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Help- 0 compression on all 4cyl after turbo/fmic swap

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DDGDSM

10+ Year Contributor
214
0
Aug 16, 2008
Hampton, Virginia
Hey guys hows it going? Ive run into a rather strange issue with upgrading my 1g dsm that i cant seem to figure out. To start everything off ill give you all the info so i dont leave to many blank spots. I started off this whole process when i was running an fp evo3 tubular mani, tubular o2 housing, RC 550's, 190 fuel pump, BC 272's, 2g maf,arp head studs, safc, pieced together fmic kit, greddy bov, sotck radiator and stock fan. I checked my compression and it was 150 across the board, and i made sure the timing was set at 5 btdc about a week prior to starting this upgrade. I had a boost leak that i had fixed about the same time i verified the timing. I drove the car the final week at 16psi and then parked it to begin the transformation.

I got the precision turbo deal from MAP's sale with the 6262, dark mani, precision gate and dump tube, ss feed and return lines. I got dsm link v3(programmed for the other supporting mods i baught), 1050cc fic injectors, walbro 255 hp, fp 4" intake, afpr, fuel pressure gauge, had a hand built fmic kit made, brand new tial q bov, new aluminum radiator with dual slim fans mounted as pushers. All of these things were installed and connected accordingly with exception of the afpr and fuel pressure gauge becaus ei havent recieved them yet, but as i double checked that 2g maf was selected in link and the proper injectors as well. Upon initial startup it woulnt fire up at all. I did some testing and the cas is still good to go(marked it then pulled it to spin it and make sure m getting spark. Fuel is getting to the rail like needed when i turn the CAS, as well as spark. So i decided to hook a compression gauge up and im getting 0 compression across all 4 cylinders. The car has not been started between when i starting taking it apart and now. Timing belt is still on and spinning like normal. Ive tried putting a cap full of oil down on top of each piston to see if it had something to do with the rings but that didnt yield any results. It still has 0 compression across the board. It just spins and spins.

Im about flat out of ideas now. Because i dont know how i can lose compression to all 4 cylinders when the car sat still for a month and was never started. I just recently came back off of a 7 month deployment and she sat the entire time and started up 3 sec's into the first turn of the key. I drove the car daily other then deployments since I baught it and the only issue i had was a CAS going bad. So any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. I apologize if this is in the wrong section but it seems like the problem im having is somewhere in the head or block. Again Thanks in advance.
 
First thing you should check is to verify your mechanical timing is still correct.
 
Im on duty today so i cant leave the ship i plan on pulling the timing cover off tommorow and giving everything a good lookover. I just found it to be pretty strange for sumthing like this to happen randomly since the tming belt and everything was nice and tight and the car wasnt turned over or ne thing while it was shut down.
 
0 compresion - you have something wide open to the atmosphere or timing WAY off.

Since you replaced injectors I would check to make sure they are sealed.

It sure seems like with the plugs in a cranking you would hear pressure escaping somewhere.
 
installed brand new injector seals when the new 1050's went in. Until tommorow its just been me so i cant be under the hoo dan din the car but i got a little trigger to hook to the starter to start it that way so i can be under the hood at the same time im cranking it over. Pulled the VC off and i cant see any valves being stuck open or ne thing so im gonna double check timing first then go from there.
 
Get a socket wrench out and turn the engine over by hand and try to pinpoint a leak. If timing is off that far to make 0 compression wouldnt he be contacting valve heads? Im with gorf tho, my moneys on injector seals
 
damn, i was slow at posting. LOL. Theres only five spots to lose compression, rings, valves, plugs, headgasket, and injectors. The inectors are the only thing you changed in that respect correct?
 
It sounds like one of your cams is timed 180* out. Which wouldnt bend valves... but it would open the intake and exhaust cams at the same time.
 
Injector seals could cause a boost leak but not 0 compression. The intake valves are between the injectors and combustion chamber.

I would bet on timing being the culprit here.
 
Injector seals have nothing to do with compression. In fact, if you only swapped the turbo and mani, injectors, pump, radiator, etc, nothing you touched will affect compression.

