if you get a new fuel pump like a walbro255 you need a fuel pressure regulator and i suggest getting a boost controller and guage. all your other mods sound good. what are your plans for things like suspension and interior. i think short shifter make a car much more fun to drive but people tend to overlook them.

Since you are turbo an exhaust system will make a larger difference than on an N/T so it is a good thing you are getting one.
but also injectors are not too terribly expensive.
Plus if your upgrade your stock hosing for the turbo system to a better metal system that will help keep better pressure and allow for more boost either now or later.
and those NGK sparkplug want add power (well like .5 hp if your lucky) but they will help burn better so those are a good thing to get if you will be running it hard at all.

hope this helps......

short shifter is a good idea, I didn't think about it either...

Tuning device, wideband, logger, dsmlink first mods.

i would say first thing is maintenance, then a boost gauge and boost controller, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump, port the turbo...exhaust..turbo back

Since you have the filter, hard pipe wont do much besides sound faster. Wideband,logger, and a real boost gauge would be a smart first buy. On a budget you can buy a mbc and rewire your stock fuel pump. That should let you turn the boost up to about 20psi. It will be a totally different animal then, low 13's easy.

After that you can get into the tuning and clean up the stock maps. Tuning wont be worth the effort or money untill atleast those above mods are done. As far as tuning goes there are many many options, i prefer
DS-MAP - Index

Great free tuning software, as capable as anything out there.

Something else to get you started
Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

h2rsturbo said:

i would say first thing is maintenance! then a boost gauge and boost controller, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump, port the turbo...exhaust..turbo back

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Yes this is good right here, start out first with maintenance, before doing anything at all, make sure you replace all the gasket that you know that might not have been replaced, timing belt, check it, it is very easy to check for cracks and any type of wear on it, so take a couple of good minutes to check it, also, make sure you get all of your fluids change, manual trans very easy drain and fill basically, not expensive at all to do maintenace, unless you get into head gasket, and timing belt which are the most in depth things to do.
for suspension, if this is not yoru daily driven vehicle, try doing as many bushings as possible,( i did it), is not hard if you can have a shop press everything out, and maybe 2 or 3 pressed back in, if you get any poly bushings which i recommend, if your not crazy abotu spending lots of money. but suspension is important so you do get stuck anywhere because something came off, check for rust, if any moving parts have rust try replacing ASAP, very important, you can find used parts in almost new condition for suspension taht might just need a bushing to be replaced, and there you go put a good poly bushing on there, , it took me about a week, (honestly), to do all teh suspension on my car when i first got it, but i took my time 100% to do it, i work in a shop and i did everythign my self at home thou, i bro the parts to work and pressed everything off with our machine, but fo ryou it shouldnt be expensinve to get it pressed off, am pretty sure u get along with shop owner (all DSMers) do , and yea dotn forget, before anything, do maintenance FIRST, you dont want to go back after you put all of your aftermarket stuff on and having to go back to see where a leak or something loose is messed up, if your doign everything your self, (like me), remember is yoru car, your project, TORQUE everything, look on mitsus specs and see whats the torque specs, not everyone does it, but i do, and remember in teh future wether is you or not when you go take that part out again it will be so much easier(because it was torqued). buy your self a little torque wrench and a long one, well if the little on comes with 8ft lbs to 200ft lbs then thats all you need, you most likely wont your 200ftlbs, the highest you'll probably go is 140 or so i think i dont remember what part of the suspension was it that i torque that high but yes get tou rself you.. GOOD LUCK!

try this link:
Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

it will help alot with basic and highend stuff.. i follow this techguides alot, very helpful.

sadly i forgot to mention that my car is an automatic.... ='(
i have done alot of maintenance to the car and i need to do the trans fluid. uhm suspension wise i just put new control arms and sway links. need to go and get an alignment. i also have an ams manual boost controller and a boost gauge somewhere around my garage..... hmm just replaced the belts last month and they're all fine. i also have a aem digital wideband sitting around with the boost controller and boost gauge. i actually just found an eprom ecu just sitting around with my stuff.... funny i dont remember buying it oh well .....
hmm i guess the next thing to do is the trans fluid

Thank you my Dsm Friends! you were very helpful!

Eagle9119 said:

sadly i forgot to mention that my car is an automatic.... ='(
i have done alot of maintenance to the car and i need to do the trans fluid. uhm suspension wise i just put new control arms and sway links. need to go and get an alignment. i also have an ams manual boost controller and a boost gauge somewhere around my garage..... hmm just replaced the belts last month and they're all fine. i also have a aem digital wideband sitting around with the boost controller and boost gauge. i actually just found an eprom ecu just sitting around with my stuff.... funny i dont remember buying it oh well .....
hmm i guess the next thing to do is the trans fluid

Thank you my Dsm Friends! you were very helpful!

