So just a quick and hopefully simple question.

I have V3 in the Talon along with an LC-1 Wideband setup that's both simulating my front 02 as well as being used for it's basic Wideband function through Link. Now, I've noticed that the Wideband readings are accurate with each moment that the ECU adds or pulls fuel when the 02 switches, but it's a bit difficult to get a reading on AFRs like this. I'll be the first to admit that I don't know too much about how the integration of the wideband through Link works, but I was also under the impression that there was Software for the LC-1.

Now, The kicker here is - I don't have a wideband gauge. The wideband is wired directly to the ECU save for the two Analog ports which are still bundled up. Is there software that I can use while connected to link? Do I need to track down a new cable? Do I NEED to purchase a different gauge? What are my options here. Educate me.

Thanks.

The LC-1 should have come with software for it. The LC1 has a serial DB-9 connector that I purchased a DB9 -> USB if I want to use just the software. That's pulling data from the serial port, vs the way ecmlink logs (You hardwired it to one of the 02 inputs or whichever other sensor you chose in ecmlink.) Ecmlink has the ability to log the LC-1 wideband with all your other logging values, so that you can physically go back into the log and look at your wideband AFR's.

Logworks directly from innovate's website that will support your LC-1
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/downloads/LogWorks3Setup.exe

And..

The manual for it.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LogWorks3_Manual.pdf

Are you just looking for an easier way to read the AFR value? I'm not sure I understand the question exactly.

Well...I'd say easier, but clear this up for me.

How accurate are the readings via Link?

They are very accurate for the LC-1.

I just installed an LC-1/DB gauge in a friend's car last weekend and when comparing the link reading to the gauge, it was no more than a few tenths difference.


If you can't read the LC-1 reading easily, you can enlarge the value below the graph to make it easier to see.

snowborder714 said:

They are very accurate for the LC-1.

I just installed an LC-1/DB gauge in a friend's car last weekend and when comparing the link reading to the gauge, it was no more than a few tenths difference.


If you can't read the LC-1 reading easily, you can enlarge the value below the graph to make it easier to see.

Click to expand...

Well, I don't have much experience with Widebands, as you know, but the 02 has the square arcs. This is my narrowband. The wideband jumps SO much around a single AFR. I mean, it'll stick within say... I'm running 12.1, I'll jump 11.5-12.4 and everytime the 02 cycles and the ECU adds fuel or takes fuel, the wideband jumps to that immediate position. I was just under the impression that it should slowly incline and decline to show something like.. an average? Perhaps not.

At any rate, was just looking for feedback as I've started getting pulls done (after fixing bad exhaust leaks) and at first I was running amazingly rich.. now I have it in the mid 9's. Just a few more adjustments to get things right and I wanted to be 100% sure that the readings I am getting are accurate.

Post up a log and we'll take a look at it.

Well, not going to matter much now. Wideband is screwed up again and I have to turn the car off and start it 5 times before it begins switching the 02.

Let me know if you want to hop on AIM and discuss the situation.

I'll be off tomorrow, so I'll deal with it then. Turns out that it works fine if I start the car and let it warm up, kill the car, and then restart it. Dunno why. Works perfect after everything reaches OT.

Complete Recalibration...gave me issues for a bit... I think it turned out to be a bad power wire. Now my logs look funky...

So, to go through a couple of checks.

• You have the brown wire going to pin 76 - cut and soldered in.
• You have both the blue and white wires grounded using the same lug.
• You have the terminator plug in the appropriate stereo input.
• You have done a free air calibration by actually removing the sensor from the o2 housing and using the calibration button and LED (fed by the black wire).

All of those correct? If so, what does the wideband read when you just turn the key to ON and not start it?

Actually.. I just educated myself on what the cables where and how to connect to the Wideband. This is what I've been looking for. I currently have the terminator plug on the IN cable and the OUT cable is plugged into the serial port on my PC. The Software hasn't been setup correctly and was in Lamda. I'm on AIM if you'd like to slap my hand a bit.

I'll hop on in a bit. I'm just leaving for work and will probably stop for dinner on the way home, or at least get something to go.

Haha. Sure thing. I'm going to toy with this and see what I can do.