Did you just replace the stock nb with the wideband?

If so the nb simulator on most wb's are junk or at least dont do a very good job. I'd suggest welding in a seperate o2 bung for the wb and putting the stock nb back in.
At the same time the wb if wired up to the ecu is mearly for datalogging reasons not for the ecu to read from.
I'm sure someone will confirm this information but, I left my stock nb in place welded in a new bung for the wb. Then wired the wb in and tapped the wb datalogging line to the logger port or eco harness. Kinda fuzzy on that detail but, when I connect my palm datalogger up I receive a signal for the wb.

yea i just replaced it with wb..ive heard the lc1 has the best nb sim so thought it would work. i just need to make sure i wired up everything right cause im getting those codes

If you want to do it the way you've done, you need to physically cut the front 02 wire to the ECU and wire in the yellow wire from the LC1 to the ECU side of the wire.

Right now, the ecu is trying to pull information from both the LC-1 and the stock 02 sensor because you just tapped it.

alright thanks ill give that a try

Yeah your ecu isn't seeing any o2 signal. Make the signal get to the ecu and your golden! Just cut the old wire for front 02 and direct wire the nb sim wire into the ecu.

yea i just did that..everything is working fine now..thanks

gst_clipse said:

yea i just did that..everything is working fine now..thanks

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i'm having the same problem. so you cut the wire 76 to connect it to your wideband? because I just spliced it and connect the wire from wideband and throws me the cel.

If you're connecting it to pin 76, it has to be the only thing going in. I see you don't have ECMlink, so the yellow wire would be the one going into that pin.

snowborder714 said:

If you're connecting it to pin 76, it has to be the only thing going in. I see you don't have ECMlink, so the yellow wire would be the one going into that pin.

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If I'm reading this correctly, I have to cut the wire 76 front o2 sensor and connect the yellow wire to ecu.

Yes. Since you have the LC-1 in the front spot, you need to simulate the front o2 sensor. The yellow wire does exactly this (0-1v narrowband sim), so you want to feed that to where the ECU is looking for the factory narrowband signal.

Then you'll feed the brown (0-5v wideband signal) into the gauge so you can see what's going on.

Once you get a reason to log this value, things will change, but you can tackle that once that time comes.

snowborder714 said:

Yes. Since you have the LC-1 in the front spot, you need to simulate the front o2 sensor. The yellow wire does exactly this (0-1v narrowband sim), so you want to feed that to where the ECU is looking for the factory narrowband signal.

Then you'll feed the brown (0-5v wideband signal) into the gauge so you can see what's going on.

Once you get a reason to log this value, things will change, but you can tackle that once that time comes.

Click to expand...

I kind of get it and at the same time I'm still confused. So far for my understanding I'll hook up the yellow wire to ecu pin w/c is pin 76 right? And I'll will be running tactrix soon. So the brown wire connects to? I have mtx-l innovate and it came with yellow and brown, you said brown connects to the gauge, It's already connected it just need to connect into something right? Would that be where the yellow wire connected at which is pin 76? Sorry I'm so newbie.

newtodsm97gst said:

I have mtx-l innovate

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This changes things now, seeing as the thread title is for the LC-1.


Do this (if you want an explanation later, I can):

Brown wire to pin 76

snowborder714 said:

This changes things now, seeing as the thread title is for the LC-1.


Do this (if you want an explanation later, I can):

Brown wire to pin 76

Click to expand...

Yes can you explain it. And thanks a lot.

I based my initial info off of the thread title (LC-1) and the fact that you didn't mention you had the MTX-L.

The MTX-L has the yellow output set as the 0-5v wideband output and the brown as the 0-1v narrowband output (use for narrowband sim) from the factory. Keep in mind that both of these outputs can be reprogrammed to whatever you choose. Since your factory narrowband is now gone, the ECU still needs a 0-1v narrowband signal. That is why you wire the brown wire from the MTX-L to pin 76 of the ECU. The gauge of the MTX-L is built in, so you don't need to run any wires to it to make it work, unlike the LC-1.

Hopefully this helps and you're still not confused

snowborder714 said:

I based my initial info off of the thread title (LC-1) and the fact that you didn't mention you had the MTX-L.

The MTX-L has the yellow output set as the 0-5v wideband output and the brown as the 0-1v narrowband output (use for narrowband sim) from the factory. Keep in mind that both of these outputs can be reprogrammed to whatever you choose. Since your factory narrowband is now gone, the ECU still needs a 0-1v narrowband signal. That is why you wire the brown wire from the MTX-L to pin 76 of the ECU. The gauge of the MTX-L is built in, so you don't need to run any wires to it to make it work, unlike the LC-1.

Hopefully this helps and you're still not confused

Click to expand...

Got it, but do I need to cut the wire from ecu pin 76 and just ran the brown wire or I can just splice it, because that's what I did and throws me cell 0135.

Cut it.

Thanks

P0135 refers to the bank 1 sensor 1 HEATER CIRCUIT. NOT switching or o2 sensor activity. All obdII vehicles with heated o2 sensors have 2 wires of the same color (white,gray,black). These pairs of like-colored wires are the sensor HEATER CIRCUIT & are monitored for current/draw. P0135 is bank 1 sensor 1 o2 sensor heater circuit fault & p0136 is bank 1 sensor 2 o2 heater circuit malfunction (post-cat sensor).So, if you replace either of the sensors & go with wideband w/narrow band simulation, you WILL need to keep the old o2 sensor/heater wired into the system to satisfy/fool the ecu into thinking that it`s still there to stop throwing the heater circuit codes. I would recommend just cutting the 2 wires not used anymore (the sensor signal & sensor ground) & leaving the 2 like-colored wires (white,I think in our cars) hooked up to the connector & safely securing the sensor out of harms way somewhere.