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hey buddy, there is nothing wrong with having an automatic.

but yea keep it up, just make sure you do everything right the first time, so you wont have to go back to it later because of a mistake. ok

Good Luck

Murcielago

so i was just looking at the walbro255 fuel pump on this website and i saw a high pressure 255 and just a walbro255 they are the same price.... whats so different about them?

ones HP other is LPH. i have the 255 LPH in my car. Id recomend intake, full exhaust, some way to log and wideband, MBC. and you can turn the boost up a bit to ###### 16ish.

now maybe it's me, but i kinda read in between the lines here. you want more hp at a low cost. the way i see it. you should be able to do the spark plugs and wires, change the intake and maf, and put on an exhaust, put on a different bov and upper (and lower) intercooler piping without needing anything else. of course, a boost gauge and a wideband are always a great idea to have..but if you did those few things..wudnt really need it IMMEDIATELY

but changing the fuel pump, injectors, turbo, or intercooler, you ARE going to need those 2 gauges, especially the wideband to monitor how the car is running. before you can do any of that, gotta do the maintenance....the timing belt check, water pump, pullies, etc.

jed344 said:

ones HP other is LPH. i have the 255 LPH in my car. Id recomend intake, full exhaust, some way to log and wideband, MBC. and you can turn the boost up a bit to ###### 16ish.

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You can run nearly 20lbs on stock rewired fuel pump. With a 14b that is.

Auto means you have a 13b on there, which the exhaust that you are picking up will over do it. I'd suggest picking up a 14b from one of the local guys and port the living crap out of it. As far as the fuel pump that all depends on your goals. You can run a 190 walbro without an aftermarket fpr. I'd invest in a set of 550-560 injectors and a safc. That combo with the 14b can make a pretty fun car. All of the parts mentioned could be picked up used for great deals locally if you look around. Good luck with your project!

91stocker said:

You can run nearly 20lbs on stock rewired fuel pump. With a 14b that is.

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using RRE Instructions and linearly interpolating (not 100% accurate) to 20psi, you can flow roughly 89 ltr/hr at 20psi.

89 ltr/hr * 1000cc/1ltr * 1 hr/60 min = 1483cc/min
450cc/min (stock injectors) * 0.8 (80% duty cycle) * 4 injectors = 1440cc

...so you'd really be pushing it at 20 psi on a stock 1G pump.

way back when, I maxed out my 450cc injectors on my 1g talon at around 12 psi (IIRC), but then I had a reasonable list of other supporting mods and might have been on a evo iii 16g at that point. my main point is airflow in/out is more of a concern than psi ran when it comes to injectors and fuel pump.

Yeah, A/T is just as good as M/T. No worries...

Eagle9119 - Please locate and utilize the SHIFT key. Thanks.

I'd take advantage of the potential to move more air/exhaust and cam it for sure, then I'd probably look at upgrading the turbo slightly (remember not to try to go over 450ish hp with stock internals). Maybe pick up a coil on plug kit for it...and do some little things like balance shaft removal and a/c delete.

BTW...I have a B&M Short throw shifter...I HATE it like it raped my mother. You lose all the engagement feeling from the shifter...so I find myself "thinking" I stuck second...but in all reality...I'm in synchro limbo somewhere between neutral and second...you know...just enough to hear it shave the top 1/100th of an inch off my gears but not enough to actually grab.

JasonStern said:

using RRE Instructions and linearly interpolating (not 100% accurate) to 20psi, you can flow roughly 89 ltr/hr at 20psi.

89 ltr/hr * 1000cc/1ltr * 1 hr/60 min = 1483cc/min
450cc/min (stock injectors) * 0.8 (80% duty cycle) * 4 injectors = 1440cc

...so you'd really be pushing it at 20 psi on a stock 1G pump.

way back when, I maxed out my 450cc injectors on my 1g talon at around 12 psi (IIRC), but then I had a reasonable list of other supporting mods and might have been on a evo iii 16g at that point. my main point is airflow in/out is more of a concern than psi ran when it comes to injectors and fuel pump.

Click to expand...

Yea sorry the rest of my message got cut off. I was saying nearly 20lbs on the pump. At 100% idc you can push the injectors to closer to 22lbs. Unless hes planning on a turbo upgrade the stock fuel system is almost adequate. Since 22lbs is maxing the 14b anyway. Just a hot air pump after that.