TB and intake manifold when this problem started? A large vacuum leak between the intake manifold and head, or throttlebody and elbow or TB and intake mani will also cause these cars to fire up idling high and just immediately shut off, and a lot of the parts stores have the TB gaskets for 90 cars improperly listed; they sell you one for the 91-94 cars, which is a VERY different gasket in comparison, as the 90's are the bastards out of the 1G's, since they changed so many parts after 90, throttlebody being one of them.

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Nope I hadn't changed anything when it started happening. Like I said in the first post I came home, shut off the car and disconnected the battery cable, unplugged the MAF and plugged it back in to make sure it was connected properly, and then when I went to start it up again this started happening

So i think I have determined the problem. When I pulled off my CAS and tested it I couldn't get any readings on the voltmeter. I hooked up an analog volt meter and turned it by hand and the needle on the volt meter did not move at all. I have been checking the junkyards but they all seem to be gone already. Hopefully I will be able to find one soon because the auto parts shop wants $350 that I don't have I also found out that once I move the CAS I need to redo the timing on the car. So I am going to purchase a timing light and attempt to set the timing myself one I buy a new CAS. Would a faulty CAS cause something like this? Oh I also pulled off the throttle body and cleaned it and adjusted the TPS so it was dead on.

Can someone link me on how to test the CAS? I think I am doing it right but I just want to be sure and my haynes manual isn't here yet so I can't look in there. Also does anyone have a working CAS they would sell?

The largest load input for fuel that the pcm sees is mass air flow. The car should flow 6-9 grams per second on initial startup then work itself down to about 3-4.

TPS is another major load input it should read .45-.65 volts with throttle closed.

Coolant temp is a less important load input, I would imagine the car would run with a bad one.

intake air temp also shouldnt prevent running, built into maf sensor.

o2 sensors are only used in closed loop operation, the pcm doesn't use it at all for the first 30 seconds to 2 minutes depending on how long it takes to heat up.

I would disconect the battery for 5 minutes to reset keep alive memory and see what it does. Also would like to know what injector pulse width is during cranking.

pm me if you would like more help.

iguanahotsauce said:

Can someone link me on how to test the CAS? I think I am doing it right but I just want to be sure and my haynes manual isn't here yet so I can't look in there. Also does anyone have a working CAS they would sell?

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The only way to properly test a cam sensor is with an osiliscope, which is going to cost you 1200+ dollars. If the car has spark or the injectors are being drivin it is working.

So there was a break in the rain today and I went out to work on my car some more. First I attempted to do a boos leak test. After realizing a few things that I had unplugged I thought I had finally plugged all the hoses back in, so I tried to pressurize the system and I noticed a large air leak coming from the oil dipstick and when I removed it all of the pressure was released. What I am wondering is is it normal for there to be pressure in the oil pan? I was having a problem before of when I boost my dipstick would come out and spray some oil on the engine and I thought it was just a bad seal on the dipstick but now I'm not so sure. It seems like there gets to be quite a bit of pressure in there and I don't think that's a good thing. I have already replaced the PCV with a new one so I don't think that is the problem. Also when I put the air can back in and re assembled the car it still does the same thing except now instead of dieing immediately it bogs down from 2500rpm slowly and then dies. I took out the ECU to check out the capacitors and it looks fine. No leaky capacitors at all. But I think the computer my be on it's way out because I get no CEL anymore and when i try to check for codes on pins 1 and 12 I get nothing on my analog volt meter. Is there a way to test the ECU to see if it is going bad?

was this the ECU, balance shaft belt, or loose lines?