Apperarently people aren't seeing my post. NAPA belt's with the line code NBH are made by Gates. Google it.

Apperarently people aren't seeing my post. NAPA belt's with the line code NBH are made by Gates. Google it.

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Just because its made by gates doesnt mean they are as good as belts from gates directly.

Sorry, I was not meaning to start an arguement. I get tired of people putting part's places down. True, the NAPA belt's are made by Gate's but to NAPA's spec's. I also would like to state that a NAPA timing belt is not exactly ment for high power application's. That's the way it is with a lot of part's. Get a part that fit's the need's of your car. If you need a belt for a high powered car, get one. Don't be cheap and go to a parts store or your car will suffer for it.

i would go with greddy

I have never been impressed with the conti belts IME with other cars (VW's), Gates on the other hand......

Gates or Mitsu hands down.

I have never been impressed with the conti belts IME with other cars (VW's), Gates on the other hand......

Gates or Mitsu hands down.

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contitech is the manufacturer of oem mitsu belts as was discussed in post 3 of this thread.

I am considering buying these tools Jay Racing Timing Belt Tools Kit [TBTS] - $50.00 : Jay Racing, and possibly this tool MITSUBISHI CRANK TIMING TOOL DSM 4G63 6BOLT ECLIPSE EVO - eBay (item 130484068428 end time Mar-09-11 12:16:49 PST) but I'm really not sure if I need it or not.

Has anyone tried them out?

oem mitsu belt! call it done...

^^ +1.. oem belt all day

dsmcoder said:

I am considering buying these tools Jay Racing Timing Belt Tools Kit [TBTS] - $50.00 : Jay Racing, and possibly this tool MITSUBISHI CRANK TIMING TOOL DSM 4G63 6BOLT ECLIPSE EVO - eBay (item 130484068428 end time Mar-09-11 12:16:49 PST) but I'm really not sure if I need it or not.

Has anyone tried them out?

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Buy it. They're worth the price the first time you use them IMO.

You'll thank me when your knuckes aren't bleeding and you haven't been throwing wrenches for 2 hours.

Pci belt kits are pci pulleys and gates belts. They actually are the same belts. They literally say gates one them. They are super cheap and stronger than OEM.

dsmcoder said:

I am considering buying these tools Jay Racing Timing Belt Tools Kit [TBTS] - $50.00 : Jay Racing, and possibly this tool MITSUBISHI CRANK TIMING TOOL DSM 4G63 6BOLT ECLIPSE EVO - eBay (item 130484068428 end time Mar-09-11 12:16:49 PST) but I'm really not sure if I need it or not.

Has anyone tried them out?

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I used it for my Headgasket job and my buddy borrowed it for his cams and lifters,

Buy it and don't look back, it'll save you time with ANY project that requires you to remove the timing belt (i.e. Camshaft replacement, headgasket, valves, valve springs, valve lifters, Cam gears, cam shaft seals). Damn near everything you can think of in the head, you will need that tool set, also =having that cam gear holder helps really nicely, you won't have to rely on zipties or bully clips to keep your belt and cams are in time when you tighten the belt back on.

Heres a little food for thought, gentlemen:

When was the last time you snapped or destroyed a brand new timing belt shortly after installation, regardless of brand? I'm willing to bet maybe 1 in 100 will destroy a perfectly good belt, whether it was an Autozone "Gatorback" belt, or an OEM. I'm going go on to say those few that have had their belts destroyed, out of 10 of them I'll bet only one or two maybe are from manufacturing defects in the belt.

I have an HKS belt on my 1g. I've used OEM belts, Autozone belts, Gates belts, Contitech belts, ect, and done many a timing belt on many different vehicles. Chances are, if you shredded ANY belt, you may have screwed up your intstall. Failure to replace critical components such as timing belt hydraulic tensioner, idler and tensioner pullies, not to mention improperly setting belt tension and or having trash/FOD getting into the area will lead to the belt's failure in short order.

