So I started to install the new FP green on my friends Colt and i have noticed a little problem.

As you see the comp outlet is right above the engine mount. The car has a 1g 2.0L engine.

Any suggestions are welcome. Would the same problem occur with 1g fwd car?

The 1G FWD crossmember is lower and the roll stop mount is closer to the block than in your example.

Here's a HX40 mounted to a 1G FWD- you can see the compressor outlet would be nowhere near hitting the mount even if the cover was clocked further downward:



Looks to me like you'll need to have some material trimmed from the outlet and have a 2" elbow welded in place with the direction of the discharge facing your intercooler piping....OR you can try to find a 1G FWD block mount and attempt to move that roll stop closer to the engine block to gain the clearance necessary to make this setup functional.

Im not sure about an FP Green, but many turbos allow the compressor cover to be loosened and turned. Seems to me that if the compressor cover on this turbo is held in place by plates on the backside, that you should be able to loosen the bolts holding the plates tight, turn the compressor cover counter clockwise to achieve your desired clearance, and tighten the comp cover back down. You may have to remove the turbo to do this, but its worth a shot, especially since your radiator is so small that you should have plenty of room for a 90 degree coupler, provided the comp cover can be clocked

The comp cover can't be clocked because of the internal wastegate, also the comp cover is held by circ clip and not bolts?. I can prop clock the cover but the wastegate would have to go. Cutting the comp outlet is also not an option because of the way its casted there is only about 1 inch that could be cut. Maybe external w/g is the only way to go and then clock the housing over.

Hmmm. So the WGA is bolted to the backside of the comp cover? The clip makes sense, because this may be a Mitsu center section, modified to accept the larger intake and exhaust wheels. Well, I know that theres probably a locator pin on the center section then, which determines the proper location for the comp cover (there should be a notch cut in the comp cover to accept the pin), however, perhaps you could take off the cover and pull the pin out, allowing the cover to be turned, then make an adapter plate, whichll bolt to where the wga was, then cut holes in your plate which will allow the wga to be bolted to its original angle, so to speak. Perhaps JUS can comment??

paul s said:

Maybe external w/g is the only way to go and then clock the housing over.

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I would modify the bracket and move the roll stop closer to the block before I'd do anything else. Even if you have to weld the roll stop to the crossmember in a different location, it's still less costly and much easier than going externally gated.

kchaazz said:

The clip makes sense, because this may be a Mitsu center section, modified to accept the larger intake and exhaust wheels.

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That's pretty much been the definition of a FP DSM Green for the past 10 years or so.

kchaazz said:

Well, I know that theres probably a locator pin on the center section then, which determines the proper location for the comp cover (there should be a notch cut in the comp cover to accept the pin)

Click to expand...

Not on 20G covers.

If he clocks the cover the only way he'll be able to re-mount the wastegate actuator bracket is to drill and tap new holes in the back of the cover "x" amount of degrees from the original cover position to retain actuator functionality. This means the existing holes will also need plugged / welded shut.

custom manifold that off sets the turbo more towards the passenger side. then you would have to comp for the radiator hose. i actually have a tubular manifold that does this and am not going to use it. send me a pm if interested i have pics on my phone

Its not my car so i have to talk to my friend.

I would personally just cut the cover and weld a elbow problem solved. Vibrant Performance ::.