Yes, it is MUCH easier to do the timing with the engine out of the car, but for most people it's not at all practical. Just leave the engine in and remove the splash guards and you'll be fine.

Yeah you can do it in the car.

Replace the auto tensioner and timing pulleys (OEM parts recommended).

It's also a good time to inspect and replace (if needed) any seals on the front of the motor, including the cap cap seals, crank seal, oil pump seal, etc.

I'd recommend purchasing the special tools from Jayracing or another vendor, as it will save you a ton of time, headache, and bloody knuckles.

Jay Racing Timing Belt Tools Kit [TBTS] - $50.00 : Jay Racing



YouTube - 6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement

YouTube - 6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement Part 2

You can always put a large block on wood on the oil pan so you don't crush it, remove the motor mount and jack it up just enough to make everything accessible. It shouldn't be much more than a 3-4 hour job.

Of course its possible. It's not nearly as hard as people make it sound like. I did this, by myself, with simple hand tools, in 15* weather, laying on 3 inches of ice about 3-4 weeks ago. Just take your time, don't get frustrated and watch the previously posted videos. BTW, make sure you have all of the tools required, or at least understand how to get by without them. This is the video that helped me....
YouTube - DSM Graveyard 4g63 Timing Belt Tutorial

Yes you can. You have to remove the front motor mount to do it so you will need to support the motor while it's out. As someone else said, Use a block of wood and a jack under your car on the oil pan.

Word of advice.. Replace the tensioner!! Unless your 100% sure it's still good. It's a $100 part but if you don't and it's bad it means bent valves and a head job at a minimum. There are several videos and write up on exactly how to do it

The hardest part of the job is getting the timing cover off and on in my opinion. Of course you'll have to remove the motor mount on that side, so I normally support the oil pan with a large block and a hydraulic jack to make things easier.

Here is the link to all the info you will need. It was my first time doing a TB and this is what I followed) While you are in there, please replace the "B" belt. As mentioned above, you will need to remove the motor mount (drivers side) and jack up the motor a few inches.You should be able to get to all of the bolts. (Ratchet wrenches do help) Make sure you read thru this FAQ SEVERAL TIMES so you understand all that is involved BEFORE you start. I followed this and doubled checked everything I did, it all worked out. (The only regret I had was not keeping track of which bolt went in which hole for the timing belt cover...the bolts are different lengths/types.)

I took other DSM'ers advice and bought all MITSU parts (no time to save a few bucks, get Mitsu tentioner, pullys and belts). Not sure of your timeframe, but when I did this maintance to my DSM, I took the opportunity to remove the head and send it for a 'cleaning' and checkup. Just a thought...

Good luck!
Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)

amazing info thanks alot guys !!!! this should be alot better to do now.

jusmx141 said:

The hardest part of the job is getting the timing cover off and on in my opinion. Of course you'll have to remove the motor mount on that side, so I normally support the oil pan with a large block and a hydraulic jack to make things easier.

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This. By far the hardest parts. Also, if you've jacked up the car, removed the wheel, snipped the tbelt and now need to remove "the big bad bolt" you might have to scratch your noggin' for a few before finding a solution.

I couldn't imagine if that had happened to me with the engine out of the car.

Changed mine with the engine in. Slightly Challenging, but not entirely bad.

FlyingEagle posted a great video. Wish I had seen that before doing mine, would have given me a little more clarity and confidence.

You need to work around things, like others have said and support the engine. I used a floor jack with some wood scrap between the jack and the oil and it worked out well.

After I have the tensioner pulley tightened, I pull the grenade pin and it doesn't move at all. I know your suppose to measure but I put the timing cover on and went back to college. I can reinsert the pin without a problem. Should the holes still line up on the tensioner after I remove it?

Boomdeeze said:

After I have the tensioner pulley tightened, I pull the grenade pin and it doesn't move at all. I know your suppose to measure but I put the timing cover on and went back to college. I can reinsert the pin without a problem. Should the holes still line up on the tensioner after I remove it?

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I'm pretty sure that's in spec, but i can't remember exactly.

If it's not in spec, it's got to be close. You shouldn't have a problem.

BigBeans said:

I'm pretty sure that's in spec, but i can't remember exactly.

If it's not in spec, it's got to be close. You shouldn't have a problem.

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Ok, im just saying this because I dont use that special tool so I dont get to see the torque specs while doing it.

If you have a problem getting the crank shaft pulley off because you cut off the belt you can have a friend turn one way with a chain pulley and you another with a breaker bar, if it still refuses to let go get something to extend the bar. Remember doing a quick smack is more likely to break it loose. I'd start off smacking the breaker bar with a mallet or something that wont ruin your breaker bar, if your breaker bar isn't a POS a hammer would be fine, if its made cheaply I'd use a rubber mallet.

snipped the tbelt

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..in which isn't too bad since all the valves are suddenly closed due to the valve springs pushing on the lobes with rotating and locking the two cam shafts to allow this to happen.

Easy way to test if all valves are closed if you can rotate the two cam sprockets a bit by hand with no resistance..

...then take the plugs out and you can turn the crank with no compression problems ...


Too bad that the 4G63 T-belt cover couldn't be a two piece like the 4G37 where that one is a breeze to remove....

Just the trick to get it around those exposed studs on both removal and putting it back on ...

buy a chilton....

Boomdeeze said:

After I have the tensioner pulley tightened, I pull the grenade pin and it doesn't move at all. I know your suppose to measure but I put the timing cover on and went back to college. I can reinsert the pin without a problem. Should the holes still line up on the tensioner after I remove it?

Click to expand...

You're golden.