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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
boost leakers, vacuum leaks, make sure everything is snug tight with no leaks. i don't know about the noise but if you're boosting and your boost gauge bounces up and down you have a leak.
 
rust and dirt in the clutch fork & fork ball, lack of lubrication could also cause chirping noises.

Got this from another forum.

CLUTCH NOISE PROBLEMS
Squeals and growls usually are caused by worn or seized bearings. Chirping noises are most often caused by vibration somewhere in the clutch actuator mechanism.

Causes of internal clutch noise include:

* Worn or defective input shaft bearing;
* Defective or misaligned release bearing;
* Worn, misaligned or improperly lubricated pilot bearing/bushing;
* Worn, bent or improperly lubricated release fork;
* Worn input shaft;
* Improper disc installation;
* Misalignment;
* Damaged bearing retainer;
* Loose flywheel bolts; or
* Damaged disc splines, worn stop pins or a broken damper.

Possible external causes of clutch noise include:

* Incorrect release system adjustment;
* Worn driveshaft or halfshaft components;
* Worn engine or transmission mounts;
* Broken cable self-adjuster; or

* Worn or improperly lubricated clutch pedal components.

To find out what is causing the noise, set the parking brake, place the vehicle in neutral and start the engine.

If you hear growling or grinding noises when the clutch is engaged, the cause is the transmission input shaft bearing.

A squealing sound that occurs when the clutch pedal is depressed and held is usually caused by a bad pilot bearing or bushing.

A chirping noise that intensifies when the pedal is slowly depressed would indicate a bad release bearing.

If you hear chirping while idling in neutral and the noise goes away when the pedal is slowly depressed, the fork/pivot ball contact point is making the noise.


Car Chirping Noise,Noise When Cold,Mitsubishi repair questions
 
Just answered my issue, thanks
rust and dirt in the clutch fork & fork ball, lack of lubrication could also cause chirping noises.

Got this from another forum.

CLUTCH NOISE PROBLEMS
Squeals and growls usually are caused by worn or seized bearings. Chirping noises are most often caused by vibration somewhere in the clutch actuator mechanism.

Causes of internal clutch noise include:

* Worn or defective input shaft bearing;
* Defective or misaligned release bearing;
* Worn, misaligned or improperly lubricated pilot bearing/bushing;
* Worn, bent or improperly lubricated release fork;
* Worn input shaft;
* Improper disc installation;
* Misalignment;
* Damaged bearing retainer;
* Loose flywheel bolts; or
* Damaged disc splines, worn stop pins or a broken damper.

Possible external causes of clutch noise include:

* Incorrect release system adjustment;
* Worn driveshaft or halfshaft components;
* Worn engine or transmission mounts;
* Broken cable self-adjuster; or

* Worn or improperly lubricated clutch pedal components.

To find out what is causing the noise, set the parking brake, place the vehicle in neutral and start the engine.

If you hear growling or grinding noises when the clutch is engaged, the cause is the transmission input shaft bearing.

A squealing sound that occurs when the clutch pedal is depressed and held is usually caused by a bad pilot bearing or bushing.

A chirping noise that intensifies when the pedal is slowly depressed would indicate a bad release bearing.

If you hear chirping while idling in neutral and the noise goes away when the pedal is slowly depressed, the fork/pivot ball contact point is making the noise.


Car Chirping Noise,Noise When Cold,Mitsubishi repair questions
 
I have a 98 GSX. When I hit full boost, there is this weird noise that sounds like a baby elephant blowing through it's trunk. The really weird thing, it sounds like it's coming from the driver side skirt or wheel well or something. I checked for boost leaks and not only did I find none, there was no weird noise. Any ideas?
 
From what you are describing, It sounds like air squeezing its way out a coupler, how much boost are you running? Tighten down all your clamps and see if it still does it.
 
i just help my friend fix his evo that had that same sound and everything and the problem was the LICP was loose ...the pipe was loose where it was connected to the turbo
 
I'm boosting about 15 pounds. I used a compressor at school that I'm assuming is about 50 psi but I didn't keep it on there for very long. I feared a blown turbo but it didn't make any sound when i put compressed air to it. And when I'm driving on WOT, you can hear the turbo spool up normally, then you hear the weird noise about a second later

and the sound seems to be specifically on the driver's side, not from the turbo
 
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/u3Kqh52PC6Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

This is how I made the "tester" (with the exception of the gauge)
 
I had a similar noise from the driver's side and the vacuum line from the fpr had popped off. I doubt that is your issue but it's worth checking that area. I remember mine sounded like a blow off valve on the drivers side that was delayed.
 
Shoulda reved it up a little from under the hood so we couldve heard how it sounded at high rpms.. could possibly be your lifters.. are you low on oil? whats your oil pressure at idle?

Could also be a rod bearing.. can't really tell though, go take a video of you reving it too 2k then to 3k and so on.
 
oil gauge looks ok .. normal ..
but the sounds are really bad ..
Travel by car is not good at all, the car stutters terribly around the 40 mph.
I put new plugs, still same problem.
Instead, the band must have jumped the timing, because timing has changed. Perhaps because of this noise.
In addition to half a year ago +. Middle away by car noises were heard as of a certain rpm ROD KNOK. just like this video.
YouTube - rod knock video

So what am I supposed to understand all this?

By the way the car was quite a while without moving, but what I do not understand, how the noise of these valves came into this situation?
I did not turn the engine a few good months

thanks.
 
That really sounds like collapsed lifters.... best way to tell without dropping the pan is grab a piece of wood and put on end to your ear and to the side of the engine block, then listen to the head... wherever the problem is (whether its the head or the block) it'll help you figure out where the problem is
 
Update: problem resolved, its weird but when I got my ex. manifold broken bolt fixed and new gasket. The weird sound went away. I hope that the real problem and its fixed.
 
hey I was wondering what this ticking or rattling noise coming from my engine could be? I initialy thought the timing belt was gone, but when i pulled the timing belt cover off the belt was is pretty good shape. So I then took off the valve cover and everything was normal and in very great shape. A freind of mine told me that it could be the water pump bearing ticking or rattling or the belt tensioner rattling/ticking. It dosent sound like rod knock....... so if one of you guys could hep me out and maybe narrow it down to what could be casuing this noise that would be great thanks.
 
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