People are quick to blame a part, but won't be quick to realize maybe it was installed incorrectly.

Not to mention, when was the last time you did a timing belt on your DSM, and kept the belt on without the engine suffering from some kind of other mechanical failure before the 60-80k is put on that belt? I'm willing to bet very few people have actually put alot of miles on some of these belts they claim are trash.

At the end of the day, a belt is a belt is a belt. You cannot go wrong with OEM components, and I'd reccomend them all day long, but the component is only as good as how it was installed. Take care to install correctly and even the auto parts stores brand belts will give you thousands of miles of reliable service.

I have a gates. Can't beat it for the price. I got it on either map, stm, or extremepsi.

Okay, so should I get the ebay tool too or do I just need the Jay Racing kit?

The tool with the two notches makes it easy to set tension on the pulley. The JayRacing tool makes it easy to line up the marks on the cam gears. I plan on investing in one of these soon, but some zip ties to hold the belt on the gears works fine.

I have a gates belt. Survived a broken oil pump, of definatley buy another....

dsmcoder said:

Okay, so should I get the ebay tool too or do I just need the Jay Racing kit?

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Just the 3 tools in the Jay kit and you're set with special tools for timing.

I have been running a Dayco belt from Advance auto for about 2 years without one problem on my tsi. I actually found a cheaper timing belt and its made by Continental, im guessing the same company as the tires. The belt costs 16 dollars and some change with my discount at Advance and it looks like its made better then a Dayco. We threw one on my friends fresh 7bolt rebuild and have not had one problem with it. We both make over 300hp so its not like its on a stock car. Now i wouldnt run a cheap belt on a race engine but it seems to suit us fine. I cant see myself letting a timing belt stay on a car longer then 2 years just knowing the nature of these cars. I have drove my car to TN Ohio and a few beaches and never had one issue with our belts.

I just used some large bulldog paper clips to hold my belt on the sprockets and made my own 8mm tensioner tool out of a length of 8mm rod with two 13mm nuts on the end wrenched together so one can use a socket on the end.

As for the eccentric tool, I just used a socket and an allen wrench so the wrench can turn around the socket and the socket is already on the handle to do a quick snug.

As for doing the crank sprocket, I have the inner part of a harmonic balance pulley that I put a chain wrench around and bolt that inner pulley to the sprocket and hang on the chain wrench so I can torque that main nut down.

Fun things that you can do with what you got lying around to make things work.

-DSM

I have a question about the timing belt vfaq, should I do this step if I am going to replace my tensioner?

"Note: If the belt is currently correctly installed, then use white paint or Whiteout to mark the belt and sprockets. To be consistent, make the marks on the sprockets on the teeth, therefore all the marks on the belt will be between the teeth. Mark the cam sprockets, oil pump sprocket and the crank sprocket. Before installing the new belt, place the old and new belts together, aligning the teeth, and transfer the marks to the new belt. When installing the new belt on the sprockets, match up the marks on the belt with the marks on the sprockets. If you install the belt this way and are reusing the old tensioner, it should allow you to get the belt within spec without loosening the tensioner pulley, saving a lot of time."

I am trying to figure out what year my engine is because the last owner replaced it, the vin is not recognizable, but the oil pan looks like the one on the top here How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart Is there anyway way of determining what year my engine is without the vin?

dsmcoder said:

Is there anyway way of determining what year my engine is without the vin?

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If you look at the oil pump side of the oil pan, 6 bolt pans have a "hump". 7 bolt pans are flatter on this portion of the pan.

I have the ugly purple HKS belt. Very pleased with it.

Get the Gates kevlar reinforced timing belt for peace of mind.

OEM for me I can get it through work for under 50 cant beat that in my book. Ive used gates and thats a decent belt they make chryslers oem belts. I used a contitech off ebay and it shredded take it from me dont buy a belt off ebay unless it from a reputable vendor as Im sure the belt I had was not genuine.