You didn't touch the timing assembly, head gasket, cams, or anything internal engine since the car last ran did you?

Why do you have to be under the hood while doing a compression test? The tester should hold peak pressure until you release it.
 
Another thought.
Is the compression tester working? Is it holding the peak pressure or just falling off to 0psi after your finished cranking the engine? If timing is correct I would try a differant tester just to be sure.
 
Injector seals have nothing to do with compression. In fact, if you only swapped the turbo and mani, injectors, pump, radiator, etc, nothing you touched will affect compression.

You didn't touch the timing assembly, head gasket, cams, or anything internal engine since the car last ran did you?

Why do you have to be under the hood while doing a compression test? The tester should hold peak pressure until you release it.

Thats what im saying. Nothing i replaced or touched would have effected compression at all. The motor was spun at all( to my knowledge) since it last ran perfectly fine. It was trailored to the shop to have the fmic fabbed up and trailored back. there was no fuel pump installed the entire time so it couldnt have been started. Well i hooked the current compression tester to my wifes car and it worked just fine bt on emine it wont even build any type of compression But I borrowed a 2nd compression tester thats known to be good from a friend and I will try that tommorow. After i double check timing.
 
Here is my guess. Air must come through intake manifold to be compressed. Could something be in the intercooler piping blocking airflow?
 
Pulled the timing covers off today. Somehow immediately upon the first startup of the month the timing had jumped and was off enough to cause no compression. I took car of that so i now have compression again but its still noit starting. gotta trace out the fuel and spark to see what the issue is..
 
Glad you found your issue. Since you said the CAS was bad when you had it last, did you replace it and if so, did you install it on properly? If it's 180 out it will not flow fuel or spark to the proper cylinders at the appropriate time.

If that is right, then I would test to verify the pump works by turning it on and then test the coil pack.
 
Injector seals have nothing to do with compression. In fact, if you only swapped the turbo and mani, injectors, pump, radiator, etc, nothing you touched will affect compression.

You didn't touch the timing assembly, head gasket, cams, or anything internal engine since the car last ran did you?

Why do you have to be under the hood while doing a compression test? The tester should hold peak pressure until you release it.

Really... take your injectors out and tell me how much compression you get.
 
Really... take your injectors out and tell me how much compression you get.

Lol 210 PSI. The injectors and the hole machined into the head are not linked to the combustion chamber at all, they have no effect for compression checks. As said above with out the seals all you will have is a boost leak.
 
Really... take your injectors out and tell me how much compression you get.

The only way that would effect compression is if the injectors fire directly into the cylinder. Very few cars have that sort of fuel injection system. Our cars inject fuel into the intake runners just before the valves. So the valve would stop any air from escaping on the compression stroke. The injectors can however be a source for boost leak.
 
Lol. Think about it. How is that little rubber seal going to keep the cylinder pressure in? The tips of the injectors would never hold up to that. Also the injector would have to be held closed against the cylinder firing.
 
Well i put the motor at TDC pulled the cas out and lined it up where the notch on the cas is lined it up so that the notch is eating the little ball like indention on the cas. Still nothing. It takes about 4 secs of spinning the cas before fuel comes to the fuel rail. I pulled the line off the end of the rail and spun the cas, made a little video just gotta upload it.
 
Is it providing spark when you spin the CAS with the key on? You could potentially have a bad seal on the pump if it's taking that long for fuel to reach the rail. You wouldn't happen to have changed out the fuel filter by chance at all have you? It's a long shot but a clogged up filter would limit the amount of fuel flow and if it's bad enough it could be building up quickly behind the filter but unable to pass through it right away.
 
Bout to leave now to get a new tensioner, t belt and fuel filter all at once. The 255hp pump is brand new and i got the install kit with it to.
 
IF you don't have line wrenches, you will want them for the filter if it's the stocker. It's honestly a real PITA and I just decided to get an aftermarket one with AN line so I wouldn't have to deal with the hassle. Good luck and report your findings.
 
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