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Need Help Installing a stage 4 XTD Clutch/PP/Flywheel

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4gfun

Supporting VIP
2,009
55
Dec 10, 2007
Ask Me, Virginia
Hello everyone. I am trying to create one thread since I know that I am going to need to install all of this stuff on my own and don't want to create mutliple posts.

The VFAQ was pretty helpful in tearing it all down but kind of stopped when it came time to put it back together.

I guess it didn't count on folks not having a photographic memory and/or having their vehicle down for many months and unable to remember what they did.

Besides, I am going from a Twin Disc Setup to a Single Disc setup so while it is probably easier to figure out I just want to ask lots of questions to avoid having to drop the tranny again which it looks like plenty of posters end up doing. :(

I really want to get this right the first time.

Anyways I will start off with this.

1) Is the Flywheel install supposed to be self explanatory? I put the friction side away from the Engine and there was a hole from the crank dowel that seems to have made it impossible.

2) There is a spacer of some sort that is held in by the flywheel bolts. I put the spacer on the away from the engine side since it didn't have a slot for the crank dowel. I guess this is right?

3) I have read that spacer can be different sizes and I am concerned that the wrong one could have been in there since a PTT clutch was in there before and some of the parts were different e.g. 7 bolt flywheel bolts instead of 6 bolt flywheel bolts. If the spacer is the wrong thickness could I have a problem?

4) How is the pressure plate oriented to the flywheel? I don't want balance problems. I just turned it and turned it until all of the dowels from the flywheel lined up etc but I don't know if it can go multiple ways. There is a weight on the pressure plate as well which has me worried.

5) How on earth does the TOB go on and when does it go on? When I pulled the tranny, it was sitting on some clip on the tranny.

6) Which direction does the clutch disc face? There is a part where the hub points outward and I have faced it away from the engine so far.

Not so sure why I see so many people needing to pull the tranny after doing a clutch install. I certainly don't want to be statistic.

Any other pointers that might have me not pulling the tranny again when I am done?

Thank you for your time.
 
YouTube - Trans & Clutch Part 5 - Install the transmission

:p

Thanks TJC...

The dowel pin on the crank is important for multiple reasons. It needs to be in there. There needs to be something solid to prevent them from being the only think keeping the crank and flywheel from rotating, if not, the flywheel bolts could easily be vibrated loose. The gap tolerance between that pin and the hole are a hundred times tighter than the gap between the flywheel bolt threads, and the flywheel bolt holes. So everything stays in balance when you have the dowel pin, and everything stays bolted on. Those bolts get 95 'lbs. I used red loctite.

If a spacer was supplied with your new flywheel, use that one rather than the factory spacer. It is an important piece that keeps the friction surface the exact distance away from the motor that it needs to be. If your flywheel matches the thickness of the factory part (to the .001"), you still need that spacer because the factory one has it.

Everything else is indeed explained in those videos. You're the reason I made them.
 
Jafro. Im stuck on my tranny job. When we took off the tranny my buddy accidentally moved the gear selector that goes into the tranny. Now i can go into all the gears when my car is off but I can't go into gear when the car is on. Also when I put the car in first gear and start the car, it jumps as if I was push starting the car. My buddy adjusted the height of the gear selector but i'm not sure if that is the problem.
 
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